I keep finding things that aren't quite right with my bike. First was the chain and sprockets, but $250 later they should be fine.

Noticed lately that if I'm lazy and start it while in first gear it lurches as it starts (I know, MSF gurus, FINE-C, but sometimes I'm a dork).  So for fun tonight I put it on the centerstand, started it in neutral, and shifted to first. In first gear, with the clutch in, the rear tire spins at idle. let the clutch out, it speeds up. Clutch in, shift to neutral, spins til I hit the rear brake.

Can I possible adjust the clutch cable and fix this, or do I have a potentially $$$$$$$ problem on my hands?  Clutch engagement is deeper in the range of motion than a dirt bike I rode, but could there be so much slack that it doesn't totally disengage?

Appreciate any thoughts.

yep it could be, whare is the friction zone in the clutch lever range of motion?

Hard to describe the friction zone since I'm used to a car with a pedal.  I'd say the beginning of the friction zone is is 20% into the travel, with the end at 40-50%?  There's a fair bit of travel left after the motor spins freely (clutch engaged, motor disengaged.)


I could always go back downstairs and mess with it, but that seems about right. Should it be fairly instant when I grab the lever?

I thought that all bikes would spin the rear wheel when it's on the centerstand, even with the clutch pulled.  But with the bike down off the centerstand, and me sitting on it, mine doesn't seem to want to roll forwards with the clutch pulled.

Does anybody have a GS where you can have the bike up on the centerstand, running, in gear, clutch in...  and the wheel won't spin?

Can I adjust the clutch by using the barrel adjustment on the lever, or do I need to go thru the whole clymer method with removing the adjuster cover and checking the specs on the engine end of the cable as well? Assume the lever end is pointless otherwise?

Quote from: Grainbeltdo I need to go thru the whole clymer method with removing the adjuster cover and checking the specs on the engine end of the cable as well?

Only if you want the job done right.   Setting clearance for the clutch pushrod is a 10 minute job.  You got Clymer, no sweat.  Then you can adjust the cable free-play from either end.  

i know that mine does that, i mean spin the rear wheel while on its centerstand in first with the clutch pulled.  I Can feel it bum a little in the morning when it is cold and i start it.  I think it has to do with the oil more so than the clutch.

I wouldn't worry about that at all.  Mine does that with cold oil.  That's why I start in neutral.  After 30 seconds to a minute, it's ready to go.

ALL wet clutch bikes will do this when cold - if it does lurches as you go into gear after it is warmed up, adjust the clutch.  Otherwise it is normal.