Well my bike used to look like this


I planned on making it look like this


And now it looks like this


Not a bad job, even if I say so myself.

Lessons learned?

Buy a decent engine degreaser, really it makes it SO much easier to get the surface ready for the paint.
Gloss paint is a pain to get a good finish with, Satin finish paints are easy to use.
You only really need to remove the wheels, chain, tank seat and side panels before spraying, everything else is easy to mask.


I now have 2 problems left over.
Firstly I seem to be getting fuel in 'prime' and 'reserve' settings, but in 'run'  the float bowls dry up and the engine stumbles and dies.
I believe the fact it's running in reserve means the vacuum activation is working ok. I guess it must be a kink or blockage in the main line
from the tank to the petcock.
YES I do have fuel, I thought of that and refilled the tank, but it didn't help.

The 2nd problem is intermittent operation on my indicators.

Front right never works,
Front left normally works, but not always
Rear right normally works, but not always
Rear left never works.
Dashboard light works as long as at least one other light is working,
and sometimes when no other lights are wotking, or sometimes nothing happens at all.[/list:u]HELP

try taking the tank off and checking the fuel lines,  and on the lights it sounds like you aren't gettign a good ground.

Quote from: red_philThe 2nd problem is intermittent opperation on my indicators....HELP

Ok my friend, I hope you can read simplified schematics. Mind you this is of the US version, but very nearly the same as the UK. I drew some up just for this occasion. What you see are thumbnails.
First the turn signal circuit...

Then the lighting circuit...

Let me know if you have trouble with this.

There are many, many more photos in the photo album section of my webpage. Click on the word "here" in my signature.

BTW, congrats on getting her back together. I am turning the corner on my rebuild also.

just a quick hijack,

what windscreen was that in the top two pics??

ok done hijacking  

Quote from: red_philI seem to be getting fuel in 'prime' and 'reserve' settings, but in 'run'  the float bowls dry up and the engine stumbles and dies.
I believe the fact it's running in reserve means the vacuum activation is working ok. I guess it must be a kink or blockage in the main line
from the tank to the petcock.

I second your guess about a blockage associated with the main fuel line.  But if you pull that hose and find no blockage, check the upper part of the "fuel strainer" inside the tank.

Quote from: KerryI second your guess about a blockage associated with the main fuel line. But if you pull that hose and find no blockage, check the upper part of the "fuel strainer" inside the tank.

eww, that'd be a pain.
I am now wondering if I remembered to take the masking off of the fuel line or if i just pushed it down the tube with the nipple on the tank.

Quote from: What?!just a quick hijack,
what windscreen was that in the top two pics??
ok done hijacking

I added that screen for a long motorway trip.
Thing is I'm not really too keen on how it looks.
I've taken it off just now, but i'll stick it back on for long trips on the open road.  
It's surprising how much such a small screen reduces the wind.

Quote from: StarwaltOk my friend, I hope you can read simplified schematics.

Schematics are not a problem. Relating them to the grimy hidden wires on the bike can be however. Luckily I remembered to mask the wires,
so I don't have matte black wiring for everything.

Quote from: StarwaltBTW, congrats on getting her back together. I am turning the corner on my rebuild also.

Thanks. One of the main pains was trying to get that ridiculously large air box back into place without crimping or squashing anything.
I had to do a little respray around the airbox once I'd scuffed it all up getting the box back in.

Quote from: davipuon the lights it sounds like you aren't gettign a good ground.

Yeah, hopefully it's just one wire knocked loose.
My real fear is that when refitting the airbox or tank I've managed to crush a bundle of wires causing shorts and open circuits.

Then again, the tail lights, headlights, instrument lights, horn, ignition and headlamp all still work just fine, so it's have to be one of the smaller bundles.  
Any hints on where the main grounding points to the frame are attached? perhaps I've insulated something with spray paint.

Thanks for the help all.

Quote from: red_philAny hints on where the main grounding points to the frame are attached?

This old picture was taken from the right side of the rear wheel.  It shows the main ground (or "earth" ) connection, partially obscured by the drain hoses that come out near the right footpeg.

Thanks kerry,
I think I know where that is.
It's like those closeup shots of everyday things that you can never identify until the camera pulls back.

Quote from: red_philI added that screen for a long motorway trip.
Thing is I'm not really too keen on how it looks.
I've taken it off just now, but i'll stick it back on for long trips on the open road.  It's surprising how much such a small screen reduces the wind.

ok so what windscreen is it?  what's it called?  i need wind reduction w/o a huge bullet fairing.

ps, bike looks pretty pretty painted.  considering it hehe...

OK tonight I checked the continuity of my wiring with my trusty multi meter.
and played with the fuel pipes.

Good news is that I now have fully functional fuel supply again.
It looks like the main fuel line got squished down the side of the air box when I put that back in.

On the erratic indicators front, I found a problem.
The black with white stripe wires from anything inside the headlight  housing has no connection back to the -ve terminal of the battery.

The earth wiring from the starter relay to the battery is fine,
so it must be the wiring somewhere inside the wrapped harness that runs from the starter relay forwards to the headlight  etc.

The confusing thing it the anything up front works at all.
i.e. there was no connection from the main headlight to the battery,
no connection from the 'parking' light , no connection from either indicator.
Yer the main beam and parking light work fine, as does the horn, and the
instrument lights and starter switch for that matter.
How is this possible if I've cut/crimped/crushed the earth line from up front back to the battery?
Could it all be earthing (badly) through the frame? :dunno:

Quote from: red_phil..How is this possible if I've cut/crimped/crushed the earth line from up front back to the battery? Could it all be earthing (badly) through the frame? :dunno:

That is what I think it would try to do. The connection from the earth (negative for us US types) of the battery into the wiring harness is accomplished with a connector resulting in a pair of small black/white wires.  The connector is immediately off the battery cable. Black/white is almost universally earth on this bike.

Here's a pic of it on my rebuild project...
Another shot of the same from a different angle... Notice the single wire off the battery connection becomes two wires into the harness. This is the only reliable path from the battery to the wiring harness.

Ignore my red battery box. I decided to jazz up the rebuild. It was stripped, primed, and painted with PlastiDip as an added measure of protection. Battery acid tends to be rough on this item. I decided a mostly red bike needed a red battery box.  

windscreen brand?

oops, sorry about the windscreen.
It was a present from someone at work who no longer used it.
I'll have a look see if there are any identifying marks on the brackets when I get home.

Looking at the wiring diagram (it's currently my PC wallpaper)
I see the black/white wire from the starter relay to the battery.
This connection was fine, however any black/white wire in the headlight body was disconnected. On the wiring diagram this puts the break somewhere in the wire that runs from the front of the bike back to the starter relay.

Quote from: red_phil...This connection was fine, however any black/white wire in the headlight body was disconnected. On the wiring diagram this puts the break somewhere in the wire that runs from the front of the bike back to the starter relay.

More than one thread has been written on pinched wiring at the steering stem area. If not careful, the harness could become scissored by the steering stops...if they are there.

A color coded Haynes schematic is floating around this board. I made the simplified ones for circuit specific problems. It helps me to see only the wiring specific to the trouble at hand.

You could use a jumper (aka "gator clip") to test the wiring break to confirm your reading with the VOM (or DMM depending on your tool). When I replaced the tape wrapping on the harness of my 90 project, I found several junctions in the harness that are not really documented. The fabricator used mechanical crimps to make these junctions. Documenting those is a rainy day project.

Well the fuel line isn't fixed
The GS can run a surprisingly long time on what is in the float bowls when at idle.

After a search turned up this diagram
http://www.bbburma.net/FuelHoseRouting.htm
I think I sussed the fuel problem.

I Have the 'run' fuel line connected correctly from tank to tap.
I have the reserve line from the tank connected to the 'fuel out' nipple on the tap.
I have the 'fuel out' pipe connected to the 'reserve' nipple on the tap.

So in 'on' position the fuel comes down the on pipe and is directed through to the
'fuel out' nipple. This tries to put it back up the reserve hose into the tank.
No worky!

In the reserve position, the fuel comes down the reserve pipe into the 'fuel out' nipple
and is directed to the 'reserve' nipple which is connected to the 'fuel out' pipe.
so the motor runs.

oops.
I'm sure the Haynes manual description is wrong. *mutters*

Quote from: red_philoops, sorry about the windscreen.
It was a present from someone at work who no longer used it.
I'll have a look see if there are any identifying marks on the brackets when I get home.

k just post whenever then  

freeway wind = teh suck!

I'm afraid there are no markings on the windscreen.

I found this site that is selling something similar

http://www.evamotor.nl/Daytona/daytona_japan_special_parts_for3.htm#WINDSCREEN
it's for a Yamaha SR 500 apparently.

wow, is that really how it mounts?  it looks like it mounts different in your pics.  got anymore pics?  like of the front view?  i actually like how your screen looks...

so how's the re-wiring goin?

Yeah, the windscreen is a simple piece of curved, tinted, polycarbonate with 4 holes in it. There are 2 'L' shaped brackets that screw bolt onto the screen and the headlight securing bolts go through the lugs at the bottom of these brackets.
You could probably make one pretty easily if you can figure out how to bend the screen into a nice curve. (Heat?)

I asked the guy I got it from, but it was on one of his 2nd hand bikes when he got it (it was an old motto Guzzi).

The re-wiring is going ok.
I think I have it down to one of 2 wires. Tonight I should get some cable from my girlfriend's dad to try a bypass of the suspected broken cables.

Well I was right about what I had done wrong with the fuel lines.
It looks like the haynes description refers to the petcock fitting with 'front' meaning towards you as you face it. I thought front would mean towards the front of the bike. Ah well.

As for the wiring, I checked everything.  It was all fine but perhaps a little high on resistance through a few of the bullet clips.
I took them out, filed them clean and crimped them with pliers once in place.
After that everything was smiles and working indicators.

I've spent the past week using hand signals. Not too bad in town, but on the motorway at 70 MPH it is tricky. Especially signalling right to overtake (I'm in the UK). I have to take my hand off the throttle at 70 MPH, signal, then get back up to speed to overtake.