I've had a small trickle of oil coming out of one cylinder since I bought the GS.  It doesn't seem to be getting much worse, but it's starting to worry me...  Looks like the head gasket is leaking, according to what I can figure out... (Part # 8)

Since I don't really have a place work on it and probably don't have the tools I'd need (torque wrench) (and I'm stupid), I'm more than a little worried about doing it myself.

The shop says it would probably be around $350...  That would be replacing the Cyl Base Gasket, Cyl Head Gasket, Some other gasket (I could tell what he said 'cause he was talking really fast), and the Exhaust Gasket...  The shop manager said that when you replace the head gasket it can mess up the other gaskets and they should be replaced while you're in there anyway...

So... What do you all think?  Am I ok to ride around for a while and save up for the shop to do it or should I start begging for some help and get it done now?

Most of the cost of having a shop do the work is in the labor. Parts will be under $50 probably.
A couple of things to check first before giving your bike (and check book) over to the tender mercies of the mechanic:
Make sure that the tach line is secure. Its the cable that comes out of the top front of the head. If its loose, oil dribbles out around the screw and wind has a way of making it blow down and around the head making it look like a head/cylinder leak.
Check the torque on the cylinder stud nuts (big acorn nuts on the head, 4 around the spark plugs and 4 under the cam cover). It is the first thing the shop will check after you'v handed over that $350. These have a way of working loose over time, especally if they were never retorqued at the breakin service.  At least give then a tug to see if they are obviously loose if you don't want to shell out for a torque wrench.

Good luck!

try retorqueing the head bolts it will sometimes buy you alittle time,  its a leaky Oring  4-8$ each x 4, headgasket about 26$? might aswell as check and set valve clearences while  everything is off.

Isn't that what I said?

damn post Ho's.    

I was wondering about re-torquing the bolts...


See...  That's why you guys rule!

OK... SO...  I went down to Aurora to let them look at it...

The head mechanic said...  "Eh... That's nothin'.  Just put it off..."

He said the little amount that it was leaking wouldn't cause any damage as long as I made sure there was enough oil in it... Which I do anyway.  So, I think I'll procrastinate and buy some motorcycle pants instead.

do have the head torque checked thought.

and make sure you keep cleaning the dribble off so you can see if it gets worse and to prevent it from dripping onto the rear tire.

Quote from: JamesGdo have the head torque checked though.

Yeah... Good call...  Hmm... Now who has a torque wrench.  

Quote from: JamesGand make sure you keep cleaning the dribble off so you can see if it gets worse and to prevent it from dripping onto the rear tire.

 On my list!

Beam torque wrenches can be had for less than $15. Call it an investment.

or

Take it to the shop and tell them you will have the gasket done when you scrape up the money, but could they check the torque for you now real fast?

Speaking of torque wrenches i was looking at this one:

 Is it too pricey..?? good or bad deal..??  Thanx in advance..


http://www.pitposse.com/torquewrench.html

no, its bad.  The cool ones are the ones from garge sales, cost $1 and are the type that bend and move the lever manually.



like that..




:lol: Now that ive shown you mine, I have to tell you I think the newer type are cooler, and as long as you stop when it clicks, its ok.



Oh, and RVertigo Iv'e got one, but if you want to come up here, you'll have to find my spot I'll be riding around all day. so

ummm word to the wise...


Ya-re-check the tourque specs on the head now...99%sure their all tight b/c they are tourqued down pretty good when they assembled your engine. I think it's 42ft/lbs...not sure I have FZR specs and GS500 specs all messed up in my head right now.....However re-tourquing is going to stretch that bolt out even more. So you might have to go 1or2 ft/lbs more.

Ok little dial tourque wrenches are about as accurate as a regular wrench going the "snug" and a little more idea.....buy one that is either digital or of better quality. Sears/Craftsman makes a very nice 1/2 drive one for $49.99 I almost bought it to replace my Snap-on [it needed to be recalibrated $59] but anyways that a different story.

Moral of the story is that all the head bolts need to be EXACTLY the same so the gasket dosn't warp, the cyclinders are tuned together and compression is there.

OK just though mechanicaly...Do a cheap-o compression test at the shop[unless you have the tools] and see what the variance is across the two cylinders. If it's dramatic then ya Head Gasket is GONE and needs to be replaced.

Don't know your mechanical background but a head gasket is very simple to do provided you've already taken the bike down past the carbs/gas tank and know where all the lines/vacumes hoses go. If you do replace the gasket ALSO replace each of the head bolts and blow compressed air down the threads before instilation. Also kinda keep the workbench in a "steril" sort of environment...Dirt is bad :guns:  :guns: very bad. Hey also don't bea noodle head and not check the matting surfaces before re-assembly or you've wasted a perfectly good gasket. Put some VERY CLEAN rags down the cyl. after the head is off...incase you sneeze or something and well....   ya

Not a bad time tho just before the head pops off is to check the valves

From reading into his posts, I think he has neither the tools, work space, or mechanical inclination to tackle a top end job himself.

A cheapo beam torque wrench is plenty accurate enough for anything on a GS.  The best thing about them is that they never need calibration (just bend it back to "0" lol!) and you will never miss that click only to hear the second one of the bolt breaking.

Suzuki doesn't recommended/require that the cylinder studs be replaced at each tear down.  They are hella stout for as small an engine that they hold together.  They do however recommend that all major fasteners including the cylinder nuts be re-tightened to spec after the 600 mile breakin. My wife's GS had 3 that needed to be tightened up, so things do settle down or loose.

If he had a blown cylinder seal, he would be reporting additional symptoms, loss of power and blue smoke out the pipe and oil consumption.

Quote from: JamesG

If he had a blown cylinder seal, he would be reporting additional symptoms, loss of power and blue smoke out the pipe and oil consumption.

Not always as the oil "line" if you want to call it goes up on the rear part of the head. The oil leak it has looks something like a trickle. Blue smoke and oil consumption would mean a totaly blown gasket.

If your going to spend $45 on a gasket $5 more for new hardware is the best thing...The bolts stretch regardless if the engine is small. Replace them, nobody wants to re-build the top end twice because they opted not to replace the $.80 stud.