I  can appreciate your logic, Maybe I will redo the drain. It is just hard to get to because of the confinement of it (exhaust pipe, and being upsidedown under a bike)

you will have plenty of room when you remove the exhaust...to safety wire the exhaust bolts.

anybody here still have "safety wire pliers" you know what I'm talking about.  
I haven't heard anyone talk about safety wire since I got out of the AF.

I have a couple pairs.  harbor frieght carries them for 15 bucks a pair.

The $15.00 HF ones suck compared to $75.00 MIL SPEC ones
but
are better than hand twisting

some times they go on sale for $8.00
also in 6 inch and 9 inch

I use the cheaper ones, guess I do not know what I am missing since I have never used any MIL Spec ones. Mine still make nice pretty twists. I used to be able to get them for $8 from a jewelery supply catalog.

Since we are critqueing...

Run the safety wire to that bolt on the top of the engine case behind the oil filler plug to a safety clip that will fit on the hole in the filler plug with just enough slack to get it on. That way you don't have to re do the wiring each time you change/check the oil. If WERA Tech is ok with it, I imagine just about anyone else will be.

I am confused about this safety wiring stuff...

how about just do something else (what I currently do), like re-torque every nut we can see and access with our tools, every few weeks?

is that what we are talking about here?

safety wiring for race bikes....
is to prevent bolts from coming out
even if properly torqued....really weird stuff happens to a race bike
with it safety wired it will only loosen...at most 1/4 turn

before I started racing...
I was riding my street bike one day and both caliper bolts came loose on one fork.  One bolt fell out and the other one was about 1 turn from falling out
since then every brake caliper has been wired....including my 50cc bikes
when i bought my RS-50, this spring, the front axle was loose....wired now