My bike had...

147.5 main jets
.40 pilot jets
2 shims on the needle
Air/Fuel mix screw at 2.5 turns

It now has
122.5 mains
.40 pilots
No shims on the needle

and I have no idea where to put the Air / Fuel mix screws to start..

At some point, I saw a chart on this.. Anyone have that chart, or any advise for me?

How does the bike run now with the screws 2.5 turns out? If it feels like its hesitating, turn them out half a turn at a time til it runs decent. I think the max is 4 turns out.

Quote from: scratchHow does the bike run now with the screws 2.5 turns out? If it feels like its hesitating, turn them out half a turn at a time til it runs decent. I think the max is 4 turns out.

The other issue I am having is a very slow return to zero..
It will wind up Rpm's and then come back down very slowly..

Will backing that A/F mixture screw out help or hurt that?

Backing the screw out will help that by adding more fuel/air (more fuel than air), because a slow return to idle means it's lean. If that doesn't fix it you may have to adjust your float height higher so that the fuel level is at the top of the float bowl making it more rich.

Quote from: FaxxxyMy bike had...

147.5 main jets
.40 pilot jets
2 shims on the needle
Air/Fuel mix screw at 2.5 turns

It now has
122.5 mains
.40 pilots
No shims on the needle

and I have no idea where to put the Air / Fuel mix screws to start..

At some point, I saw a chart on this.. Anyone have that chart, or any advise for me?

I believe that your main jet is too small.  Even with a stock exhaust and air filter most everyone goes up on the main jet size to improve running and response - If you have either an aftermarket exhaust or air filter set-up you will be extremely lean at full throttle.

Quote from: mjmI believe that your main jet is too small.  Even with a stock exhaust and air filter most everyone goes up on the main jet size to improve running and response - If you have either an aftermarket exhaust or air filter set-up you will be extremely lean at full throttle.

Very well could be..
On the advise of the lead mechanic at the local shop, I went back with a stock mainjet due to stock exhaust..

According to him, you do not have to rejet for the air filter, only the exhaust.

Quote from: Faxxxy

Quote from: mjmI believe that your main jet is too small.  Even with a stock exhaust and air filter most everyone goes up on the main jet size to improve running and response - If you have either an aftermarket exhaust or air filter set-up you will be extremely lean at full throttle.

Very well could be..
On the advise of the lead mechanic at the local shop, I went back with a stock mainjet due to stock exhaust..

According to him, you do not have to rejet for the air filter, only the exhaust.

Unless he is referring to a K&N filter that goes into the stock air-box he is wrong. TheEuropean and Canadian bikes all got richer jets than the US bikes - ours are lean for emmissions reasons and it makes them run less well than the other markets bikes and take much longer to warm up.

Going to at least the European jetting will help quite a bit for a box stock bike.  Do anything to make the engine pump more air and the stock US jetting is too lean - backfiring on open/closed throttle transition, excessive warm-up time etc.

On the GS the major restriction in the air path is the airbox and stock filter.  Change to pods and be prepared to go up quite a few sizes to get the 3/4 to  full throttle mix right.

Quote from: mjmUnless he is referring to a K&N filter that goes into the stock air-box he is wrong. TheEuropean and Canadian bikes all got richer jets than the US bikes - ours are lean for emmissions reasons and it makes them run less well than the other markets bikes and take much longer to warm up.

Going to at least the European jetting will help quite a bit for a box stock bike.  Do anything to make the engine pump more air and the stock US jetting is too lean - backfiring on open/closed throttle transition, excessive warm-up time etc.

On the GS the major restriction in the air path is the airbox and stock filter.  Change to pods and be prepared to go up quite a few sizes to get the 3/4 to  full throttle mix right.

Do we know what the european jet size is?
I do in fact have the pod K&N filter.
I have *AWESOME* throttle response after 6 grand.. Its getting it up to 6 grand that has been the bear..

One of my major problems now is a slow return to idle..
It returns slow, but it seems to catch at 3 grand and settle in for a second before it continues to idle..

I know for a fact that one of my jet needles is bent.. No one local has one so I didnt put one in when I did the jets..

I need to order one in..

Quote from: Faxxxy

Do we know what the european jet size is?
I do in fact have the pod K&N filter.
I have *AWESOME* throttle response after 6 grand.. Its getting it up to 6 grand that has been the bear..

One of my major problems now is a slow return to idle..
It returns slow, but it seems to catch at 3 grand and settle in for a second before it continues to idle..

I know for a fact that one of my jet needles is bent.. No one local has one so I didnt put one in when I did the jets..

I need to order one in..

The various jets are listed in the back of the Chilton manual - I seem to have misplaced mine and won't be looking for it for a while as I am having some surgery early next week - I m sure that Srinath can chime in with the european sizes - the manual also lists the european needles - since you are ordering anyway it might make sense to order those.

A hanging idle is a sign that the bike is lean.  If the slide moves smothly up and down the needle is pro probably not causing the hanging idle problem.

try going to http://66.47.68.116/tech/carbtun.html - the factory pro site for how to tune a CV carb - best advice on the web for how to and also check the jetting matrix (use search) - On my 2001, before I put on a pipe, I recall that about a 135 ~ 137.5 was an OK main jet.