Quote from: dgyverDoug......do you think making a off-bike tester for the stator is feasible?

D, you are reading my mind!  

The tough part is the swinging mass of the rotor. Not really tough but it must be constructed so as not to kill surrounding people if something tries to turn loose or create Goat's Syndrome outside the bike. I've got several electric motor candidates for the project. It would require a little welding and heavy machining to be safe.

The unknown is - Optimum RPM above which no more juice comes from the stator. That would dictate the motor or gearing to get the RPM needed.

With the signal gen setup, the more RPM, the larger the amplitude of the signal. That makes sense because the magnetic field moved by the timing rotor gets hit faster and faster giving it less time to decay.

Srinath - doesn't your set come with a 3 year warranty? I've got a ham radio buddy I usually defer TV problems to. If not him, another tech school classmate also has a TV shop. Those guys took vows of poverty before getting in that business.  :lol:

It had a 1 year or somehting ... now it died in early 2001 ... I bought it in Canada in 1999, and it sat till last year, then It sat at the repair guy's shop ... Still there ... not a clue ... I traced it to a TP where I had to test the waveform and the voltages ... all else were OK ... The way it failed - picture folded in 1/2 vertically ... and I fiddled with the spread or something ... vertical something ... and it was OK till the next day it folded into nothing ... I basically wanted to swap out 1 capacitor and 1 IC ... that TP actually says about 2 IC's I swapped both and the cap ... and still nothing ... now that guy said its was acting strange ... everytime you switch it on ... It may be perfect, or be a total loss ... Not a clue what was causing it... now I have 1/2 a mind to take it back and turn it on and off till I like the pic and then it stays on ... I dont mind ...
Cool.
Srinath.

Hmmmm...the old collapsing vertical sync syndrome eh?

It is either the vertical drive to the power components or the power components themselves if the horizonal was fine. Schematics are absolutely necessary since about 1979. Unless one is familiar with a brand (read that as being in the business), anything else is guesswork without the schematic.

Calling around to shops that service the brand and asking if they have the same set with anther problem may not be a waste of time. Often manufacturers have one or two base boards they make with options and features that vary. Many times shops have sets that are abandoned. They often pitch the cabinet and keep the most useful items. Often too they haul a load to the landfill because of too many spares.

Insurance work after thunderstorms is their bread and butter. VCRs and DVD players? Disposable.

Subject change: Stator tester parts
1 each wornout GS500 crankshaft (need the end with the taper)
1 each good rotor
1 each rotor retention bolt
1 each stator
1 each wiring harness or partial harness with RR and sufficient stuff to make a load on same RR.
1 each electric motor to turn rotor at sufficient RPM to simulate engine.
Asst. parts - framework (metal or wood), bearings to support modified crankshaft, coupling between mod. shaft and electric drive motor, control circuitry (On-Off switch or speed controller to get fancy), nuts, bolts, machine tool to cut crankshaft, time to make it work.

Sounds easy enough.  

It took about 4 hours to get a decent coupling between the ignition rotor and the motor I used for the simulator. Even at that the max RPM is around 2K before imbalance/off center issues make scary noises. My biggest concern is the ig rotor hitting the magnet posts. I did not want to make a signal generator destroyer. :lol:

Quote from: starwaltSubject change: Stator tester parts
1 each wornout GS500 crankshaft (need the end with the taper)
1 each good rotor
1 each rotor retention bolt
1 each stator
1 each wiring harness or partial harness with RR and sufficient stuff to make a load on same RR.
1 each electric motor to turn rotor at sufficient RPM to simulate engine.
Asst. parts - framework (metal or wood), bearings to support modified crankshaft, coupling between mod. shaft and electric drive motor, control circuitry (On-Off switch or speed controller to get fancy), nuts, bolts, machine tool to cut crankshaft, time to make it work.

Sounds easy enough.  

It took about 4 hours to get a decent coupling between the ignition rotor and the motor I used for the simulator. Even at that the max RPM is around 2K before imbalance/off center issues make scary noises. My biggest concern is the ig rotor hitting the magnet posts. I did not want to make a signal generator destroyer. :lol:

I have a bad crank and I probably have most of the rest of the stuff as I just picked up a trailer load of GS parts. Now I have to sort through it all. The only thing that I am not sure I have a spare of is a rotor magnet....but then I have been thinking about building a motor with a total loss electrical system.

It would need to spin at least 3000 rpm and up to 5000 rpm. Easy enough to increase/decrease any motor speed with belts and pulleys. I have a geared reducer but not sure of its capabilities. The equipment (mill, lathe, band saw, welder, etc) and material (plate steel or aluminum, bearings, etc) to make it is not a problem...I have access to most anything...just have to search for it. Now only if I can find the time!

I wondered if track bikes, sprint - not endurance, operated with total loss setups. Change or charge the battery between runs. You could get by with less weight and spinning mass. Not that the stator and rotor add that much. With every speed event, all the little bits add up.

Sounds like we've got a goal for 2005. We will ponder on this more.

Been cleaning up the wiring on the ebay bike. Previous owners either changed the eye stalk signals for these cheap after market items or changed them because wrecks took them out. Either way they did a poor to average job of  installation.

Here's the before shot:


And the after shot:


A good wiring job does not consume that much time, is easy to learn, and costs very little. It also prevents trouble down the road due to poor connections and oxidation.

Speaking of oxidation, don't let leaky battery acid do this to your battery box:


The worst one is the donor/junk bike. The better one is the ebay bike. This part is a good candidate for a fiberglass/CF replacment. It is a nonstructural item and would not be that hard to layup.

Oh yea those cheapo turnsignals ... they come with too little wire to make it fit anyhitng ... they have like 4 inches of reach ... I had to splice in and fit it on anyhting I fitted it on ... Now see they want you to cut off your wiring in your T/S's ... so you can never use those as spares ... Ha Ha ... BTW cycle gear make - Moto Boss was the only decent one ... had almost 6 inches of wire ... almost reached on the GS IIRC...
Cool.
Srinath.

New Year's Day was spent cleaning up a bad fenderectomy on the ebay bike.


Also been pondering the insides of the ON/PRI/RES valve so I decided to break apart the junk donor and do an autopsy on it.


Parts are coming from GStwinners davipu and kee. Thanks guys!

Well it looks alright from the pics ... anyway to make the thing more of a definete closed when motor is off in on and res ... take that spring that goes against the back plate ... the big spring ... and stretch it ... like to twice its size ... it loses some springness with age ... and will let fuel flow on a full tank ... but not after you stretch it ... BTW standard trick on a concourse/eli ... Also You must have realised you can overbore the petcock ... drill out the fuel passages ... and heck open up the tank petcock and drill it as well ... that plastic conical piece is the bottleneck ... just drill it to the size of the metal tubes ID ...
Cool.
Srinath.

Here's more from the world of electrical testing....

If you have been following this tome, you will know my starter motor needed replacing (see avatar if you jumped in here). After reading several threads about other people's electrical problems, I decided that once I had a working starter motor (thanks to gstwinner davipu   ), some basic information would be needed. Here's the results of my tests (missed the Cycle World Show in Atlanta and missed meeting some GStwinners too):

I expected the starter motor to draw much current. Just look at the wires connected to it! I initially tried direct measurement. POP! I took out the 15A fuse in my DVM. The silly DVM is rated at 20A on the panel but has a 15A fuse internal. The 20A rating is a time dependent rating. Fuses can handle more than their rated amount for very short spans of time. The fuse element must heat up before melting and opening the circuit. Fuses are designed to "blow" according to a specified profile. Maybe this would be a better FAQ discussion. On with the original thread...

The Setup:


The circuit used:


The no-load start current of the starter motor tested is over 13 Amps!


The no-load run current of the starter motor tested is approx. 7 Amps.


The starter relay pulls 3 amps constantly when energized. Add the total load up and you can see why the 20A fuse might blow on starting the GS.

Reminder: THIS IS A NO LOAD TEST. ADD THE REAL ENGINE AND THE CURRENT GOES UP - WAY UP.

I plan to make a jig to test the starter motor in the bike. That should be very interesting. It might explain some fuse blowing threads I have read.

I wonder if this much R&D went into designing the GS?  :lol:

Keep the cool info coming!  

I heard the starter draws closer to 100 amps on my eliminator 1000 ...
And Kerry - Nope ... definetly not ... they had these things lying about ... and they slapped them together ...
Cool.
Srinath.

A Wild A** Guess: running the starter motor for one minute depletes the stock 11aH battery by, oh, 1 or 2 amp-hours.  I think that would be 60-120 amps of draw with the motor attached.

But I guess we'll know for sure in a month or two, when you get the bike back together

Leaving the starter motor for some elbow grease dirty work on the side covers. Road rash is very evident on a black case. Even if you paint over it like a previous owner did.



With the signal generator cover, the sticky plate must be on to cover the hole in the casting. Here I am peeling it off.



Now into a bucket of solvent that was clear and is now black with the paint they applied to hide the scars.



Hanging out to dry and evaporate the extra solvent. Notice how dull the remaining paint is. I took a file to the round section to smooth out the rash. I may use epoxy or JB Weld as bondo prior to repainting.



Almost ditto for the stator cover except they left the Suzuki sticky plate off this side before the "goth makeup" application.



The cover gasket was very brittle and I decided to scrape it off prior to doing the solvent thing with it.



Got a BikeBandit order, an ebay purchase, and a gstwinner deal in this week. Work has had me busy so this weekend did not see as much progress as I would have liked. I also have to attend a seminar out of town this week  :x .

OK you're putting in waaaay to much effort into a (OK OK shields up) worthless bike ... OK fine you are learning ... but dammit man looks like you already knew 90% of it ...
Cool.
Srinath.

At least the bike will be rebuilt properly. If well taken care of, it will last another 10+ years.

Here's an update and a bump in this process. I have been busy with assorted subtasks with the project. Been distracted from a lot of the dirty work and decided to get greasy tonight (afterall it is Friday night).

No amount of sweet talk would get the old chain master link loose from this bike so....Dremel thin discs to the plates! Was this a nasty chain or what?





The spacer (sprocket stop) on the drive shaft has much rust on it. I wonder if an oxidizer was used in the past to clean this area? The plan is to clean it up and move on. If a lower engine rebuild is ever made, then I will pull the spacer and polish it up proper.



One of my distractions has been taking xrays of the ignition module and the regulator/rectifier. I will be posting better images. This is just a photo of an xray of the ignition module. Fuzzy for sure but enough detail to see integrated circuits and some components.



I am on vacation next week and hope to do some GS work and woodworking on a remodeling project.

Hey starwalt ...
What do you make of that countershaft ... you think I can drill a 3/8th hole in it with a hand drill ... and further ... you think I can tap it ... I need it to do belt drive ...
Cool.
Srinath.

second to las pic...... the neutral indicator....

if you solder wires the the other 6 taps and then hook to 6 lights in a row....
you will have a very low tech gear indicator
install them in a row and you will always know what gear you're in

0 0 0 0 0 0
1 2 3 4 5 6

now how is that for a kewl idea.......

Quote from: werase643second to las pic...... the neutral indicator....

if you solder wires the the other 6 taps and then hook to 6 lights in a row....
you will have a very low tech gear indicator
install them in a row and you will always know what gear you're in

0 0 0 0 0 0
1 2 3 4 5 6

now how is that for a kewl idea.......

You got my attention.  How does the neutral indicator work? :dunno: