does anyone know what the manual says to torque the oil filter plate to?

Actually I think it only lists it as "securely".
10ft/lb is plenty

I use a nut driver (like a screwdriver), and don't twist too hard; a ratchet is not needed.

Just tight enough to ensure that the little gasket is in good contact with both surfaces (perfectly clean, of course, and sitting snugly in its groove) all the way around.  Too tight and the gasket will crush and fail. Way too tight and you will snap the studs.  Best way is to snug up the nuts evenly all round, take it for a test run to get the oil hot and under pressure. Then check for leaks.  If there are any, tighten just a little bit more all the way around.

just an FYI the disc brakes are only 20ft/lbs
oil filter cap is 13ft/lbs....

I found out the hard ways :x  :x  :x  :x  :x  one broken oil filter cap stud that had to drilled and taped and a warped rotor/striped wheel....THE BEST THING is to get a tourque wrench and match all the tourque specs evenly. Remember that rubber expands 2x it's volume when heated, AKA- presure seal.

BE VERY CAREFUL when torquing these bolts!!! :x  :x  :x  :x

If you are using a torque wrench, you need an extension to get there.  THIS CHANGES EVERYTHING!  I am not sure what the exact setting should be with the extension but it is NOT 13lb.  Just snapped one about 15 min ago.  I read this thread and thought to myself, "hey self, why don't we go out there and make sure you have those torqued to the correct specs".  Well, that was a stupid a$$ thing to do, considering it was doing just fine before I broke the mother off!!!!!! :x  :x  :x  :x  :x

Like I said, I do not know exactly what they should be, but my advice now would be to bring them down evenly, then snug them up to make sure the seal is there.

Now, no riding until I can get this fixed.  That blows................

I have heard that before....but how does an extension affect the torque amount? I fail to see how a rotational torque is affected by a length perpendicular to the force.  :dunno:

fyi....torque wrenches are not accurate in their upper and lower ranges.

If anything using an extension would make the actual torque value lower than indicated on the wrench. Adding anything to otherwise direct contact will do this. But just an extension on a wrench would be so small, it'd be insignificant, unless you were using a few u-joints. Even still, it'd be too small to worry.

I think either your bolts were already bad, or your wrench was way off. 13 lbs is not much. If using a wrench or ratchet, you'd have to choke up on it to not use it's full leverage. The nut-driver is a good recommendation.

Quote from: dgyverfyi....torque wrenches are not accurate in their upper and lower ranges.

Yep, and if you've ever used one as a hammer, you might as well throw it away  :lol:

I think just using my common sense of how tight to tighten those damn bolts would have been the best bet.  I am FURIOUS that I went out there and did that for no reason at all.  One of those, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it things".  I know better than that.  Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

We've all been there, man! Happens!

First thing I did on my bike was break one of those damn bolts...

I'd say... Snug...  See if it leaks.  If it does leak, the seal is probably off. Reseat the seal... DON'T tighten more... or you'll end up with a pic like this  :x

thx to all that replied... i just finshed my first oil change and what a difference fresh oil does. my bike now shifts a lot smoother.  

I just went to change in oil in my 97 GS500 that I purchase used two weeks ago and guess what?  go to take the lower nut of the oil filter pressure plate and out comes the stud, BROKEN!.  You can tell it was broken before and the little bit you could thread back in was stripped.  They just used a bunch of RTV to seal it and placed the stud back in.

So, what the best way to drill it out and put a new stud in?  Does anyone know what size it is?  I will have to use a Helicoil since they partially stripped out the block.

Quote from: Richard UKJust tight enough to ensure that the little gasket is in good contact with both surfaces (perfectly clean, of course, and sitting snugly in its groove) all the way around.  Too tight and the gasket will crush and fail. Way too tight and you will snap the studs.  Best way is to snug up the nuts evenly all round, take it for a test run to get the oil hot and under pressure. Then check for leaks.  If there are any, tighten just a little bit more all the way around.

As Richard says, this is a bit tougher than it looks.

I had a dickens of a time getting the seal to work.  Drooled out oil, and the obvious thought is to pull up on those 8mm cap nuts.

Not the best idea for all the reasons Richards mentions.

The trick that has worked for me is to use some grease in the recess to hold the gasket and add to the seal.  I found I can now tighten 'til "tight" -- that's my technical reference for a bit of a twist more than "secure".  I have yet to have another oil leak since using grease.

Quote from: ECBI just went to change in oil in my 97 GS500 that I purchase used two weeks ago and guess what?  go to take the lower nut of the oil filter pressure plate and out comes the stud, BROKEN!.  You can tell it was broken before and the little bit you could thread back in was stripped.  They just used a bunch of RTV to seal it and placed the stud back in.

So, what the best way to drill it out and put a new stud in?  Does anyone know what size it is?  I will have to use a Helicoil since they partially stripped out the block.

It's a 6mm stud. Drilling it out could be tricky, but you didn't need me to tell you that.

A stud extractor is your best bet, but it'll be hell to line up the drill in the middle of that itsy-bitsy hole and miss the threads, especially if the bike is not elevated.  I'd almost be tempted to take the front wheel off so you can get at it straight-on.

Unsure if I'd use heat to expand the surounding metal, but it's another thought.  Obvious to me that the former owner figured it was more trouble than it was worth.

Sorry I can't be of more help.  It's not a nice problem to have.  

As far as torquing the bolts, using a nutdriver like the others said would probably be smart. A 1/4" drive socket should also be about the right size to feel the bolts draw up but not overtighten. I hate to see you guys break bolts like that but I've done it myself.

Thanks Redshift & DerekNC for the suggestions and information   .  It seems like all the Suzuki dealers around me take Mondays off  :dunno:  so I can't get a new stud today.  I plan on drilling out the broken stud tonight, wish me luck

This is alittle diffent question but in the winter I like to change my oil but not the filter and then in the spring I like to change both of them. So I was wondering what do you torque the dran plug?

the drain plug is the same tourque spec of 13ft/lbs. However it's a 13/16 or a 11/16 [can't remember off the top of my head] or atleast mine was....It should be metric in motor operation manuals...NE-ways ya tourque wrenches you get what you pay for. The cheap-o 9.99 at Sears are calibrated to the nearest 1ft/lb.... 1/13=not good for little things.....I go snug then 1/8 of a turn more w/ a 1/4" drive 10mm wrench and it works great like someone said with a dabble of white lithium grese. Also make sure before you put the seal on that it's spotless clean where the gasket goes and hits the motor...I mean I had to scrape the gasket material last time and then use some fine sand paper to clean it up. Good news the time you put in now will be well worth the effort than putting in a quart of oil every 1k miles

Ya on a side not I busted the wheel tourques last time too...had to drill and tap...Get his tho I was tightening it down w/ a 1/2" drive impact wrench good for 350ft/lbs  It all snaped in a matter of a second....so I bought  snap-on tourque wrench after that [nice one w/ digital read out and all the nice little things you never use] ....I was putting my 2and car back together at the time anyways and knew I needed one for the cyl. head...didn't want to screw that up...