Ok... so I replaced my head and cylinder gaskets... here's the problem:

I was reinstalling my camshafts...  the exhaust camshaft has a #1 with an arrow next to it.  Its supposed to be parrallel with the head and pointing forward.  The problem is that the cam lobe on the left side was hitting the tappet shim (the cam lobe was facing directly down).  this made it impossible for the left end of the exhaust camshaft to fit into the head with the #1 and arrow being parrallel wtih the head.  So... like an idiot I settled for having the arrow point slightly higher than level with the head so as to allow the cam to sit in place properly.  

I made sure the #3 and the #2 arrows were exactly 18 pins apart (as instructed by clymer) and put the rest of the motor back together (proper torques, etc).  Upon trying to start the motor (which will not turn over) I hear a tick--- tick--- tick.... its a kind of deep metal click (like the lobe hitting the shim???) as the motor tries to turn.  I think my timing is off and that can be a big problem I know!!!



1. HAVE I BENT THE VALVES???
2. I'M A SCREWED???
3. HAVE I DIAGNOSED THIS PROBLEM ACCURATELY???
4. IS THIS NORMAL (i'm thinking not) OR NOT???
5. ANY IDEAS AND/OR HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED!!! :x

The way you set the timing with the cams rotated backwards is the same way I do mine. When rotating the motor backwards be careful, the timing chain must be kept tight as you risk it being kinked or it may jump a tooth on the crankshaft.

I mark the rotor button so I do not have to rotate the motor backwards.

Always rotate the cams forward to the location in the manual before starting, #1 horizontal. This way you can double check the timing. I will rotate the motor by hand several times to make sure nothing hits. If I feel any resistance, I will stop. The #1 parallel with head was always off slightly since I had MC cams and their timing had been altered.

Bending a valve depends on the timing setting when you were rotating the motor. There is an easy way to check for bent valve without removing the head. Pull the exhaust, carbs and plugs. Shine a light into the spark plug hole. Rotate the motor while looking into each of the in/ex ports. If you see light continuously through the cycle then you have bent a valve.

thanx... any others with advice???

I think you are off a tooth, or maybe the crank is 180 off.

Resetting the cams is always tricky and their is an art to it.  that left exhaust lobe is a PITA.

the way I do it is to leave the cam chain tension installed but backed all the way off. Place and start tightening down the cam holders as per the manual, but before the left exhaust lobe starts putting pressure on the valve, let the tensioner out so that if (when) the exhaust cam slips it takes the intake and crank with it so they all stays in time.

yeah and ALWAYS rotate the motor around by hand a few times to make sure you have it right, though you can have it wrong by one tooth each way and it will still rotate, but it won't run or will run like crap.

Good luck, I hope you didn't damage the motor.

just a side question, is your batt dead?

if you mean my battery (i think you do) no... its fine!  why for do you ask?

Hey guys... thanx so much... I'll try to get it workin again this weekend!!!  My fiance keeps hounding me about how its not ever gunna work so my pride requires it to!!!  JamesG--- special thanx to you man... your write up is gunna be a lot of help!!!  Another question though...

IF THE MOTOR NEVER TURNED OVER... HOW LIKELY IS IT THAT MY VALVES ARE SCREWED??? ( I CRANKED IT LIKE 6-7 TIMES)

OK HERE GOES...

WHEN YOU TAKE THE TIMING COVER OFF (I FORGET WHAT ITS CALLED) AND YOU HAVE TO USE A 19MM WRENCH TO BUT THE SHAFT/MOTOR IN THE CORRECT POSITION THERE ARE TWO MARKINGS ON IT.... THEY ARE (L/t and R/t)  I'M SURE I'M A MORON NOW... BUT DOES THE R/T LINE UP WITH THE RIGHT SIGNAL GENERATOR (ELECTRODE LOOKIN' THINGY) AND THE L/T LINE UP WITH THE RIGHT SIGNAL GENERATOR (OR ELECTRODE LOOKIN THINGY)?  CAUSE I THINK DAVIPU IS RIGHT... I LINED THE R/T WITH THE LEFT SIGNAL GENERATOR (i thought thats what clymers said to do... it was vauge kinda)... THAT WOULD MAKE MY CRANK 180 DEGREES OFF...

AM I 180 OFF?  
DID i DO IT RIGHT?
DOES THIS INSURE BENT VALVES??? (I THINK IT MIGHT)

bump... sorry... a wee bit desperate

The R-T points to the left pick-up.

I just got through replacing my cylinder head (specifically the cam caps, but I removed the whole head in case I needed to replace the whole thing) and had the same question when I was tightening the cam caps back up.  I believe the left lobe of the exhaust cam should be openeing the associated valve.  I spent a while double checking everything, was carefull when I torqued the caps and had no unexpected resistance (slight increase as each lobe opened the valve) while rotating the motor by hand.  I have put about 100 miles on the bike since and it seems to be running fine.  Am I right or did I screw up....anyone?

If you have 100 miles on it then it would be safe to say that you did it correctly.