hi everybody! i was just wondering how important is it to change fork seals?  one of mine has been leaking for quite a while but not really so much anymore.  i just got progresive springs and just wanted to put them in the lazy way as defined by pablo instead of taking apart the forks and changing fork seals as i hear they are a major pain to change.  what do u all think?

~facio

It's probably stopped leaking because the oil level has got so low it no longer gets to the seal.

Replace them, it's not hard.

the actual changing part of the seals takes all of 3minutes....It's all the dissassembly and re-assembly that takes awhile. Pull up your manual a 2hours of work and it's a very straight foward process.

Usually by the time the seals wear out the fork oil is toast and the shock tube is all scratched up and pitted. Check your shock tubes first. If their marked up then new seals are not going to fix the leaking shock oil.

Replacing them is rather important.  If you don't the fork oil will leak out and you'll lose the damping abillity in that fork.  Bad juju...

Quote from: Jace009gsUsually by the time the seals wear out the fork oil is toast and the shock tube is all scratched up and pitted. Check your shock tubes first. If their marked up then new seals are not going to fix the leaking shock oil.

ditto^

ok i have the haynes manual but what i don't have is a vice to put my forks in? what kind of vice are they talking about? would vice (locking) grips work or do i need to get that big metal U-shaped thing and some wood to brace against the forks to keep from scratching?  thanks again!

~facio

If you REALLY want to add the Progressive spring using the lazy method, take the forks off the bike and take them to your Suzuki dealer - then have them change the fork seals and add the new oil when they put the springs in.

That's really the lazy method  

By the way, the Progressive springs are spectacular - just added them along with new double H brake pads, rebuilt brake calipers, a new tire and a braided brake line. (Can you say "Stoppie"?)

Quote from: facio57ok i have the haynes manual but what i don't have is a vice to put my forks in? what kind of vice are they talking about? would vice (locking) grips work or do i need to get that big metal U-shaped thing and some wood to brace against the forks to keep from scratching?  thanks again!

~facio

With the 5 bikes I've owned and had to replace all of the fork seals on every darn one....I don't have a vice...what you will need to do is go to the Hardware store and get 2 really really long bolts 15/16" heads and preferably a foot long and a connector and some JB weld...Kerry made a post with this "special" tool" that I used insead of the vice.  Look it up in a search it's complete with pictures and everything.

In addition to the above you will also need the correct allen key and a 15/16" box end wrench [it's a big Mo-fo wrench :lol:] but you stick that "special tool" down the fork tube, flip the fork over [btm up] and then put the allen key on it with a 10mm socket and a 9" extension on it and presto the forks un-bolt them selves

NOTE the allen key bolt is tightened down to 50ft/lbs [or in that proximity] and coated in thread locking sealer. I mean COATED...so Yes it will take a little elbow grease as 50ft/lbs is quite tight, that's why in additon to the allen key wrench you'll want to rig up and extension on it the longer that extension is the less sweat you'll work up[10mm socket=prefect fit for the allen key] Realize the way to break things lose is to give it VERY QUICK JABS....a long constant pressure will cause bolts to snap exposing fracture points. but basicly with the 15/16" wrench on the floor and holding it still/standing on top of it has done the trick for me every single time.

Other notes and tid bits:
On re-assembly use the fork oil and soak everything that has to slide back down the fork tube. Lube the fork tube up too...Lather it up all over. I have found that a piece of PVC pipe [picked it up at Lowe's] I think 1.5" pipe is great at making an Oil seal press device. But You can also get the seal in by hand if you have to but the PVC press device makes it so much quicker...What your trying to accomplish is find a piece of pipe that has the inner diameter the same as the fork tube but outter diameter has to be thin enough for it to slip inside the bottom of the fork.  OOOOO and also the little c-clips....REPLACE THEM TOO ALONG WITH THE FORK DUST BOOTS. The little clips get bent and I've had to replace fork seals because stupid me put the same clips back in [you'll probably bend it up getting it out] and it poked a hold in my new fork seal :x  :x  so just replace it their like $1.99 or something a piece...NO HEADACHES later

feel free to ask any more question or PM if you need more descriptive/assembly instructions on the "special tools"

Jace

edit:
FYI putting the forks in the vice is pointless because they are free spinning between the inner rebound spring [15/16" headed thing down in the fork tube] and the bottom allen key bolt....people just use the vice to grip down on the 15/16" wrench...If you put one foot on the right of the wrench and the other foot on top on a ""mushy"" surface [outside in the grass hint hint or carpet it dosn't slide as long as you give if a few jabs.

Quote from: facio57hi everybody! i was just wondering how important is it to change fork seals?  one of mine has been leaking for quite a while but not really so much anymore.  i just got progresive springs and just wanted to put them in the lazy way as defined by pablo instead of taking apart the forks and changing fork seals as i hear they are a major pain to change.  what do u all think?

~facio

I would say if they were NOT important Suzuki would of not bothered to waste the time and money to install them in the first place.

Now the real question to ask yourself is why are they leaking?  Is the seal just old and worn out or is the fork tube damaged in some way that causes it to leak?  

Installing your new springs the half-ass way will not give you the total results of your planned project.

Do it right the first time or do not bother to do it since it is a waste of time any money.

Just to add 2cents - Fork oil should be replaced every 2 years; it may extend the life of the seals (just guessin').

Quote from: Jace009gsthe actual changing part of the seals takes all of 3minutes....It's all the dissassembly and re-assembly that takes awhile. Pull up your manual a 2hours of work and it's a very straight foward process.

Usually by the time the seals wear out the fork oil is toast and the shock tube is all scratched up and pitted. Check your shock tubes first. If their marked up then new seals are not going to fix the leaking shock oil.

One of mine went prior to 10, 000 kms.  The tubes were not bent or pitted.  I've had no leaks since then either.  

Getting the bike up high enough to get the forks out will likely be your biggest headache.

13 and half inch long 2x4 under one of the case-half bolts, between the headers, above the oil filter cover. Lean it against the bolt (such that it looks like it's leaning the other direction, but it wants to go verticle), push on the grab bar, and the board will rock itself under the bolt, suspending your front wheel in the air. Pictures pending.

thanks for all the advice guys, i have a friend who has done them before and we are going to tackle this project next tuesday, i will let u all know how it goes and what worked and what didn't.  thanks again!

~facio

ok front forks when I did them.....
remmbewr I ia drinkeled right now so you may need to sanitise these steps.

1) Bike on centre stand but with a bit of 2x4 underneath.
2) Prop up front end of bike
3) Remove front wheel, mud guard and axle.
4) Use an alan key and a tube to break the alan bolts on the base of the legs free.
5) Place oil bowl under legs.
6) Remove alan bolts and drain oil.
7) Loosen fork caps and remove the oil seal retaining circlips.
8 ) Loosen fork leg cap bolts in the steering head.
9) Remove fork legs.
10)  Remove fork caps, springs and all that gubbins.
11) Use the fork leg as a slide hammer to remove the oil seals.
12) Replace fork tubes and fit the alan bolts.
13) Grease up the tubes and oil seals and place plastic bags over the tops of the fork tubes.
14) Slide the oil seals into position.
15) Use a 1 1/2 inch PVC tube to hammer the oil seal into place.
16) Replace the circlips and dust caps.
17) Replace the springs etc and fork caps |(but dont bother tightening them).
18 ) Replace forks in the fork clamps.
19) Tighten the fork caps
20) Tighten the alan bolts
21) Replace the mud guard. front wheel and axel.
22) done !!!!

Basically you are using the tension in the fork springs to hold things in placve while you loosen the alan bolts and the tripple clamp as a bench clamp to hold things in place.

remmbewr I ia drinkeled right now so you may need to sanitise these steps.

Edit: I can't vouch for these instructions, but Phil is *usually* a sane, sensible and useful human being. Tonight, however, there has been drink taken. Take all spelling and punctuation at your own risk. -tina, phil's girlfriend (and memory)

Here in the Uk a leaky seal will mean a MOT failure. A MOT test is a safety and roadworthiness test carried out anually and is a legal requirement for vehicles (including bikes) over 3 yrs old. If your seals leak you wont get a pass, also if you ride the bike knowing the seals are leaking you are techinicaly commiting an offence...... so to answer the first question, I would say that the forks seals are a vital safety related part and must be replaced as soon as they fail. Another comment, dont get fobbed off when buying replacement seals. Get proper fork seals that are designed to accomodate the in and out motion of the fork tube and dont get ordinary lip seals that are intended to seal a rotating shaft. They are 2 totaly different items and not compatible.