I did a search, and didn't get any real answers :x .  Anyways, i have some very small pihole leaks along the bottom edge of my tank(along where your knee goes).  It leaks enough that it has bubbled the paint is there anyhting i can get that would fix this.  I have a local Oreilly's in the town I live.  I don't want to replace the tank either.

Well I am welding it and coating it and powdercoating it for a tak=nk I got ... nothing else is really permanent ... i pressure test it after welding ... so I dont like anyhitng that cant stand that, and of course if its not on there well ... I weld it till it is ... I'd do exactly that ... its common and not easy to fix in reality ...
Cool.
Srinath.

Does it look something like this? From my 1990 project bike...


Here is  the big picture of my tank. You can see the above shot about where the left knee would rest.


The lower sides of these tanks are basically useless for fuel and cause water, rust, and other crap to stay there. The spot welds along this area often seem to be just poor quality. As Srinath said, it is common. There is no simple solution to it.

yep, thats what i got going on.  So if i get some sort of gas tank patch, that won't hold tempoarily?.  I plan on sanding down the whole bike and slapping a new paint job on her next winter.

Well that depends on what you call a "patch." If you want to trowel on some JB Weld or other epoxy from the outside...it won't last and maybe not even stop the current leak. Srinath has done a few tanks and has his methods that work.

There are several DIY products out there, Kreem, POR-15 just to name two. I have the POR-15 motorcycle kit and am going to give it try. A couple of people I know swear by it. Srinath has seen more bad Kreem attempts than any one human being should have to see. Here is a shot of a tank he is working on. You may have capture it and tweak the brightness, etc to see the full problem.

I have seen some post that they sent the tank off to a company that does this regularly. Price range is over $150. Basically you must remove the rust, gunk, etc from the insides and make the tank CLEAN and BARE. Then you coat the tank insides COMPLETELY to keep fluids off the metal. After that, reassembly is performed and pressure test to make certain no leaks exist.

If you don't mind public ridicule or teasing, you could just tape a Pamper to the side and change it regularly.  :lol: They've got cool ones now with your favorite action heroes on them.

You could clean the tank, etch it with acid, then fill the "crap pockets" with JBWeld (or a real fuel-safe epoxy) from the inside.  That would probably do better than covering from the outside.  But it may be hard to get it pressed in there.  Instead of epoxy, you could use melted lead or bronze.  For unpressurized seals, lead has worked pretty well for quite awhile, and it's easy to melt: tilt the tank and pour a dozen ounces of melted lead in from the bottom.

Haven't tried it; it's just a thought.

the lead idea sounds like something i might like to try, Me and my father melt lead down and make all of our own fishing sinkers, so I might try that if you guys think that might work good, I would prolly do the jb weld on the outside as well.

OK lead filler ... one huge disadvantage ... you cannot acid treat it ever ... You put lead in it, the next step has to be to pressure check it wihtout water preferably and the next step is coating ... I dont like that option ... Lead is easy, but the down side is too great ... Tig up ... that's the right and only way ... IMHO ... and pressure test, and tig more if leaks and pressure test ... and so on ... I have cap fittings and petcock fitting that will block them off to a good 20 psi pressure ... Only way to tell IMHO ...
Cool.
Srinath.

acid treat?  Is that to remove rust and garbage?  besides that, what are the other disadvantages to the lead treatment.  I have a tig welder, but am not the greatest at welding.  Im afraid that i will blow a big gaping hole in the tank.  Id rather not take it to someone either.  I hate paying other people to do work for me.

Acid etch is to remove rust ... cleanest way to do that ... I just think you should acid etch it first, remove the rust, see if it pin holes else where, practice welding thin sheet metal, and then tig up all the holes shut ... then pressure test if you can ... but if not fill with hot water and put cap and petcock back on ... the water and steam will pressure it for you .... just dont make it sit there too long and it might blow from the pressure ... Then drain it and dry it and coat it ... follow other precautions from my post in FAQ ...
Cool.
Srinath.