my 2000 gs500 clutch is slipping it is not going into gear at all. I had a friend take a look at it and he cannot figure out what is wrong.

Any suggestions what will cause the clutch to slip, it of course is making a loud winding sound since it is unable to fall into gear.

and does anyone know the torque specifications for the clutch bolts?

Thanks.

How many miles does it have?
Is there the proper amount of clutch lever play at the handlebar?
Have you changed the oil to a synthetic recently?

The torque spec is not much, 3-4.5 ft/lbs.

EDIT: I checked and changed the above to the correct torque.

It has 1900 miles on it

The adjustments appear to be fine

and we put in the proper oil after we bought the bike apparently the dealer did not really put any oil in it after they did their diagnostics

I would not expect the plates to be worn out with such low miles. If the previous owner did not have the clutch adjusted properly or abused it in some way, then excessive wear is possible. The only way to check is to measure the thickness of them, which requires removing the right side case cover. If you do remove the case to measure the clutch plates, check the spring lengths as well.

The reason I asked about the syn oil is that I had a problem with the factory clutch slipping when I switch to synthetic oil. I do not know the mileage on the clutch plates but they still measured within spec.

theres a plate on the right side..I think it's on the right...  it's removed by two screws....   i know it adjusts the clutch, but is it adjusting that can't be adjusted via the clutch cable?

Quote from: se7enty7theres a plate on the right side..I think it's on the right...  it's removed by two screws....   i know it adjusts the clutch, but is it adjusting that can't be adjusted via the clutch cable?

It is on the left side on the sprocket cover.

Quote from: dgyver

Quote from: se7enty7theres a plate on the right side..I think it's on the right...  it's removed by two screws....   i know it adjusts the clutch, but is it adjusting that can't be adjusted via the clutch cable?

It is on the left side on the sprocket cover.

ok... but what does it do?

OK, I'll try and explain what I know, the terms may not be quite what is used in the books I'm afraid.
The clutch control is in 3 main parts.

1st part; the clutch push rod.
This should be fully out for the clutch to engage properly, this rod is pushed by the clutch pusher mechanism. When pushed in the plates are seperated and the clutch disengaged.

2nd part; the clutch pusher mechanism.
This is what is under the sprocket cover. It is pulled by the clutch cable
and pushes on the clutch push rod. when fully released it should allow the clutch push rod to come all the way out otherwise the clutch will not fully engage and you'll get clutch slip. The screw under the little cover on the sprocket cover can be used to adjust how much clearance this mechanism gives to the clutch pusher rod.

3rd part; the clutch cable/handle.
This is the part most people adjust, it controls how much the cable pulls on the clutch pusher mechanism. If this cable is slack then the clutch pusher mechanism is fully released. NOTE this does not mean that the clutch pusher mechanism has necesarrily allowed the clutch pusher rod to fully disengeage the clutch.  If the cable is too tight it will not allow the clutch pusher mechanism to be fully released, this will also result in clutch slip.


I hope this helps you understand how you can have a properly adjusted clutch cable yet still get clutch slip.

The screw under the small cover adjusts the clearance on the clutch push rod.
To adjust this , 1stly you should loosen your clutch cable to allow the clutch pusher mechanism to fully release.
Next you should back the screw under the cover off, then gently screw it back in again until it just touches the end of the rod.
Finally replace the small cover and adjust the clutch cable to the desired settings.


I think the Haynes comic covers this but doesn't really explain what the bits do.

On the adjustment of the push rod mechanism under the small cover, the adjuster should be backed out about 1/4-1/2 turn.

OK if it wont go into gear ... its not slipping ... the clutch isn't dis engaging ...
Look and see if the clutch push rod is in that little cup thing its supposed to sit in inside that activation arm pivot. The clutch oush rod usually bends a bit and can entirely be outside the cup if someone wasn't paying attention when re assembly ...
Cool.
Srinath.

Quote from: red_philOK, I'll try and explain what I know, the terms may not be quite what is used in the books I'm afraid.
The clutch control is in 3 main parts.

1st part; the clutch push rod.
This should be fully out for the clutch to engage properly, this rod is pushed by the clutch pusher mechanism. When pushed in the plates are seperated and the clutch disengaged.

2nd part; the clutch pusher mechanism.
This is what is under the sprocket cover. It is pulled by the clutch cable
and pushes on the clutch push rod. when fully released it should allow the clutch push rod to come all the way out otherwise the clutch will not fully engage and you'll get clutch slip. The screw under the little cover on the sprocket cover can be used to adjust how much clearance this mechanism gives to the clutch pusher rod.

3rd part; the clutch cable/handle.
This is the part most people adjust, it controls how much the cable pulls on the clutch pusher mechanism. If this cable is slack then the clutch pusher mechanism is fully released. NOTE this does not mean that the clutch pusher mechanism has necesarrily allowed the clutch pusher rod to fully disengeage the clutch.  If the cable is too tight it will not allow the clutch pusher mechanism to be fully released, this will also result in clutch slip.


I hope this helps you understand how you can have a properly adjusted clutch cable yet still get clutch slip.

The screw under the small cover adjusts the clearance on the clutch push rod.
To adjust this , 1stly you should loosen your clutch cable to allow the clutch pusher mechanism to fully release.
Next you should back the screw under the cover off, then gently screw it back in again until it just touches the end of the rod.
Finally replace the small cover and adjust the clutch cable to the desired settings.


I think the Haynes comic covers this but doesn't really explain what the bits do.

interesting... I couldn't find anything about that plate adjustment in clymer's....

What could of happened is if you have been popping the clutch to wheelie or some other thing like that.  Then the clutch plates could have worn grooves into the basket and they will stick.  Sometimes the grooves are really small but it only takes alittle edge to make them stick.

Ben

Thanks everyone for your advice and info I will be tackiling more of the clutch issue on Saturday.  I have only riddin the bike three times since I bought if from the dealership and this problem just suddenly began to happen, amongst many other problems with the bike it is in unsafe ridding condition. I have not attempted any wheelies or anything there is a possibility the previous owner may have but according to the mileage and condition of the frame it does not appear to have really been ridden much.

So wish me luck