I printed it out though.  Thanks for posting.  I didn't wanna sound un-appreciative.

Yes, great diagram. Wouldn't it be nice if it was animated to show the current flowing through the wires and components.

Quote from: mrblink.....
Ed - I hear ya.  The whole circuit seems a little too complicated to eliminate it.  If there is a way to do it, I would LOVE to hear it.  Anyone??

The circuit is obviously there to protect you and the manufacturer.
So it would be unconscionable to suggest that a short piece of wire with a flat 1/4 inch male connector on each end could be plugged into the relay socket at an orange wire and the other end at the orange-blue wire, then protected with the rubber relay cover.

Just don't sell the bike without restoring the relay.

Thanks for the unsupported, non-recommended, hypothetical step-by-step.  That will tell me whether or not that actual relay is the culprit or not.  If so, I'll order another relay ASAP.

I was just looking at the beautiful, full color wiring diagram that Kerry posted.  There are two "orange" wires on one side of the connector.  Hypothetically speaking, would it be the orange wire directly opposite the green wire, or opposite the orange/blue wire?

It doesn't matter.  They are both 12V when the ignition switch is on.

Oh yea that has been bypassed with the same method that John bates didn't suggest ... dont see whyyou'd need a new relay, bypass it and be done with it ... OK if you must ... put a big chunk of a car tire on the stabd somehow ... that should stuck out below the stand... honda's use that mechanism ... hits the ground first and take the stand up...
Cool.
Srinath.

Quote from: John Bates

Quote from: mrblink.....
Ed - I hear ya.  The whole circuit seems a little too complicated to eliminate it.  If there is a way to do it, I would LOVE to hear it.  Anyone??

The circuit is obviously there to protect you and the manufacturer.
So it would be unconscionable to suggest that a short piece of wire with a flat 1/4 inch male connector on each end could be plugged into the relay socket at an orange wire and the other end at the orange-blue wire, then protected with the rubber relay cover.

Just don't sell the bike without restoring the relay.

:lol:    :lol:

Very well put, John.

I'm sure you'll be pleased to know my GS still has it's warning sticker on top of the fuel tank. This is however, the first bike I've left it on. I figured since I plan to sell it soon, I'll leave it on to "protect" the next owner.  

I wish I still had my sticker.  It makes a nice backing for writing on those darn thermal-paper gas pump receipts.  :x

What warning sticker?

My tank has been painted by previous owners several times.

If I kill myself for not knowing someting the manufacturer didn't warn me about I'll sue the previous owners. :lol:  :lol:

I'll second John's suggestion: remove the relay altogether, and jump the orange/blue wire at the relay to one of the orange wires.

One other suggestion: check for resistance between battery (-) and chassis, and between battery (-) and the ground terminal in the regulator/rectifier plug.

The circuit is basically:
If the bike is in neutral, then the blue wire is grounded; and the blue wire provides ground via a diode to the green wire.
If the sidestand is up, then the green wire is grounded via a diode.
So... if either case is true, then green is ground.
When green is grounded, the relay connects orange to orange/blue.

So, to bypass the switches, you _could_ short green to ground.  But the bike has a diode between blue and green; and between ground and green... some kind of isolation against noise in ground?  Anyways, shorting green to ground would bypass these dioded.  So it would be safer to bypass the switches and also the relay, by removing the relay altogether and connecting orange to orange/blue.

Dammit.  I thought we had it.  The relay is not the problem.  It tested at 92 ohms on the one side, so it's good.  I jumpered the connector, and it's still blowing fuses.  I know the jumper is working, because I can start it in first gear with the sidestand down.  I'm ready to start drinking heavily.  Here are some key points that MAY help:

-  Not all orange wires are created equal.  One of the orange wires created the "sidestand up" effect, while the other did not.

-  Sometimes I can rev the bike and it's fine, meaning it varies how long it runs while jumpered and stationary.  It dies immediately when I try to take off (give it gas and let out the clutch).  I can replicate it 100% of the time while taking off.

-  I am using an assload of fuses, and I'm angry.

Quote from: mrblink......
Not all orange wires are created equal.  One of the orange wires created the "sidestand up" effect, while the other did not.........

With the ignition off, check the resistance between the two terminals with all orange wires.  It should be zero.

John - thanks for helping me through this.  I was so mad that the only thing I could do was go take a nap.  I feel better now...   :mrgreen:   I'm not sure what you mean by the two terminals and all orange wires.  I am a noob when it comes to electrical systems.

I think he's referring to the two terminals on the sidestand relay that have only orange wires connected to them - no other color:



The resistance between them should be zero.  If it's "infinity" instead than there is a break in the short wire that joins them.

Did I get that right, John?

Yeah, but I bypassed the relay completely by jumpering the connector.  Forgive me if i'm not getting it.   :dunno:

Quote from: KerryThe resistance between them should be zero.  If it's "infinity" instead than there is a break in the short wire that joins them.

If the orange lead to the relay coil were not hot, then the relay would never close, and the bike would not start.  And if there were no voltage on the "load" orange wire, then even if the relay closed, the bike would not start.  If the bike started at all with the relay in place, then I think there had to be voltage at both orange wires.  I can't explain why mrblink didn't have success with one of the orange wires.

On the bright side, if he got the bike to start with the orange/blue jumpered to one of the orange wires, then I don't see that the sidestand switch is a factor anymore.  If the bike still pops fuses, then it doesn't sound like the sidestand is the culprit.

It sounds as though there is an intermittent short.  I'd recommend checking for resistance between battery ground and both chassis ground, and rectifier ground... but if the short is intermittent, then checking things while the bike is "happy" won't tell you everything.

Another approach would be to disconnect some of the "optional" electrical stuff, and see if anything stops the fuses from blowing.   For example, you can disconnect the three yellow wires from the alternator to the regulator (under the left lide panel); I think you can even unplug the nylon connector to the R/R altogether (under the right side panel), and the bike will still start and run (you may want to hook the battery up to a car battery with jumper cables).

I think if you disconnect the brown and gray wires in the headlight bucket ; and remove the turn signal relay; and disconnect the white wire at the hi-beam swtich, then that should disconnect almost all the lights on the bike (except neutral and oil pressure lights).

Quote from: mrblink
-  Not all orange wires are created equal.  One of the orange wires created the "sidestand up" effect, while the other did not.

I think we are confused by the above statement.  

Were you bypassing the relay when you discovered this?

Are you saying that when you jumpered from the orange-blue wire to one of the terminals with orange wires that the bypass worked but when you jumpered to the other it didn't? That's the way I read it.

If that's the case then there is someting wrong with that part of the ckt.

With no jumpers the ohmeter should read zero between the two terminals with all orange wires.

John - that's exactly what I was saying.  Now, I was jumpering with a paper clip, so it's possible that it wasn't making a good connection.  I will verify to make sure 100% (but it's why I decided to use the other orange wire).  I was confused by "With no jumpers the ohmeter should read zero between the two terminals with all orange wires".  I don't know that the "two terminals" are.  Are you talking about the actual relay, or the connector?

I'm talking about the terminals on the sidestand relay connector, with the relay removed.  That's where the wires are and where you should be working with both the jumper and the ohmeter.