I recently adjusted my valves using the perhaps inadvisable method of
wedges and turning the engine to release the shims.

Since doing this, the bike runs more smoothly and has a little more
power than before.
This is good.
On the down side however the head is now far more noisy than before.

I tightened the exhaust valves by 1 step and loosened the intakes by one step.
I believe the looser valves should rattle a bit more, but I'm worried that I may have a bent valve.
If I had a bent valve would it be immediately obvious, or could it just make a rattling noise and slowly destroy the engine as it goes?

Also I'm getting a slight oil leak from the corner of the right intake part of
the valve cover, any suggestions on how to remedy this?

While I'm here, anyone know what replacement rear shocks are
good?
I use the center stand a lot, so obviously I'd prefer to use one that won't
require modifying/removing this.

If you had bent a valve, the bike probably would not start due to lack of compression. A compression check can confirm this. Another method is to remove the spark plug and shine a light inside the cylinder. Look in the exhaust and intake ports at the valves for any light. You will need to rotate the engine by hand.

Well the bike starts up fine, and a 'wet thumb ovet the plug hole'
compression test tels me there is some compression, although as I've not
had my thumb calibrated recently I wouldn;t like to say how much
compression.

I guess I just have a noisy engine now.
Perhaps warmer weather will help keep things quiet, I've heard that
valves tend to be noisier in cold weather.

Right, now just the carbs to clean/balance, an air filter to replace and this oil leak to fix.
Any suggestions on stopping the valve cover gasket leaking?
Preferably one that does not involve getting a new gasket.

You may want to try a little gasket sealer.

Gasket sealer?
what does that do?
Duh! Perhaps I should have thought of that.

OK I'll look see if I can find some.
with me being UK based, any US brands are likely to be hard to find so
I guess I'll just have to see what I can find.

Thanks

I use a non-hardening type by Permatex. Kind of like a sticky/tacky silicone. It should be easily found at any auto parts store.

I put the same non hardening Permatex (green) on my 97 GS valve cover.  Put a thin coat on the cover to stick the gasket to the cover.  Much easier to clean up later rather than putting it on the head side of the gasket.

Quote from: dgyverIf you had bent a valve, the bike probably would not start due to lack of compression. A compression check can confirm this. Another method is to remove the spark plug and shine a light inside the cylinder. Look in the exhaust and intake ports at the valves for any light. You will need to rotate the engine by hand.

My 02 GS starts every time on one cylinder, summer or winter.   I bought the bike used with about 4k miles on it in Sept 03 and it has 21k+ miles on it now.  Seems I have a sticking bucket on the #2 cyl exhaust valve that holds the valve open on a cold engine.  

Noticed a ticking valve on startup that goes away in 30 sec or less except when very cold out it takes a bit longer.  When I first checked the valve clearances at about 10K miles I discovered it.  Could always rotate the buckets on the GS's with my finger tip with heel of cam towards shim.  Measured much clearance between cam and shim/bucket but could not budge the bucket.  It stuck tight on a cold engine.

Obviously this bucket was a too tight fit in the head when I bought the bike and I thought it might wear in and loosen up so I let it go for awhile.  No change in another 10k miles.  Think I should pull the exhaust cam and see if I can get it out and get one in that fits loosely this spring.   :lol:

It has caused  no problems except that I can't get a proper measure of valve clearance on that one valve.  Bike runs good all the time after a 30 sec or so warmup.  If I check compression with the old finger in the hole technique there is no compression on that cylinder when cold.  Warm the bike up briefly and check and compression pops equally good on both cylinders.  The greater coefficient of linear expansion of aluminum over steel makes the hole grow faster than the bucket and all is well soon as a little heat gets in there.

Anyone else ever run into a GS valve bucket that was too tight in the head?

I bent both exhaust valves once and it was a beatch to start. It would run sometimes but usually just back fired, really loud.

Haven't dealt with a sticking bucket. They are tough to get to fit just right at times.