Quote from: DomOne of my diaphragms is a little little bigger than the indentation, so I have to place the cover over it and shimmy it a little bit so the flange seats in the groove.  

What is a slide?  Is that the plastic part of the diaphragm?

Do the #40 pilots have 4 holes drilled in the sides?

No longer leaking with petcock to prime.

40's with side holes = wrong..... no side holes 40 is right ...else it be too rich...
Diaphragm 1 bigger --- ok that's a bit fishy ... they do swell with soaking in cleaner ... but both should be bigger ... just 1... anyway if you get it seated right... that's OK ... no holes in either and slides go up and down fine right ...
Cool.
Srinath.

I asked them about the #40 pilots when I bought them, but they insisted that they were the right thing.  That might be the problem.  I think the seat on of of my float needles might be suspect as well.  I remember it not seating perfectly upon installation, but isn't it held down by the float armature?

I don't know if this makes a difference, but I see that noticing detail is important sometimes.  I tried starting the motor a few times without a filter and I noticed that there was a fine spray or mist coming out of my right carb after another unsuccessful attempt.  That mist is good, is it not?  Maybe I should check the left carb.  Well, I know I should check them both.

Srinath, do you think that the pilots could possibly be the sole source of my problems?  That would be nice. :mrgreen:

Pilots are under 2K ... starting and take off usually ... Typically holes on the sides will make it richer ~1 size ... and he bike will start and idle beautifully but as it gets hotter ... it starts to crap out, wants to stall and is near impossible to take off from a stop without stalling it.
Mist from carbs is normal... but usually both... if not... yours are out of synch .. you can eyeball synch it ... take off carbs and loot at some daylight from the filter side ... and you can fiddle with the synch screw till you get the same daylight under both butterflies. ... BTW you can adjust the idle screw and set it to give you the tiniest sliver of light ... and then adjust the synch.
Let me know what all the symptoms are ...you got RU 2970 pod instead of airbox and the slip on right... not a K&N in airbox... that will be 127.5 if its in airbox.
Cool.
Srinath.

I have pods, one K&N on each carb.  They are just something I had that fit.  But I don't think it should matter all that much what they are, any K&N's back there are going to produce similar effects, right?

To be honest, I don't even know if my hoses are right.  I know that my two fuel hoses off the tank are switched, but it starts up all the same.  The small hose from the left carb goes to the far right point on the petcock.  The t fitting off the bottom of the carbs goes to the middle front point on the petcock.  And that's all that matters I think,  every other hose goes nowhere.

Srinath, I'm seriously considering fed-exing them to you next day air tomorrow morning.  I'll eff around with it tomorrow, get the other pilots and some new plugs, but if I can't make this baby happen tomorrow  I'm throwing in the towel.

K send it ... if I do nohting ... I fiddle with floats etc no biggie ... its free ... harder stuff like drilling out plugs and stuff is what i charge $$ ... free just pay shipping $$ ... damn I am going broke shipping stuff ... OK OK y'all paid for it but dammit its expensive ... and screw USPS ... its a bit more $$$ in most cases than UPS ... but it was fast to you DOM, but others are still waiting ... and they were closer.
BTW your filters are = the RU 2970 so 150 is fine for mains, the hoses seem to be right ... The T fitting to middle in the frame petcock you mean the T in the back and bottom of the carbs right ... not the front or top ... and BTW you have the tank petcock open the screwdriver slot should be vertical... not horizontal ... now what do you have swapped around ... the frame to tank ... then prime will connect main and carbs wihtout vacuum,and on will connect reserve to carbs when there is vacuum, and reserve will connect the main tank to carbs when there is vacuum ... crap .. you may have a vapor lock in tank as well ...
Cool.
Srinath.

Dom,
Seriously, the fuel hoses need to be run properly or the bike will run like crap.  If the hoses are switched around, nothing will work properly.  It may start and run now, but you may have no reserve when you need it.  Look at this link for hose routing, probably the best I have seen.
http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=showMyPhoto&albumID=209902436&photoID=220222792&security=JCsHRn

Ignore all the hoses that connect to the canister, California emission models only

Well, I went back to the dealer and they said that he pilots, the short ones with the eight holes drilled in the sides were all they had.  Even the stock ones that they had looked like that.

So I bought some clear hose to do the float bowl test and also to switch out all my fuel lines so I can actually see what the hell is going on, vapor lock etc.

Wish me luck.  I'm just going to pull everything apart, sight synch the carbs, and put em back together.

I switched out all the hoses to clear tube, so now I can see that there is actually fuel going into the bottom t fitting on the carbs.

I replaced the eight hole pilots(#40) with the stock ones and now I can get it to start at all.  

I checked for a sticky float needle, their both fine.  

I checked for any holes in the diaphragm, and can't see any holes.

Checked for good movement everywhere and I can't see any problems whatsoever.

Synched the carbs by sight and can see just a sliver of daylight thru both carbs.

I switched the hoses and the tank both ways and can't get it to start with them in either position.


Any Ideas?

I thought it was bad spark plugs because I put in some other ones, not new, and she started right up and purred like a big bad kitten.  

So I take her for a ride, get about two blocks and I have complete acceleration and then I stop at a stop sign and she's totally flooded. So I limp home.

Now she won't start again.

Maybe did it start up cause I gave the cylinders some air when I changed the spark plugs?

Performed float bowl U-hose test and both read very low on the float cover.

Ok, so I got the bike to a point where it'll start up and idle, but still is waaaaay groggy and feels like I am trying to ride around in 3rd gear.

Float bowl tests show level to be a good 15mm below the low part of the gasket.  Ugh.

U think I should switch to two #4 washers per carb?

Quote from: DomOk, so I got the bike to a point where it'll start up and idle, but still is waaaaay groggy and feels like I am trying to ride around in 3rd gear.

Float bowl tests show level to be a good 15mm below the low part of the gasket.  Ugh.

15 mm below gasket... OK I set them right at the gasket level ... IMHO .... really surprised it even ran ... set it to the top of bowl... else you will not get it to run right ... ever. BTW you might have fuel supply/flow issues ... I doubt if it can even be set that low ... you testing in prime ... I mean real prime...since your hoses are off.
Cool.
Srinath.

Yeah, I tested it in prime.  I'v spilled so much gas though there might not be enough downward pressure from my tank to get fuel into the carbs now.  Argh.  If I send you my carbs is there any guarantee they will work if I put them on my bike?  Maybe I'll send you the filters too.

OK send it ...and why dont you let it run a few mins before giving throttle ... and you sure your frame and tank petcocks are flowing right ... If I dont spot anything wrong with it then ... OK I can run it on my bike. cos I have the same setup... however I'll charge you $50 for that ...else it be most likely free ... and If I run it on mine and it works ...then you can be sure its good ... and if there is a problem its somewhere else ... Oh BTW you got no hole pilots in 40 in it ... else the holed one = low end trouble...
Cool.
Srinath.

Naw I pulled out the #40s with holes and put the stock pilots back in.  I'm sure it was sufficiently warm...gave it a good 10 minutes to warm up before I gassed it.  

I'm going to try the coolant container trick tonite and mess with the floats some more...

Biggest pain was that I would get it to run and sound fine so I would put everything back on and go for a ride and it would poop out when I got two blocks away...and the battery is long dead by now so I would have to push it back every time.  ugh...

I switched everything to 1/4" fuel hose...problematic?

I think I'm experiencing starvation issues.  

I start it up after priming, let it run until it's warm, then I really lay on the throttle and rev it out then I see through the clear tubing that little bubbles are forming behind the lower T fitting.  I can hear/see that it's starving so I re-prime it while the bike is running, just until I see that the bubbles go away and the hose is full...  This would cause me to think that maybe my floats arent filling up fast enough.  Could it be because I used 1/4" tubing?  Should I run a hose straight to the carb from the tank?...it seems that that would clear it up.

The tube:

The most aspirated GS ever...

Quote from: Dommaybe my floats arent filling up fast enough. Could it be because I used 1/4" tubing? Should I run a hose straight to the carb from the tank?...it seems that that would clear it up.

I don't think the 1/4" tubing is insufficient, but I could be wrong. :dunno:

It should be pretty easy to run the REServe hose from the longer (forward) outlet tube on the tank-mounted petcock to the carbs.  Just use that handy clamp in the photos to "cap" the ON hose temporarily.  Do something similar to cap the vacuum hose going from the ON/RES/PRI petcock to the left carb.  (BTW, that hose doesn' t seem to be pushed all the way onto the petcock -- is it?)

Since you've got clear hoses, let us know what results you get.  I was going to "theorize" about how in the world you could get air bubbles at that particular spot, but I'll hold off until you report back.

Kerry, please theorize, I insist.  :mrgreen: Ideally I don't want to mount the tank again, but let me understand you correctly; you are saying to clamp off the ON hose, run the temp tank to the RES hose, switch the frame petcock to RES, clamp the vaccuum hose and see what happens? .

The only thing I havn't tried, which I will tomorrow night, is running my temp tank straight to the carbs.  Then, if any bubbling happens, I know that the carb is somehow creating back pressure, which I have no idea of how to remedy.

BTW my floats are dead on the gasket...well, at least the meniscus is...will that suffice..is a mm or so +/- ok?