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what is behind oil filter stud?

Started by ajhooven, February 13, 2006, 04:28:19 AM

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ajhooven

I decide to change the oil on my 96 GS500 as it was WELL overdue. As I undid one of the bolts holding the oil filter cover it snapped (no problem, I thought, this has happened before and back then, i was able to grab the remaining thread and unscrew it then replace it). This time, there was no way it was going to come out without a fight. To cut a long story short, after snapping an EZ out and about 3 drill bits, I manage to drill out the remaining stud and retap it. The oil filter cap can now seems to fit and tighten ok (I havent replaced the oil yet though). The thing is, when i drilled out the old stud/bolt, I was drilling away happily, checking to see i had enough depth to tap (about 20mm), when the drill ran right through! Right through into what? I thought. So this is my question.. does anybody know what is behind the oil filter studs? And what are the consequences of having this hole? The stud (which is now a hole) is the right hand side upper when looking at it front on. I have put some plumbers tape around the thread of the replacement bolt in case it would leak oil... i know plumbers tape works with water.. but does it work with hi temperature oil..?

NightRyder

Woah! I dont know about much, but I would guess that pipe tape will not hold up under exaust temps.

Someone might have a nifty diagram for your endeavor, I think it would be neat to find out.

Have you turned it on? It might have gone into a bad place. Very bad. Bits of metal and random holes are never a good thing.
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ajhooven

No, not yet. Have to refill with oil... I am thinking of taking the oil pan off to check for bits of metal first... I dont think i hit anything when it punched through. I was only applying light pressure because of the aluminium..

rangerbrown

lookign at it, it seems that there is northing right behind it but the crank and the oil pan sump. as long as the new stud keeps in place and stays then you should be fine. but here is the kicker. you need to remove the oil pan and get all (ALL) of the shavings from the drill out of it. if you dont then that is going to be a real problem real fast for the engine. i dont care how much is in there. it has to be done the smallest amount will cause a problem.
nee down mother F***ers

ajhooven

Yea i thought as much.. another bunch of bolts to get undone... another gasket... I knew it was inevitable.. justing hoping i could get away without it! I know it doesnt sound like much, but what started out as a 1 hour job has turned into a nightmare. Yea i will just remove the exhaust so i can drill straight.... its only 5 bolts... 3 hours later......!
Anyway thanks for the reply... it is what i was hoping to hear "as long as the new stud keeps in place and stays then you should be fine"  I will remove the pan first thing tomorrow...

Cal Amari

Where are you located? If you're within driving distance within the same hemisphere, I'll be glad to give you a hand...
This space for rent...

rangerbrown

hell same here.  glad to help any one out.
nee down mother F***ers

dgyver

If it was me, I would use JB Weld and fill in the back part of the stud hole as well as put some on the inside of the oil sump covering the hole. I would not trust the bolt to retain the oil, especially after the hole was retapped and possibly enlarged.
Common sense in not very common.

ajhooven

Hey thanks, i really appreciate the offers of help... It's nice to know there are people around like that..but i am located on the east coast of Australia.. and am at least 1 hour drive away from the closest parts dealer.. who then has to order in the parts..! Anyway i am feeling a bit more relaxed today. I got the oil pan off no hassles and cleaned all the gunk off it.. no noticeable shavings. Looking up into the sump, it is hard to see where the drill would have punched through. Feeling with my finger where i think the back of the stud would be, i can't feel any hole.. BUT there was some shavings. Would it be safe to spray some degreaser up there to flush it out a bit? I also noticed the bottom stud hole on the oil filter cover goes right through... but it is on the other side of the oil pan so wouldnt be subject to the oil.
When i drilled out the old stud/bolt, I retapped the hole with a 1/4 whitworth tap. It didnt end up in exactly the same position (about 1/16") and i had to file out the holes on the filter cover to make it fit (the gasket on the cover is still intact) so it shouldnt leak. The new 1/4" bolt is VERY snug.. so much so that i am scared i will snap it off as well if i apply to much pressure! I will have to see if I can get the JB weld here. How much working time do you get with it? I was thinking maybe i can poke some down the hole, screw the bolt in, to push it right down, then take it out to let it dry.....maybe?
Thanks again for everones help.

galahs

Mate, I wouldn't be putting degreaser into my engine (unless I had the parts fully stripped) as if it remains in there it will strip away at your oil when you refill it.

I'd be flushing it with oil. Maybe even squirt some oil down the bolt hole.

I'd also be inclined to fill the bike with a cheaper oil, doing a 100km run, dropping the oil and changing the filter to ensure you get any of that metal out.

rangerbrown

yes that would be a safe thing to do listed above. i would use wd-40 to help get the shavings out.

hell i am in south carolina, north america not much chance of me geting there any time soon, well unless some one pay thre ticket price but my bike has to come too of course ha ha.

when reinstalling the nuts onto the bolts dont put a lot of pressure on them. when they get snug turn about a 1/8 inch to tighten them but swap the patten to make the pressure even on all three. if it leaks then go a little more but not a lot, theres no need to crank down on them. when you in stall the studs use red locktite to make sure they stay. i wonder if i missed any thing......
nee down mother F***ers

ajhooven

I can see your point with using degreaser.. just thought it dried pretty quickly and would have minimal effect. From what i can tell, it is the remnants of oil which are holding the shavings up against the sides. Managed to remove a lot of them by wiping with my finger.. I will try wd-40. Still cant see where the drill punched through.. even by shining a torch through the hole... can see a bit of light from the torch but thats it.

So what damage would the shavings do? Wouldn't the damage be already done by doing a 100k run? The shavings are not large.. more like tiny filings.

Also, do you think red loctite would hold back the oil... I dont know if i can get hold of any of the JB weld.

Sorry ranger, but i dont have any spare cash for a ticket at the moment.. hell I'm even having trouble paying for the parts! ha

galahs

Maybe you could fill the engine to the filler hole with diesel, then drain it flushing out all within.

Then refill with oil drive round the block then you must change the oil  as the diesel remains will cause the oil to break down.

rangerbrown

the shavings will or could, (the smaller the worse) get in to the pump then get pumped through the engine and into the the small clearances that need oil, two things can happen ang there not good.

the shaving can block the oil and one goes to were ever it is.
or the shavings can get in to bearing and then the wear starts and happens fast meaning the end to cams or crank or both.
in any case complete failer of the engine so you need to take the tiem to get every single piece.



the locktie will hold the boilt in as long as the bolt is in there will be no oil leak, its just not going to happen.  but the bolt and the hole it goes in to has to be free of oil when you use the locktite any oil in the hole at first will make it not work as good, the degresser should be fine for this.
nee down mother F***ers

ajhooven

I managed to get all? of the shavings out using my fingers reaching up into the crankcase.. I was advised that using any sort of spray cleaner/oil may push the shavings into unwanted places and that the filter and strainer should catch any that are left over. I know i should replace the oil and filter pretty much straight away.. and i will when i get some more funds.. (i should have kept the old filter..and used that but it is long gone)

The plumbers/teflon tape has done the trick and there are no oil leaks ( i have just taken the bike for an 90km run riding it fairly hard and everything seems ok)

Thanks again to everyone for their help. I have regained some confidence and may even attempt to check the valve clearances....   one day!


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