Well, It would, if it closed all the way. The idle adjust screw holds them open a bit. When you pulled yours, was there gas still in the float bowls? Did you tilt the carbs or pull the straight out. I had left the air box attached to it, so it came up and then pulling the carbs up and out at an angle.

Does anyone know if it is ok for the gas to leak out of the floatbowls when the carbs are tilted? I usually read (and did it that way before) that you should empty the bowls before taking the carb out.

Well, I did some more testing, and the left side is certainly the issue. The bike can run with no left side, but not the other way around. The left does work some though, because with no left at all (pulled plug cord) the bike is very underpowered and sluggish changing rpm's. It is smooth though, no hiccups (or whatever the problem I have is).

It certainly seems like it has pops into the carb. I just don't know why. or what would cause it. Searches have turned up alot, but they all seem to end in, "well I don't know what I did, but it works great now" or <something that I already checked, like corroded connections>.

Check the vacuum caps on the top of the carbs, where you normally would sync the carbs(i believe thats what they are for). Anywasys those are on manifold vacuum side so make sure they are not cracked, I have the same problem myslef at the moment, I suspect like mine, that it is the secoundary ground that srinath always talks about. Its watting for spring for me to get to it......but let me know if you figure it out

Hmm, ok. Lets see. The little black cap things seem good. No cracks, and not brittle.

As for the secondary ground, I checked the connector. I took it apart, and made it tighter, and stuck it back togather. I also ohm tested from both sides of the connector and got really low. I don't remember exactly, but it was like 1 or 2 or so. While I was doing that, I checked the connetors on the left side for ohm's through each connector. I also did the test for the coils (primary and secondary tests) and some other tests that I found that used the other connectors there. (like the 3 wire one)


While reading outside of this site (gasp) I came upon:

1) Defective accelerator pump
- - - nope, don't think that this bike has one, and don't know where it would be.
2) Metering rods or power valve sticking or binding.
- - - nope, same as above.
3) Vacuum leak.
- - - possible, Although It would have to be bwtween the left carb and left cylinder. I have done a wd40 test there, but may do another after I post this.
4) Float level setting very low.
- - - nope, I did someone's tube and gas level test, checked out right at the seal level. (I am under the impression that that is correct)
5) Plugged up fuel filter, defective fuel pump, or swollen or kinked lines.
- - - nope, no fuel delivery problem. Should affect both sides, right?
6) Secondary air valve set wrong.
- - - nope, same as first.
7) Ignition timing retarded/wrong
- - - could be, but I don't know how to check, or what it should be. Plus it should botther both sides, right?
8) Accelerator pump nozzle has dirt in it.
- - - no idea what this means
9) Accelerator pump cup swollen up from contact with bad gas or chemicals.
- - - no idea what this means
10) Economizer jet too small or partly blocked.
- - - again, no idea
11) Choke pull-off open too far.
- - - no, choke seems fine.
12) Secondary throttle plates not closing all the way.
- - - no, don't have them (I think?)
13) Vacuum hoses hooked up wrong.
- - - only one, and I think it is working. (should work, or not, right?) (I killed the CA smog stuff. I did cap the carb's part. (hooked a hose from one to another. I don't see how this would do it, but I'll try without it after this.)
14) Idle jet partly blocked with dirt.
- - - could be, but I did clean it out. Plus, if it was blocked, it shouldnt do it intermitly, right? There should be a pattern.. (ok this goes onto the list to check, near the bottom..)
15) Distributor timing not advancing properly. (worn breaker plate, worn shaft, pin hole in diaphram, crack in hose, etc.)
- - - Do we have something like this? I think if we have one per side, it might be that, because It seems to get worse when you rise the RPM's.
16) Idle air mixture wrong.
- - - It seems to me it wouldnt cause it to backfire through the carb. Either be rich, and then actually backfire/pop or lean and be hot.. any thoughts?
17) Low speed jetting too small.
- - - I don't know how that applies to me. I would think it would be the idle air screw.. but I don't know. Plus it should be the same for both sides.. (both are at 2 turns out, It seems to respond good there; Ill tweak it to perfection later)
18) Main jet is lean.
- - - Could be, but they should be the same on both sides, so the problem should be the same on both sides.

EDIT:
19) Camshaft wrong, broken, etc.
- - - no, unless my intake cam has half of it different.
20) Ignition timing problem
- - - It sure seems like a timing problem, but other then the few parts I have checked, I am clueless as to do next.


So.. carb problems, electrical problems.  ~shrug~  I should sell it on ebay "haunted bike", and make a ton of money. If anyone knows the answers or anything about any of these that I didn't, please share.

It only does it when you first crack the the throttle a little bit right?

Did you rejet?
If you did how many turns out is the idle mixture adjustment, and did you shim the needle?

first off, I would like to thank everyone from this thread.
second, I would like to thank everyone's threads I read.
third... my brother and his friend.


~IT IS FIXED~

as coll0412 said, "Check the vacuum caps on the top of the carbs"

I didn't mean to, but was instead spraying wd40 without a tank; so I could get in there better. Well I heard the sound much louder this time, and was trying to point out to my brother and his friend that happend to come around and bug me. Then it hit me. Literary! A blast of air hit my hand from the left carb's vaccum cap. THERE WAS A HUGE FREAKING HOLE IN IT >

I have no idea where the hole came from, but it looked like it was drilled/punched out. A perfect round hole right on top. I do not know how I passed it by before, but becuase of it's cleaness, and such, must have figured it was suppose to be like that.

So, hurray! Only 33 days after I bought it, I can finally ride around. Even it it rains like hell tomarrow, I will be out there bright and early at the statepark. I should celebrate, but I cant think of something good to do, I guess I'll just stick everything back togather and clean up my big mess.

EDIT:
ah, and for coll0412
"It only does it when you first crack the the throttle a little bit right? "
No it did it all the time, crank the throttle, no throttle, inbetween, constant, all over.

"Did you rejet?"
The bike was rejetted, to what I don't know. I just know that the pervious guy did a stage 3 to it. (or he might not have, I didn't ask, and havent checked the forums here too closely to see if he says he gave it up or something)

"If you did how many turns out is the idle mixture adjustment, and did you shim the needle?"
The mix screw is currently set at 2 turns out, I will probablly move it a bit more later, but not to much, maybe a half turn or two, maybe less. I have not taken the screw out, so I don't know if it is shimed. If you would like to know, I will look, just ask.

EDIT2:
If anyone else current/future wants to ask something, go for it, I feel like I learned a ton about this bike haveing to go through just about every part.

Yarrr....another salty pirate mistory solved.

And i would have gotten away with it if it wernt for those mettling kids and that dog.....

Quote from: NightRyderas coll0412 said, "Check the vacuum caps on the top of the carbs"

You wanna come check mine now?  Looks like I have the same issue.

Check yours? It takes 12.76 seconds for me to check mine. Well maybe a bit longer. Plus my tank was unbolted, and no seat and..  yea, whatever.

How about you come up here, and I'll look at it.

Oh man...  Wait 'til I get my cold gear set up...

How far are you?  

heh, about 30-40 mins north (give or take an hour; if theres crazy traffic)

Btw, what makes you think I can check yours any better then you can?

Quote from: NightRyderBtw, what makes you think I can check yours any better then you can?

Link

Ah, I see. Well you solved it the same way I would have. Vice-grips.

Yeah... Vice'um-Grips RULE!!!

But, that's just part of my curse.  I can work on Bugs like no tomorrow, but anything else I touch breaks.  I guess I'm an anti-wrencher.  

Work on bugs? VW's? Thoes aren't like in the movies, where you just smack it with a big wrench and it works?

Quote from: NightRyderWork on bugs? VW's? Thoes aren't like in the movies, where you just smack it with a big wrench and it works?

Most of the time...  But, sometimes you have to turn stuff...  Mostly you hit it a few times, then tighten all the bolts that are lose and you're good.



But, I also had the sweet stoner-hippy repair guide.  That thing RULED!!  It was written for normal people.  It would tell you to warm up your engine "for a while...  About as long as it takes to smoke a cigarette."  or...  "The engine should be cold, not just 'sat for an hour' cold, but 'sat outside all night' cold."    And it was have warnings like, "Watch out here, you'll bust your knuckles!"   :mrgreen:  Or... "This is hard to do...  Go buy some beer for your friends to get them to help you."   :lol:

:lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  

Wow I want a cool manual like that.
Usually they just say, "Do A, now B, and while you do C do F after you do D."

It had cool stoner-hippy artwork too...   :lol:

Every section had something funny in it.

Did you loose it? Why all the "did"s?