I ordered Progressive spings for the front of my 2001 model.  They should be in tomorrow, hopefully.  I read that one guy replaced the spacers with 31mm nylon material.  The closest I could find suitable was schedule 40 1" diameter PVC pipe cut to 1" long.  My question is this: Do I need to adjust (more or less) the fork oil level with this setup?  If so, how much?

Actually the instructions with the springs include the maximum oil level. They say go with stock or the listed maximum level. Whichever is lower.

If I could find my manual I'd let you know what the stock level is.

Also keep in mind if you just swap the spring (like I did) it's larger volume will take up more space and your oil level will rise.

Hope that helps.

I replaced my springs without takingthe front end off and without replacing or removingthe oil. You'll be fine.

If you want to be a little more precise you'll have to measure the oil level before you remove the stock spring and check again after you install the progressives.

The lazy install:
http://pantablo500.tripod.com/pablosgs500page/id2.html

I see now how Pablo got >1000 posts- repeats don't count you know.  The instructions taht come with the springs do indeed tell you how to get the oil level just right and it involves measuring the oil level from the top of the fork with the fork fully compressed.  They also recommend slightly heavier oil (15wt c.f. the stock 10wt)  I also have a 2001 and can thoroughly recommend this mod.  The recommended spacer length is 3/4" but I have found I needed 1 1/2" (too many pizzas   ).  Once you have the oil changed and the springs in, changing the spacers as you feel the need is a snap- takes about 10-15 minutes.  

Follow the instructions that come with the progressive springs. I have prog. springs too and they didn`t need any spacers. The prog. springs are much longer than the original springs. Also the oil level has to be different because you have different springs and no spacers. Follow the instructions and if you don`t get it, check:
http://www.bikepower.net
and then go to: modification manuals => suspension related => prog. front fork springs.
If you want to work precise, you`ll have to remove the front forks. If you don`t really care about the oil, do it the "pablo`s lazzy way". Good luck!

I just got progessive spings.  I took the forks off the bike and wanted to dissasemble and inspect everything.  The manual calls to remove the Allen bolt at the bottom of the fork.  After breaking it loose, it just turned and turned.  So, I decieded to just screw it back in.  But, to my confusion, it just keeps turning.  

Anyone know what up with that???

Thanks,
Paul

Paul,  thats the damper rod.  You will most likely have to install the spring, no oil, put the cap back on so you have pressure on the damper and tighten it up.

Yep, you need an air compresser to spin that bolt off fast enough or you need that super long T shaped wrench to put down the leg to keep it from spinning. Srinrath talked about making something similar but I have never seen it and wouldn't know how.

Ah Ha!

JohnLA, Your saying there is a allen head in the inside bottom of the fork tube to hold what ever the bolt is threading into?  A 24" or maybe a little longer allen tool would work.  The bolt is a 8mm, what size on the inside?

Don,  The spring will press down on the peice and hold it while I tighten it?

Hmm, I'll try it now.

Thanks,
Paul

The pressure from the spring should hold it so you can either tighten or take it off.  You probably will need the spacer too if you use the stock spring.  The progressive should do it by itself.

Well, the progressive spring and the 3/4" spacer didn't hold it.  The whole spring inside the tube just turned.  It may be that I never really loosened the bolt.  I just have been turning the piece inside the whole time.  The book calls out a torque spec for this.  I figure as long as it don't leak, it's OK.  Hope I'm right. Guess I'll find out.


I would still like to know what size to use on the inside.

Thanks,
Paul

My son and I ran into the same problem trying to replace bent tubes w/ some good used ones. Even with the spring pressure, 3 out of the 4 damper rod assemblies were spinning. If you look down the tube you can see that  the top of the damper rod resembles a big, 12 point socket. A 25 mm or 15/16" Allen wrench would work great but try finding one of those. We had the head of a 5/8" bolt, (which happens to be a 15/16" hex), welded to the end of an old, 24" socket extension for 1/2" drive sockets. Worked like a charm. The real beauty is that the same tool will work on many other models of Suzukis as well as some Kawasakis. OOOH. Can I say Kawasaki here?

AWWWWW!!!!  You said the 'K" word!! Im tellin'!

John!...........

Thanks all!

Thanks, and welcome to the site Delta88.  

If I am only changing the oil and spings, I don't need to mess with this bolt.  But, since I started - It doesn't feel like I loosened it.  It only spins with a great deal of resistance.  

Do you think I can get away with just reasembling?

Thanks,
Paul

Thanks for the welcome.
IMHO, I'm not sure I'd leave the damper rod bolt even a little bit loose. I could be wrong here but if there's any chance that there is "play" between the bolt head and its seat on the under side of the slider, (which would obviously mean play between the damper rod and the inner part of the slider), the soft, aluminum fork slider could get hammered pretty quickly given the stress that's present during normal fork movement. Then there's the possibility of fork oil leaking out around the bolt head.

Does the upper shock tube needs to be removed from the lower tube?  Otherwise, it doesn't seem that anything that size could fit down to the bottom of the fork.

I've tried to remove the upper from the lower by using the "slide hammer" method outlined in the manual.  I've removed the dust ring and the retaining clip but nothing moves.

Is there a trick to this???  

Thanks,
Paul

Delta88 - OK, I took a real good look down the fork tube and I can see what you mean.  I'll add this one to the list of tools I need to make.

I installed the Progressive springs and 15wt oil.  I used the reccomended level of 5 1/2" from the top w/fork compressed and 3/4"spacer.

My question is:  If I still have too much sag with and w/out rider, how long of a spacer is the limit?

And, if I add more oil (reducing air gap) will this reduce the "dive" factor?

Thanks,
Paul