Just picked up a 89 over the weekend to set up as a track day bike.  Prior owner felt that its electrical woes are caused by a bad stator.  He checked / replaced just about all of the other electrical components.  What is the easiest way to check if the stator is bad with a volt meter?

Thanks,

Walt

Check resistance across the 3 coils and resistance to ground for each. Any value to ground is bad, and 2.1 to 2.2 ohms between each is the best, any less than that means one or more is burning out ... oddly it will take a long time to go from 2.1 to say 1.8, 1/2 that time or less to go to 1.5 from 1.8 and from 1.5 it decays really fast. More shors = lower resistance = more internal heat = burns faster. If you have connectivity to ground ... open up the thing. You might have goats. Especially if its beed down on the left.
Cool.
Srinath.

fyi... I have acquired a couple stators... I think im up to three now (while going through goat's syndrome... which your bike very well may have...)


unplug the three yellow wires, and test resistance (ohms) between each one.

On mine:

newish stator: 1.1, 1.1, 1.2
oldish cracked enamel stator: .9, .8, .9
old old cracked beaten stator: .7, .7, .7



so... I'm not so sure about the 2.1 for a good stator... or best... cause my 'newish' one looks about perfect... the wire sheath is hardly turned brown

Joe,

Should I test from the plug under the seat or do I need to pull the engine cover off?

I am a little vaque on testing between the three wires.  Is their any certain combo of each two wires or just one with the other, then the other, etc.

Thanks,

Walt

Not sure why I called you Joe................Walt

The engine cover does not need to be removed. Check every combination of 2 of the 3 wires. Also, the stator is supposed to put out at least 90VAC (I think) above 5000 rpm.

the stator wires are underneath the left rear plastic piece.  You will have to remove the seat, then the two bolts that hold the panel on.  


The wires come out from the engine case next to the driver left footpeg...  and follow it up.

Quote from: se7enty7fyi... I have acquired a couple stators... I think im up to three now (while going through goat's syndrome... which your bike very well may have...)


unplug the three yellow wires, and test resistance (ohms) between each one.

On mine:

newish stator: 1.1, 1.1, 1.2
oldish cracked enamel stator: .9, .8, .9
old old cracked beaten stator: .7, .7, .7



so... I'm not so sure about the 2.1 for a good stator... or best... cause my 'newish' one looks about perfect... the wire sheath is hardly turned brown

OK I dont know where I got that 2.1 from either ... maybe some weird memory lapse making me access the slice of memory I used when I did my vulcan. Anyway I haven't the foggiest clue what the GS should be. So go with se7enty7's numbers.
Cool.
Srinath.

See if the old Charging system thread sheds any extra light.  :dunno:

Quote from: dgyverThe engine cover does not need to be removed. Check every combination of 2 of the 3 wires. Also, the stator is supposed to put out at least 90VAC (I think) above 5000 rpm.

anything over 75 VAC is SAT.
I just read SUZI shop man

OK running at 5K and testing ... lovely way to
1. Burn the stator if its not already busted.
2. Give yourself a rejuvenating jolt of AC.
3. All of the above.
Cool.
Srinath.

buda

how the fuc* do you expect to op check it....if not like it is supposed to be checked?

ya know... like the MFR. recomends to do it

Quote from: werase643anything over 75 VAC is SAT.
I just read SUZI shop man

Thanks. I did not have a GS manual handy. Just going by memory. The TLR is 90 VAC then.


srinath.....read the service manual for the proper way to test the charging system. Well if you are stupid enough to grab hold of the wires while the bike is running, then you deserve to get shocked.

Just because the ohm resistance measures correctly does not mean that the voltage output is correct. I know this for a fact since I went through this with my TLR.

I Know it says that ... but I'll bet it also says to put end play shims in the camshaft ends too that doesn't mean its not a good way to get yourself shocked ... or even be possible to do (in case of camshaft end shims).
Cool.
Srinath.

Quoteover 75 VAC is SAT.

Ok I give up. Is this SATurated, SATisfied, SATurday, Specified And Tested, .....?   :dunno:

SATisfactory...good enuff to still use

O really ... I thought it was "SAT"urday myself ...   :lol:  :lol:  :lol:
Now scram ... I gottsa watch American Idle, drink beer and laugh at those losers ...  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:
Cool.
Srinath.

also to be real specific.....factory service man kind of stuff

there is no OHM value for the windings.... just that there is continuity....
and i cant, for the life of me, remember what a good value for continuity is....or what constitutes a bad reading....besides an open (infinity)reading

TANGENT....
BUDA....
have you had any luck in the jobless recovery?

i wouldn't recommend a tech job at a bike shop :nana:

besides the obvious shitty pay scale

Quote from: werase643TANGENT....
BUDA....
have you had any luck in the jobless recovery?

i wouldn't recommend a tech job at a bike shop :nana:

besides the obvious shitty pay scale

Why do you not like srinath?


(or are you being sarcastic?  my sarcasm meter might be broken...)