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Rejetting led to power loss under 4.5k RPMs

Started by conflicttheorist, March 27, 2005, 12:37:10 PM

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conflicttheorist

Okay, I took it upon myself to rejet my carbs.  I put in 40 pilots, 125 mains, and one #4 washer from ace hardware under each needle.  I turned the screws, I think, 2.5 rotations out (I may have counted wrong, somehow, in retrospect, and it may be less).  I should also mention that my carbs already had 125 mains in them even though some of the rejet posts said 122.5 was stock.  Now, when I accellerate there is little power until nearly 4.5-5 thousand rpms and then it takes off.
a.  Why would I have 125 mains? is that stock for my 1995?
b.  Because I had 125 mains already should I remove the washer or do I need it still?  Should I also move the mixture screws back to the original positions?
c.  Is the problem just the mixture screws?  Am I too Rich or too Lean?
d. eh?
Thanks
I came here to kick @$$ or chew bubblegum...and it looks like I'm all out of bubblegum.

denman

i just did my bike the same with v/h full system. and a 15 tooth counter shaft sprocket.   and three full turns out on the mix.  it runs gerat at all revs and speeds.    see ya.
every day above ground is a good day.

The Buddha

Quote from: conflicttheoristOkay, I took it upon myself to rejet my carbs.  I put in 40 pilots, 125 mains, and one #4 washer from ace hardware under each needle.  I turned the screws, I think, 2.5 rotations out (I may have counted wrong, somehow, in retrospect, and it may be less).  I should also mention that my carbs already had 125 mains in them even though some of the rejet posts said 122.5 was stock.  Now, when I accellerate there is little power until nearly 4.5-5 thousand rpms and then it takes off.
a.  Why would I have 125 mains? is that stock for my 1995?
b.  Because I had 125 mains already should I remove the washer or do I need it still?  Should I also move the mixture screws back to the original positions?
c.  Is the problem just the mixture screws?  Am I too Rich or too Lean?
d. eh?
Thanks

Idle is fine ?? Then leave mix screws alone ...
You have Paper filter in air box and stock pipe right ... 122.5 is stock ... 125 might have been previous owner ... you using carbs that scratch gave you right ... Only think I can think of is float level ... where is that set at ... also are those CA carbs ... if so ... more turns out on mix screw ... cos they had bigger air jets in them. Non bleed pilots right ... What about carb synch ??? I'd guess you are lean, but need more info ... better when its hot outside, or better if cold. Also better when warmed up motor or better cold. Valves in synch??
Cool.
Srinath.
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conflicttheorist

Quote from: seshadri_srinath
Idle is fine ?? Then leave mix screws alone ...
You have Paper filter in air box and stock pipe right ... 122.5 is stock ... 125 might have been previous owner ... you using carbs that scratch gave you right ... Only think I can think of is float level ... where is that set at ... also are those CA carbs ... if so ... more turns out on mix screw ... cos they had bigger air jets in them. Non bleed pilots right ... What about carb synch ??? I'd guess you are lean, but need more info ... better when its hot outside, or better if cold. Also better when warmed up motor or better cold. Valves in synch??
Cool.
Srinath.

I'm pretty sure my valves are good, did those about 1k ago.  These carb bodies came from a california bike, I think, but my bike is a 49 stater.   the 125's came with my bike and I transferred them to the new carbs because the carbs scratch gave me didn't come with mains.  Carbs were synched last time and the bike was running fine before.  The only thing that I changed on it, then, is added the 40s and shimmed the needle.  I've kept on turning out the screws by half a turn and trying it out and it is the same. so I'm thinking I need to screw them back in to where they started?  Also, If my bike was running fine with the 125's before, did I need to shim the needle or was that pointless? could the problem lie therein?
I came here to kick @$$ or chew bubblegum...and it looks like I'm all out of bubblegum.

The Buddha

OK if you were fine with the old 37.5 pilots and had 125 mains and no washer and it ran fine ... you swapped out carb bodies and are wondering why its not fine right ...
OK the extra air from CA carbs, and float level are the first 2 checks I'd do ... if they check out ... start looking at choke if its being held open, and more carb body related stuff ...
Cool.
Srinath.
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conflicttheorist

well, I swapped the carb bodies months ago.  It has been running fine- I just got it into my head to do a rejet yesterday.  The only things that I have changed is the non-bleed 40's, the washer, and all the turns out I did on the mixture screws.  I'm wondering which one of those three is the culprit.
I came here to kick @$$ or chew bubblegum...and it looks like I'm all out of bubblegum.

The Buddha

My decreasing order of suspicion ... washer, pilots then screws ...
However, Your bike was fine with no washer, and 37.5 pilots, so you may have had  float level set higher than what is right to make it richer ... now that you have the right jets in it ... you're too rich ... Check float ... then start removing one at a tile in the order I said ... We'll know pretty soon ...
Cool.
Srinath.
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I run a business based on other people's junk.
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conflicttheorist

If I was a surgeon, I'd be the one who loses patients because I keep leaving my scalpel inside and then sow them up.  It turns out I didn't properly put one of the spring seats in and it was lodged under the needle.  Fixed that and the bike runs like a MFer.  Srinath, make sure I add my own absent-mindedness to the list of possible probelems from now on :roll:
I came here to kick @$$ or chew bubblegum...and it looks like I'm all out of bubblegum.

The Buddha

Ah ha ... it bears checking in everyone's case ... Once in a while I go "now what did I put in this carb" ... and pretty much take it all apart and check it ...
Cool.
Srinath.
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I run a business based on other people's junk.
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conflicttheorist

Hah!  I'm not as stupid as I thought I was.  After the problem occurred again, for the same reason, I realized that the #4 washer is just a hair too big.  A much better fit is the #3 washer.  Let me write this out in case anyone searches this later.  The #4 ( number 4 ) size washer I used to shim the needle while doing my rejet ( rejetting ) had a too large diameter, the #3 washer was a perfect fit .  Now here's my last question.
Because I readjusted the mixture screws too many times to count, I checked on the old carbs to see how far out they were and it was about 4 rotations from all the way in.  I pulled these ones out 4 rotations as well.  Do you think I should pull them out any more and by how many rotations?
I came here to kick @$$ or chew bubblegum...and it looks like I'm all out of bubblegum.

The Buddha

40 pilots make a good bit of difference at low rpm ... 4 or further in might be the better setting ...
Cool.
Srinath.
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I run a business based on other people's junk.
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conflicttheorist

Quote from: seshadri_srinath40 pilots make a good bit of difference at low rpm ... 4 or further in might be the better setting ...
Cool.
Srinath.

So, assuming that four turns out is the factory setting, you would leave it there or actually screw them in a little more?  That seems to go against all of the posts I've read.
I came here to kick @$$ or chew bubblegum...and it looks like I'm all out of bubblegum.

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