Hey all,

I've got some clanking that I'm relatively sure is my camchain tensioner.  The previous owner said that the clanking was because of a weak spring in the adjuster and that everytime he fixed it the clanking went away.  Thing is, he "fixed it" by simply winding the spring (twisting it to add another coil and putting it back in), from what I understood.  But this seems kinda risky, considering the spring will eventually break from fatigue.

So my questions are:

1. Is replacing it necessary or should I just wind the spring?

2. Should I replace the whole adjuster assembly (~$50) or just the spring?  If just the spring, where can I get it? (fiche doesn't have it)

3.  How "urgent" is a repair like this?  Should I stay off till I fix it?  

Thanks.

-Sanjay

get yourself an ( a.p.e. manual camchain tensioner ) part no st750gx, from w.w.w.aperaceparts.com ,they are in the u.s.a. cost you about 50$. i,ve got the same prob, so i,ve sent for one , everything i,ve read about this item  is good

I got the same clanking about a year ago, so I replaced it with another Suzuki one, which seemed to get rid of the noise.  The clanking is back.  Let me know how the manual one works before I drop another $50!   :mrgreen:   I'm also curious about how hard you are supposed to crank down on that bolt.

see this thread...
http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12848

The installation is simple and it comes with instructions.

MIne clunked at 22K, I wound it and proceeded to thrash it for 22K more as a reward ... and it's not clunked since ... guess its up for another 22K ... Wind it... the Gs isn't the best suited for the ape... CCT in center of motor under carbs ... bleeeehhh
Cool.
Srinath.

Winding it is, then.  So you don't think it'll fail after being wound?  I don't want to shell out $50 if I don't have to, but then again I don't want to shell out a lot more later for fixing bent valves and the like - the classic maintenance conundrum.

-Sanjay

I'd worry about it when the motor stops running, if I remember correctly the motor has enough clearance as long as the valves are adjusted right that the pistons can be at TDC and the valves will still clear.  untill someone proves me wrong, just give that spring another wind and don't worry about it.

by winding it do you mean removing rubber bung from back of c.c.t. and turning screw inside clockwise to take up slack if so how much do you turn it,( if not what do you mean by winding it.) :dunno:

If I understand the instr4uctions right he Suzuki CCT is a one-way only job. By itself it will only go tighter. You can manually loosen it (necessary when you have slackened the CC by removing camshafts.

I can't comment on the safety of rewinding the spring, but I can assure you that if it breaks you may be in for expensive repairs.  The cam chain tensioner spring on my '90 broke a couple of years ago.  As a result, the cam chain skipped a tooth on the cam and my exhaust valves got bent.  I think the skipping happened on startup which minimized the damage.  I didn't have damage to the pistons or cylinders which likely would have been the case if it skipped at speed.

The cam chain tensioner on this bike, at least on early models (and Suzuki's in general) is a known weak point.  If you're pretty sure yours isn't right, I'd replace it with a new one.

Quote from: MarkBI can't comment on the safety of rewinding the spring, but I can assure you that if it breaks you may be in for expensive repairs.  The cam chain tensioner spring on my '90 broke a couple of years ago.  As a result, the cam chain skipped a tooth on the cam and my exhaust valves got bent.  I think the skipping happened on startup which minimized the damage.  I didn't have damage to the pistons or cylinders which likely would have been the case if it skipped at speed.

The cam chain tensioner on this bike, at least on early models (and Suzuki's in general) is a known weak point.  If you're pretty sure yours isn't right, I'd replace it with a new one.

OK the spring is all you should re wind ... the mechanism etc is pretty much off limits ... spring breaking wont hurt ... will start getting noisy as the tensioner stops tensioning ... The failure of the plunger rod and the outer body = disaster ... In mine the spring was loose from its anchor on the outer wall ... I reanchored it with a copper wire piece ... and its not comming loose now ...
Cool.
Srinath.

Right this spring tightening thing.
How would I go about doing that then?
I think my cam chain may be loose.
I can hear a high speed rattle from the cylinder head area that
varies with revs. It sounds kinda like a chain.

so I guess the questions are
1) how do I tell if my cam chain is loose (preferaby not involving bending the valves)?
2) how do I make the auto tensioner work like it's supposed to?

Quote from: red_phil1) how do I tell if my cam chain is loose (preferaby not involving bending the valves)?

* Remove the fuel tank
* Remove the front 2 bolts on the breather cover (on top of the valve cover)
* Remove the valve cover (may require detaching the choke and throttle cables)
* Push down on the middle of the chain run between the camshafts with your finger.  It should not deflect very much at all.
* If you want some more "data": Put the bike on the centerstand, shift into 6th gear, and turn the rear wheel by hand.  Turn it in the usual direction - just a little - and check the camchain tension.  Then turn it in the reverse direction and check again.  Are you able to detect any extra slack?

Quote from: red_phil2) how do I make the auto tensioner work like it's supposed to?

Other than "tightening" it, the only solution I know of is to replace it.

BTW, I assume that the noises you are hearing are NOT valves ticking?  I would think that a loose camchain would go quiet as you rev the engine, and then rattle as you let up.  But I could be wrong!

The test I have written about in the past is ...
Put the bike in gear and take off the valve cover and spark plugs ... and look at the section of cam chain between the cam sprokets as you are turning the back wheel ... if that ever flops or sags ...  bingo cam chain tensioner is kaput.
Cool.
Srinath.

Hey ... that's what _I_ said!

Well OK, I forgot to mention removing the spark plugs.  

Thanks, I'll have a look at the camchai sometime soon (christmas permitting) and check the valve clearances while I'm in there.

If the chain is lacking tension, how do you tighten the
cam chain tensioner?

Quote from: KerryHey ... that's what _I_ said!

Well OK, I forgot to mention removing the spark plugs.  

Oh well I know that ... but I usually dont read to the bottom ... OK OK  should ...  :lol: See the problem and start posting ...
Cool.
Srinath.

Quote from: red_philIf the chain is lacking tension, how do you tighten the cam chain tensioner?

I have never even removed my camchain tensioner, so I don't have personal experience with "rewinding" the spring.  But if you can figure out how to do it by looking at it and thinking about what folks on here have said, it would make for a great photographic "How To".  (Hint, hint!)  I only mention this because I know you have a digital camera....

Meanwhile, I think you (meaning we) could do with some more complete written instructions.  Anyone?

I think I could do that.
But it might have to wait till after christmas,
I have things to wrap.