hey all... so i was installing srinath bars following the instructions on pantablo's site...everything went well until i started my bike up...the rpms are going crazy!  i tried riding it and a touch on the throttle would sent the rpms up high...its acting as if i left the choke on after the bike has warmed up...what did i do? how can i fix this?


- alex

OK somehting is binding ... you sand the area where the choke and throttle go ... make sure its not binding ... BTW who sold you those ... Mercdude ... he should have told you to sand the things to fit ti nice and loose ... Cos I sure as hell told him...
Cool.
Srinath.

Yeah, they'll do that if they are too tight.  Mine did too.  Make sure that if you sand down to bare metal you paint or something so they won't rust on you.

Check to see that the choke cable is relleasing properly. As you move the choke lever,  that little gold looking thing with the spring should move aswell:



and


The pictures are provided by Kerry (as always)  

If there is not enough motion in that little thing, then it is posible that The choke itself is catching on the bar, but if it moves frely, then it is also posible that when you reasembled the Left switch, something went out of place and now the choke cable is tighter.

Finaly, after you get the choke lever to moove freely, if you had to strip/grind away the paint beneath it, you should at least oil it to prevent corrosion (like Dom Said).

Enjoy the new bars...

do the rpm go up and down when you turn the steering left and right?

Quote from: seshadri_srinathOK somehting is binding ... you sand the area where the choke and throttle go ... make sure its not binding ... BTW who sold you those ... Mercdude ... he should have told you to sand the things to fit ti nice and loose ... Cos I sure as hell told him...
Cool.
Srinath.

hey srinath yeah i bought 'em off mercdude...im too poor of a college student to spring for the bars straight from you   ...probably should have...but could you give me more details about what i should be sanding and what is binding?

dsmirnov i checked the choke already...its fine...and GRU the rpm's arent going up when i turn the handlebars right or left...whats happening is that it idles slighty higher than normal (around 1700 rather than 1100) and then when i put it into first gear the rpms shoot up to 3000-4000 rpms...mmmyep

thanks guys


- alex

Well I have never delt with RPMs changing because of shifting into 1st... I'm stomped on that one, but Believe it or not the RPMs changing because you move the handlebars left and right is actualy normal.  If I think of something I'll post up, but for now, I don't have a clue. :dunno:  :dunno:
Cheers,
-DS

And you already checked your idle screw? Is there enough freeplay in the throttle cable? Choke cable freeplay?

idle screw? where?  and freeplay? how much?

but yeah...the revs just arent coming down...could it have something to do with the fact that i pushed  all the cables back when i installed the bars?  pablo mentions on his site that he had to do this but he had no ill effects...


- alex

It's the long brass shaft with the knob hanging down between the carbs.

But, since you only changed the handlebars, you would not have messed with the idle so don't actually mess with it yet.

First, set your freeplay.

Choke cable -  Turn the handlebars all the way left to see how loose it is down by the carburetor. It should not exert any tension on the choke arm in this picture:

If it does, loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster in (at the handlebar) until it no longer is holding the choke open.

Throttle freeplay - turn the handlebars all the way right and you should be able to wiggle/rotate the throttle grip by at least a millimeter. If not, loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster in (towards the grip) until you can.

so...i MAY have just made it worse...

so i started it up, and man does it warm up fast...i was off the choke in under 30 sec, which is weird cuz prior to this damn handlebar changing episode my bike had always been very slow to warm up...but anyway...i believe that there is enough freeplay, i just checked...when i turn my handlebar to the left the rpms stay the same...when i turn it to the right, however, it kinda goes nuts...so yeah turniing the handlebar off to the right does makethe rpms increase...

now the bad news...as i am parking my bike again so i can come back into my aptmt and type this, i decide to try it one more time just to see exactly what happens when i turn the handlebars...my finger slips off the starter button so i just barely push it, and the bike obviously doesnt start.  but no only does it not start, when i turn the key in the ignition the lights dont come on no more, and i cant start it anymore...i'm just hoping the battery needs to recharge and it'll be able to start again tomorrow...

but as for now, what does it mean when the rpms increase when turning the handlebars to the right?


- alex

It means thet either the throttle or choke cables are too tight.

You blew a fuse...
You have a tight I would almost bet its a throttle cable ... but worth checking both cables...
Cool.
Srinath.

ok...so blown fuse...can i fix that myself?  where would it be?

aaand if the cables are too tight...how do i check / fix that?  in simple layman terms, please...

thanks all i appreciate the help...i guess i'm learning while i'm screwing this up yeah?  


- alex

ps the blown fuse isnt serious, right?

Quote from: alexXxok...so blown fuse...can i fix that myself?  where would it be?

check the main page for wiring location... everything is under the seat

Quote from: alexXx
aaand if the cables are too tight...how do i check / fix that?  in simple layman terms, please...

easy fix... just remove all the controls from the bars... check over everyhing *maybe add some lube* then re-install the parts

Quote from: alexXx
thanks all i appreciate the help...i guess i'm learning while i'm screwing this up yeah?  

best way to do it!

Quote from: alexXx
ps the blown fuse isnt serious, right?

no... requires less then $1 to fix, and takes under 2 minutes

chris<pixelmonkey>

On an 89 the main fuse is right behind the Battery ...  :mrgreen:
On the later years its under the left side cover ... :x
Cool.
Srinath.

easy fix... just remove all the controls from the bars... check over everyhing *maybe add some lube* then re-install the parts

so...since this whole thing is a fun fun learning process for me...what does it mean that the cables were too tight?  i screwed 'em in too tight?  i accidentally pinched the wires or...?  i'm a little confused on the reasoning behind why this happened...and which parts am i adding lube to?  any specific lube to buy?  wow that could be taken wayy outta context...aaaanyway...

onto the fuse...where could i buy a replacement / what am i looking to buy?  and how could i tell which one burnt out?

thanks all


- alex

Your first step should be to pick up a repair manual if you haven't already.  You can get them through the site or, if you have to really pinch, sometimes they pop up used on eBay for cheap.  

You probably already have a spare fuse stored next to the starter relay.  You can check to see if the fuse is blown by looking at the thin U-shaped wire that connects the two seperate sides of the fuse.  If the U is broken, the fuse is blown.  You can find replacement fuses at any motorcycle parts store or dealer.  If not, then its not the fuse.  (If not the fuse, could be battery or bad contacts between starter relay and battery, or maybe side stand safety switch not fully retracting)

A manual will help you locate these things and troubleshoot.


Adam

Anytime you move or remove your controls you run the risk of kinking a cable.  The result is that the cable pulls a little more on either the throttle or choke, both of which will increase your rpms.  I don't know why it happens, it just does.

Start your bike with all the controls screwed in loosly so you can still rotate them around the handlebar and try to relieve the stress on the cables by either rotating the control forward or back, or try the idle adjust.  You might have to give a little slack on the nut where the throttle cable attaches to the carb... Turn the handlebars to the farthest left and right.  Sit on the bike and position your controls where they feel comfortable and then lock them down....You just have to exhaust all the possibilities, but you will probably find the one that is binding up on you.

Apply some oil, not wd40, to the handlebar under the throttle grip so it rolls nice and smooth.

As a follow-up to Adam R's explanation about the fuse(s)....

The bike came stock with 2 fuses, 1 of which was a spare.  Here are some photos and a diagram from the Haynes manual showing how to check for a blown fuse:




If you have a later-than-'89 model, check out this post for a better picture of the starter relay location.  And some bonus tests for the starter relay if it ever comes to that!