I did some testing on my bikes electonics and came to the conclusion that I have a faulty stator.  How hard is it to install these.  I have decent mechanics skills, and access to lots of tools.  Anyone done this, how long does it take, degree of dificulty?  Also does anyone have a used one they want to sell, or know what a new one runs.  I will post a want ad for one, so you can reply there if you have one an not clutter this section with that kinda stuff.  Thanks

Being the first time, it should take about 2 hours to replace. You will need the left side case cover gasket (about $9) and remove the sprocket cover to remove the left case cover. If the bike has ever been down on the left side, check the mounting boss for the stator for cracks. The bike can be leaned to the right so the oil does not need to be drained but it may be easier to drain the oil to have a stable bike to work on. Doulble check the torque specs for the cover bolts, it is not much.

Are you sure it is bad? The other day Doug (starwalt) came over and tested the several I have. We forgot to test 2, the one on my TL and the one on the 541 motor. All were within the same range, even the one I thought was bad that I replaced on my TL. There was one wire combination on my racebike that gave a really high number. I know I have a ground short somewhere since the battery runs itself down if left connected.

realistically, no i don't know for sure its bad.  I was going by something i found on here.  I do know that my charging system is not doing what its supposed to.  I have blown 2 fuses in as many days.  When i read the voltage on my battery with it running, im barely at 12.  When i did the resistence for the 3 wires, yellow, and the 2 striped wires, can't remember colors now, i was getting a 001 on my meter.  There were no points on it.  on all 3 combinations of the wires.  I would love to not have to replace it.  The chart i was going by was a bit confusing.  Is there an easier one to go by, if so id love to try it again an make sure before i tear into the bike an replace something that doesn't need to be done.  this bike has been nothing but a headache since ive had it.

What was the voltage output of the stator when disconnected from the r/r and reving above 5k?

got readings of nothing on all 3 combo's

you did set the meter to read Ac when testing the 3 wire combo's for output right? spose to be what, 75vAC?

And what are you reading from any of the 3 to ground ... if you got anything other than open ... you got goats ...
Cool.
Srinath.

Quote from: jordanearlThe chart i was going by was a bit confusing.  Is there an easier one to go by, if so id love to try it again an make sure before i tear into the bike an replace something that doesn't need to be done.  this bike has been nothing but a headache since ive had it.

See http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=119649#119649 .
Basically, you test the three yellow wires from the stator.
With the bike running, you check volts AC from each wire to each other wire.  You should get a number, like 75 volts AC or something; the important thing is that all three pairings of yellow should give about the same number of volts AC (give or take).

Then with the engine off, set the meter to Ohms, and check each yellow wire individually to the bike frame.  You should get "OL" or "infinity", showing that none of the three wires has any connection at all to ground.

Quote from: seshadri_srinathAnd what are you reading from any of the 3 to ground ... if you got anything other than open ... you got goats ...
Cool.
Srinath.

no AC reading though... resistance... the horseshoe... measure from each of the three stator wires to each other, and each to ground

i had a former ITT Tech teacher come over this evening, after he messed around with it for a lil bit, he came to the conclusion that my regulator/rectifier is what the probl;em is.  Now i just need to find one.  I want a used one to save on costs, i have other things that need done as well.  What other bikes could be a donor for me, i have seen a few used ones on ebay for fairly cheap.  So unless some one 0on here has one to peddle off, thats prolly where ill get one.  Thanks for the input, and i will post after i get one back on the bike.  Thanks again

Most motorcycle regulator/rectifiers do the same thing: take 3 AC phases, and use 6 diodes to convert to DC, then regulate DC at 12-14v.  So just about any motorcycle will have a similar part.  Some have +12v and Ground wires to the battery (like the GS), while others just have one wire running to the +12, and use the chassis as ground.  As you can tell from the Electrex troubleshooting diagram, the A/C voltage produced by various bike models' stators is generally in the same range, so the only difference is amperage..

The biggest differences are: unit condition (quality control has never been too good in R/Rs), size (ability to dissipate heat: more amps = more heat), and how well it fits on the GS (if it gets too close to the plastic tailpiece, it could melt the plastic).  You should be able to just go to the bone yard and find one.  The old GSResources board had some postings that Honda R/Rs were better quality than Suzuki :dunno:.  

If the replacement R/R passes the diode test, you could hook it to your three AC windings and check what voltage it produces.  If it still looks good, screw it on and solder.  You probably will have to solder the wiring, but the built-in plastic connectors are known to corrode and fail anyways.

That said, it is likely that someone here has one or two sitting around, and it's nice to keep the "custom" bits to a minimum if you want to avoid ratbike-syndrome .  When my R/R failed, I got one here; the price was right, so why not?

I have a regulator/rectifier that Ed_in_Az tossed in when he sold me his 2000.  But I can't remember what the story is on it.  (Good / bad / unknown)

I'd be willing to send it to you no matter what condition it's in, but you might want to contact Ed and see what he can tell you about it.

what we need  is someone with a Very SOLID (Cough) and the tools to Built a nearly Bullet proof R/R for the GS members at a irresistable low price. someone who knows where to get and assmble the componets without Taxing the Grey matter or initial costs to wallet.


Or posibly make a tester that plugs into the harness between stator and R/R and can test everything or show status with LED's

Funny this thread pops up...
I just had my stator replaced yesterday.

There is always the option to splice the wires from the stator directly into the wiring harness. I haven't done this yet, but the GSResources forum that someone else mentioned might be of help in this area.

Quote from: Blueknytwhat we need  is someone ...to Built a nearly Bullet proof R/R for the GS members at a irresistable low price....Or posibly make a tester that plugs into the harness between stator and R/R and can test everything or show status with LED's

That is kinda where I am going with taking xrays of the R/R and slowly building a database of stator resistances. This weekend I spent some time with a friend and discussed a project idea for testing stator windings. When testing at Dgyver's, I found my LCR meter to be less than ideal when it comes to the connections. It may be best to use an insulation penetration method...or not.

The idea is an electronic gadget that connects to all three windings and gives a red-yellow-green output depending on the inductance of the  windings. It could/should also have a switch to flip and test for shorts to ground/chassis, but that would require another lead to the bike. I can't commit buckets of time to this yet....finals in two weeks.

Besides these ideas, I am still wrenching on my bike and the weather is getting better. Aaaaggghh!  :lol:

when i get my replacement, your more than welcome to my old one if you wanna pay shipping.  Dunno if its any help or not, but whatever

 

OK Starwalt ... get a R/R and drop it in acetone for a day or 2 ... the goo will have disappeared and you'd see the board and components just fine ... see I was hoping i would get a bad one as well as a bad black box and fiddle ... but now since you have been elected the GS electrical genius ... its you ... BTW I may have a fried black box and some sorta relay off this busted up maxim to add to the pile ...
Now the coil test you were doing ... I always thought it was the fact that the resistance is linearly dependent on length of wire ... and the coils are also dependent on that same length ... so inductance is proportional to resistance ... so shorted out coils = lower inductance as well as lower resistance ... But well shorted coils may add to inductance but not resistance ... Oh well I have no clue ...
Cool.
Srinath.

Im trying to purchase one from a guy on here, so if he falls thru, Ill take it.  Ill pm you with my addy, an u can find out how much shipping will be.

Quote from: seshadri_srinath... I always thought it was the fact that the resistance is linearly dependent on length of wire ...

This is correct, but also dependent on the cross sectional area of the wire AND the wire material (think Aluminum vs Copper wire).

Quote from: seshadri_srinath...and the coils are also dependent on that same length ...

This is not quite correct. The length is a by-product of the number of turns of wire. The resistance is mostly a DC property. Inductance is an AC property.

Quote from: seshadri_srinathso inductance is proportional to resistance ...

Inductance is determined by the size of the wire, the diameter of the the loop, the spacing between loops, and the number of loops. Inductance is a magnetic phenomena we take advantage of.

Quote from: seshadri_srinath... so shorted out coils = lower inductance as well as lower resistance ...

This is correct, but only because there is less wire and shorted out loops  and turns. Think of this like a Slinky, you know that spring toy you can stretch for miles. If you clamp together sections of the Slinky, you have less spring and less "boing" per Slinky. You have "shorted" parts of the coil together AND reduced the electrical length, resistance, of the Slinky.

Quote from: seshadri_srinath..But well shorted coils may add to inductance but not resistance ... Oh well I have no clue ...

Nope. Shorted coils = less inductance ...but the R,L relationships are viewed with duality. To make matters worse, inductance is also dependent on FREQUENCY.   It is a difficult subject to get your arms around. The mechanical analogies are helpful, but something is lost in translation.  A FAQ on the electrical sections is running around the back of my head. It would be great to have John Bates, JeffD, or Jared team up with me on it.