Quote from: mike241. how can i not put wieght on the bar? i have to lean forward, so the arms take some of the wieght.

Pinch the tank with your knees and flex your back to keep the weight off the bars. You may get sore at first, but eventually you get used to it.

Quote from: mike242. i really dont have any exp. in wrenching etc. is installing spacers simple enough so i can do it? and if so how do i do it?)

Due to the fine threads inside the fork tubes, I suggest taking it to a mechanic.

Quote from: mike243. and also, what's progressive springs? where can i get it?)

These are springs that go inside the fork legs. They are stiffer/stronger, and may help plant the front tire on the ground for better traction.

Quote from: mike24p.s. thanks for the suggestions, but i dont think any of u guys are in the GS's range (i live in israel  :lol:  )

We try.

Quote from: mike24another question:

some1 told that adjusting the rear shock might help.

do any of u guys agree?

as i understand it has 7 grades of stiffness, i weigh 160 pounds (72 kg) what level should it be?

how can i see what level is it now, and how do i change it?

It may. How does it feel now? If you stiffen the rear, it may put more of a load on the front, and if the front springs are already too soft you may (key word there 'may') make it worse, or the rear end will be too stiff and you'll feel every bump. The change is not permanent, so you can try it, ride it and see. I suggest going up 1 notch at a time. I believe it is easiest to see from the left of the bike, you will see a collar with holes in it at the bottom of the spring, forward of the rear tire. I also suggest using a hammer and a long thin punch to rotate the collar (with the bike on the centerstand), using the punch on the edges of the holes.

OK this is how I'd put a spacer in the front ...
Centerstand and somehow lift the front  up and tie it .. I have a 7-8ft doorway type structure made up whihc I use ... but rafters, tree branches etc with tie down is fine. Then take off handle bar ... put the clamps back on the triple ... Then take off the top fork cap, and remove spacer and insert longer spacer and put the cap and a wrench etc on it and hold it all ... Then loop a strap into the handlebar clamps, I use those blue tiedown loop things whatever they are called ... and stick a steel pipe or rod in them and put the middle of the rod over the wrench on the cap and one person holds the wrench, cap and spacer steady ... and the other uses the pipe to press in ... Leverage is the name of the game ... Longer spacer is better than adding a spacer ... cos the stock spacer is 10 inches ... so most of it will be inside before you compress ... so less things to hold and guide in ...
Cool.
Srinath.

Or, you could put the little spacer in there first and then the 10" tube. Just trying to help.

what kind of threads are in the fork that i should be careful with?

The threads are lefty-loosey/rightey-tightey, but they are of a finer thread pitch (the peaks of the threads are closer together), like 18 threads per cm, or something like that. You could do it. The only apprehention, for me, is that with greater spring pressure (not that much in the case of stock springs, so adding spacers to the stock springs isn't intimidating) requires greater force and it's not as easy to be careful when trying to thread the cap back into the fork tube. Now, if you do the way Srinath suggested and get a freind to help you, it should be just that easy.