I'm still haven't got my GS running (see this thread for some possibly irrelevant info: http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13608&highlight=dwburman)


Today I switched out the spark plugs (the old ones looked carbon fouled) and am in the middle of changing the oil. At first the bike wasn't running but I eventually got it going once I set the fuel valve to PRI. figures.

Okay here's what I didn't expect. The oil (been in there too long 15w-40) is really thin, smells like gasoline and there appears to be a lot more than 3qts. Is this normal?

Also, on a somewhat unrelated topic, the on/off valve on the gas tank, should the open end of the notch be at the 'ON' position or turned all the way to the left or right?

It should goto the on notch...if you turn all the way left or right it will not flow any fuel. I found this out the hard way, and you may want to be semi-accurate on how close you align it to the open notch.

okay, thanks for the tip, coll0412.

incidently, there wasn't way more than 3qts of oil in there, it just looked like it to my inexperienced eyes. but the oil (delvac diesel 15w-40) still smells like gas.

It sounds like you may have had a "carburetor overflow" incident at one point.

This can happen if your float valve(s) get(s) stuck open and your fuel selector is in the PRI position.  Fuel will flow into the float bowl(s) and up through the jets, eventually filling the carb body and finally running along the rubber boot(s) that attach the carb(s) to the engine.

If the appropriate intake valve happens to be open, then the fuel will drain into the cylinder, where I presume that most of it will slowly leak past the split in the rings and come to rest in the oilpan.

The other path that a fuel overflow can take is from the rear of the carbs into the airbox and then through a drain hose to the ground.

The leak could be VERY slow, so you may not be able to tell whether it's still happening without letting it sit for a long period of time.

What can you tell us about the "state of cleanliness" of the carbs?  (Specifically, the float valve needles and seats.)

Well, I did get it out and running again tonight.  I definately don't have the right gear for winter riding without a windscreen

I don't know the condition of the carbs but i have flooded it and tipped the bike over with that tank of oil. It might be running a little rough and in need of a tune up but I'm not sure I want to mess with that at this point. I'm trying to decide if I want to stow it for the next three months or not. How often should I ride it (minimally) in the winter. [/b]

Quote from: dwburmanWell, I did get it out and running again tonight.  

Cool!

Quote from: dwburmani have flooded it and tipped the bike over with that tank of oil.

OK - that could do it, too.

Quote from: dwburmanI'm trying to decide if I want to stow it for the next three months or not. How often should I ride it (minimally) in the winter.

Minimally?  Not at all.  If you only run it for a couple minutes you can introduce moisture in the exhaust, etc.

If you FILL the tank and do a good job of introducing fuel stabilizer (like Sta-Bil) throughout the tank, hoses and carbs you've won most of the battle.  You may want to take the battery inside and/or put it on a trickle charger.  If it gets REAL cold where you are you may want to raise the bike up on blocks or something, to keep the tires from developing a flat spot on the bottom.

Otherwise, a search for "winterizing" or "winterization" may turn up some good stuff.

I mean how often do I need to ride it to avoid bothering winterizing. Can I take it out for a spin (say half an hour) once or twice a month without having to add sta-bil, put the wheels on wood (I plan on new tires in the spring) and pulling the battery. It doesn't get below 15 here very often. It was down to 18 last night but tonight it is in the high 30's. It's in the 50's during the day most of this week and it's late December. But I'm sure we'll be getting ice storms and such in Jan or Feb. I was just wondering how long is too long for a bike to sit unused.

OK, I get it now.  Hmmmm.  I have left my bike sitting for several weeks (in the winter) before, and the only problem was a discharged battery.

Please forgive one more observation about Sta-bil.  According to the info on their website...

Quote from: Gold EagleStored fuel goes bad in as little as 60 days causing varnish deposits and corrosion to build up in engines.

I think that's true regardless of the outdoor temperature, so if you will ride only infrequently you might consider using some fuel stabilizer anyway.

For a slightly cheaper alternative to Sta-bil (from a trusted brand name!) see this post.

Thanks for the info kerry!

This varnish and corrosion you speak of piqued my interest.

Speaking hypothetically, if you were to ride a couple of times per month this winter, like my man here suggests he might do, you recommend using fuel stablizer anyway, and I agree.  But if the bike does sit for a while, and there is what you could only assume is a minor accumulation of "varnish and corrosion", do you think that you could clean this minor accumulation out by merely riding it?  

Does riding clean out this harmful build-ups or is it that the only way to remedy the situation is by taking the carbs apart and cleaning them?

Perhaps you're thinking that running the bike will "burn off" the gunk?  That's a tempting conclusion, but usually the gunk collects in tiny orifices in the carbs themselves, which are not subject to high heat or combustion.  They're just fuel containers with interesting inlets and outlets.

For me a manual cleaning is the only "sure" way, but there are other things you can try.  One is to add some regular, auto-type, in-tank fuel system cleaner and run through a couple of tanks of gas.

Another method that Srinath swears by is to use Yamaha carb cleaner (do a Search for those 3 words to read about this method).  I haven't done it myself, but it sounds virtually guaranteed to work!  

If you ride (say) a half-hour around town, then you're only going to burn (say) 10% of a tank of gas.  The other 90% will still be oxidizing, with the varnish separating out.  I think you'd want to fill-up the fuel each time (to help minimize tank rust), so you'd be diluting the older gas... but it's still there.  Even after 8 weekends of half-hour around-town rides, you're still going to have 50% of the original gas in the tank, mixed with 50% of "newer" gas.

Now, if you can get out and ride down into RES once per month, then you're probably OK without Sta-Bil.  But otherwise, I'd recommend Sta-Bil for anyone who isn't going to empty-out their tank within 2 months.