I was trying to figure out how old my tires are and found a thread that said you got to look at the stamp on the tire and the last four digits will tell you... well here

http://ravichev.com/moto/

you can find pics of all the stamps I could locate on my tires (first three are front wheel, last one is rear wheel). But I still cannot figure it out . Anyone can help?

Thanks!

I posted this in the "Are these tires old?" thread:

To know how old a tire is, have a look at the sidewall.  You'll find a date code cast there:



It may be a part of a longer code but whatever, the last four numbers give the week and the year that the tire was made. This tire was made in the 39th week of 2002. It's only good for the current decade, but if you have a tire that could be 10 years old, it's crap and should be replaced anyway.
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I learned afterward that if there are only three digits to the date stamp on your tire, then it was made before 2000.  But the same decoding method holds true -- if you see "392" it was made on the thirty-ninth week of 1992, or 1982, or 1972 etc.

The only code I recognize is this one:



and it decodes to the week of October 5-11, 1997, or multiples of 10 years earlier.

so the rear tire is at least 8 years old? should I replace it even if the tire doesn't look worn?

anyone can help me with the front tire? (first three pics) can it be that the first pic is the one I need? that will make it something like '93?

I guess I'll replace them altogether.

Quote from: Soaringso the rear tire is at least 8 years old? should I replace it even if the tire doesn't look worn?

anyone can help me with the front tire? (first three pics) can it be that the first pic is the one I need? that will make it something like '93?

I guess I'll replace them altogether.

Good idea.  I think the $200 you invest will be well spent in the safety and enjoyment that fresh rubber will bring.

Tires will harden and crack over time.  My first Bridgestone Exedra's were from 2000 and they didn't last more than 5600 miles.  Small cracks in the tread and less than 2mm left so I got BT-45's last year.  Man, what an improvement.  Got about 3500 miles on them and they still feel fresh.

I can barely make out 223 in your first pic, so if true that's May 31 - June 4 of 1993.  Yeah, I'd say even if there's tread left, go for new rubber.  You'll thank yourself.  

thanks for the info Red! I guess my next stop is chaparral

also, any dumb things/mistakes to look for when removing the wheels?

Replace ASAP.

Sport demons for sport riding...bt45's if you want at little more mileage out of them.

Quote from: Soaring...  any dumb things/mistakes to look for when removing the wheels?

It's fairly straight-forward if you spend a bit of time looking at the problem and plan for the consequences.  

I'd read up on the process via a Clymer or Haynes manual and go with what they say.  Sad to say I never have done it myself -- had the dealer do it and swallowed the cost 'cuz I didn't have the time to fuss with it.  But next time...

REPLACE!

this one is cracking...  Bad News...

Replace!  It's worth it.

ok, just read quite a few very nice threads on the subject (I am still amazed how much this forum rocks ) so I guess my biggest fears are not to stripe any bolts, not to put brake disks together, not to squeeze the brake after the wheel is removed and keep all the parts on the wheel while not loosing any of them.

well, let's see what happens..

Quotenot to squeeze the brake after the wheel is removed

LOL  :lol:

You must have read my post about changing my brakes....

You know...  You might just call around and see how much places charge to put them on for you.  I found quite a discrepancy in prices...  From $60 each to $30 for both.   :dunno:

Quote from: RVertigoI found quite a discrepancy in prices...  From $60 each to $30 for both.   :dunno:

Here you can drive in the bike and get the tyres replaced for $25, so $30 is a great price. Check they balance them too.

well, I am not sure if it's going to be cheap if I just bring the whole bike, talked to chaparral guys, they say it's 22.xx per wheel if I just bring the wheels, so I guess it'll be higher if I bring the whole bike.. as a zero budget adventurous student I think I am ready to dive into this wheel removal thing... but I'll probably call a few other places to see what they can offer.

btw, if somebody around Los Angeles area  (Verse?) knows just the perfect place to do it I'd be glad to hear from you! as much as I like to learn how to do stuff on my own with my talent of breaking things I always think twice... then look at my budget and do it myself  :mrgreen:

Cheap to call...  It might take a while, but once you find your place you're set.

Just look up moto places and start calling...  How much to install tires on bike vs off bike.

Some places will charge you less if you buy the tires from them.

where in LA are you? I live in North Hollywood, and theres a used bike repair shop on Magnolia called Marcelos...he swapped out a tire for me for 13 bucks...i took the rear tire off, and brought it in to him..got the tire from.   //www.mawonline.com

I am downtown LA (international student at USC). Will he replace the tire if I just bring the motorcycle to him?

Quote from: SoaringI am downtown LA (international student at USC). Will he replace the tire if I just bring the motorcycle to him?

yes, he is a full service shop...it'll just cost you more since he has to do the labor of taking the tire off the bike...and do you have the tire already? or will you be getting them through a shop? shop will cost more $$ too...good luck, pm me if you need more info

ok, now, I've read the threads on removing the wheels and I've read the parts of the manual on this topic. and in the manual in the caliper removal section it says that I have to bleed the system, while no thread mentiones that. do I need to bleed every time I remove a wheel? If so, I've read that you cannot mix the brands and I don't know what's in my bike right now, so what do I do? also bike was sitting for two years and I don't know when the brake liquid was changed last time, do I need to bleed anyways? what's a good brand and type (I saw some arguments for 5 vs 4... ). do I need any special tools?

thanks!

ok, slow down here tiger...you're asking a bunch of separate questions...
A) you do not have to bleed the brakes to remove the wheels..just don't depress the brake levers while the wheel is out...
B)if you're bike has been sitting that long, it may be a good idea to bleed the brakes anyway..I just did it, and it's very simple..do a search on it and you'll find a lot of helpful threads..I think there's a how to thread also...stay with DOT 4, no reason to swap...and see the threads for special tools...all you really need special is a length of tubing to attach to the bleeder valve