okie.  As most of you know I can't wrench very well, though I'm doing my best to learn via a bunch of different projects.

I need to take off my carbs to send to Srinath, so he can make them run just right (with that special Srinath touch of goodness).    Has anyone here used their clymer's as their guide?  Was it relatively easy to follow?  I'm planning on taking them off the bike asap, I just don't want to get over my head.   Thanks guys.

I recently took my carbs off to replace the float bowl screws and adjust the floats.  Taking it apart was easy, and, thanks to duct tape and a Sharpie, routing the hoses wasn't too bad afterward.  This was the first time I had done any serious wrenching on my bike, and it wasn't nearly as painful as I thought it would be.

Biggest PITA by far was getting the airbox back in.  Jeeez, I want to get pods just because of that, really.  I found that pulling the carbs off the engine intakes and attaching the carbs' air intakes to the airbox, then cramming the carbs back onto the engine inlets was easier than putting the airbox in with the carbs fixed in place.  Helped me to remove the petcock, too.

Clymer was useful and relatively easy to follow.  Tip:  Do not have a full tank of gas!  If I have a bunch of gas in my tank I siphon off excess into my car so I don't have to do any weightlifting while I try to turn off the gas tank valve...

I'm sure others have more tips... and don't worry about your carbs, they'll be in good hands with Srianth.

Taking the carbs off isn't difficult, it just might try your patience a little getting them separated from the intake boots and airbox boots. Believe it or not that's the hardest part. Be sure to unhook the fuel line, throttle cable and choke cable. And here's the great part, Srinath may even tell you this. Cleaning, rebuilding, and rejetting the carbs is no more difficult than removing them. If you're unsure of you mechanical abilities it still would be a good idea to have Srinath go over them.

Derek

Thanks Glean and Derek!

I've done my own valve adjustment so Im getting more comfortable, but I've kind of had problems getting the carbs right with the stealer, so I'm not taking any more chances.

It shouldn't be a big problem, probably just jetting.   When I'm in first gear it seems to bog down and almost die if I give it too much throttle. I've noticed this especially in colder weather... 60 degrees as oppossed to 85 degrees.   To compensate for this, the dealer mechanic put like a piece of hose in the air filter to block some of the air.  It helped somewhat, but I'm still riding the clutch and reving slowly to 5000 rpms in order to get going without it almost dying.

From the FAQ page:

http://www.angelfire.com/mt2/mikesgs500/rejetting/

Looks like it takes you step by step.......I may be doing this soon myself......still having run away idle problems when hot.

Wayne

Quote from: JCHThanks Glean and Derek!

I've done my own valve adjustment so Im getting more comfortable, but I've kind of had problems getting the carbs right with the stealer, so I'm not taking any more chances.

It shouldn't be a big problem, probably just jetting.   When I'm in first gear it seems to bog down and almost die if I give it too much throttle. I've noticed this especially in colder weather... 60 degrees as oppossed to 85 degrees.   To compensate for this, the dealer mechanic put like a piece of hose in the air filter to block some of the air.  It helped somewhat, but I'm still riding the clutch and reving slowly to 5000 rpms in order to get going without it almost dying.

Its somehting screwed up ... pilots maybe, float level or some else ... like that carb i opened up to find no spring under the air screw and needles bent like a banana ... I'll never be surprised by what I find in  "mechanic tuned " carb. And heck the brass cap was on the carb ... so factory screw up.
Cool.
Srinath.

Srinath, as a follow up to this...

I was just outside running the bike and playing with the throttle (not enough time to take the carbs off yet) and I noticed the following.  The bike almost dying when I throttle... if I do it fast enough there seems to be almost a pop sound coming from the front of the bike.... might that be some release in back pressure?  If so, is this an attribute of my problem?  A cause maybe?

I know I know, just send the damn things.  But just making sure I know where my problems lie.

Also, when you rejet....  do you think we should rejet for the stock airbox and filter?  or should I use the pod I've just put up for sale (no bites yet).  I just want it to run correctly. Dont care about +5 hp or whatever

Opening throttle and pop ... lean most likely ... OK Keep the K&N, I'll jet it for Airbox, and include the jets ($6 for the mains ...) for K&N. You run one, then the other and decide. I'd do Airbox if the bike got low miles, and K&N if its over say 20K ... it does reduce life of upper end, cyls and pistons ... but I guess no sense saving those if your cams are dying and that's maybe 50K ... so Big deal ... 30K wiht K&N wont hurt any more ... But low mile newish motor, airbox with paper is my choice.
Cool.
Srinath.

Its completely up to your judgement.... The bike has 14,400 so maybe stock and paper is better.  

did you do the secret native american carb dance? that will solve all your problems

OK I'll do that, and if you want add the mains for the K&N ... run both before you decide, and you'd prolly put 10K in a year ... so maybe hold on to it for next year.
Cool.
Srinath.