I'm finally getting my bike back from the dealer tomorrow with a new rebuilt motor.  I have to break it in all over again, which means staying under 5000rpm.  Do I still have to keep changing gears often or does this break-in procedure not apply in my case?

Any additional tips would be appreciated.  I can't find my manual... how does it go again?

max 5000rpm until 1000km
max 8000rpm until ?      km

Should I take it in for a 1000km service or specifically just for a Valve adjustment (if at all)?.  Should I wait 1000km to change my oil or would it be better if I did it at 500km?

Barna

Im curious as to how important this is myself... I just rebuilt the ENTIRE motor.. and since my tach was off, i was revving to 8k thinking it was only 5k.... so i said screw it and im riding it like normal now.. there is 300+ miles on the new motor. Sorry to hijack the post, i just wanna get in here on this info.

I believe it is 5000rpm til 500 miles... and then 8000 rpms til 1000 miles.

Not sure about the GS but I know an automotive engines the important thing is to vary the RPM and that the top isn't as important.

The exception to this (the first part of the break in most likely) is the cam. If you're re-using a cam you only have to worry about the rings seating. If the cam is new then you'll want to do the whole "as new" break-in procedure and keep the RPMs down.

Hope that helps.

the breaking in, for most engines, is basicly gently setting a wear pattern for lack of better terms,  the rings scuff most the high ridges left from honeing the bore, as well as a matching the scuff on the rings themselves. regaurdless to what most folks think, its not the bearings on the cranks, rods, or even the cam's, but the CONTACT areas being RINGS and lifters (for non roller types) or the lifter followers, while this is happening, the idea is to get a smooth finnish, its like wetsanding paint. you dont want to OVER heat parts too quickly (little extra heat is generated while rings are cutting and lifters are rubbing)  i think the rings take on a certain tempering too. the lifters  and cam lobes get a super smooth polished area where they rub, this area is smoother then the surfaces when new.   i read in one of my repair manuals to break in the engine  (2.8 v6 GM)  was to warm up the engine, go onto a road and full throttle from 10 mph to 40 mph then let it coast back down and repeat afew times. check for leaks. and do it again.  continue this for about 100miles then change the oil and filter.  from this point on your spose to drive it normaly but not harshly for 500 miles, oil change and your done

know what? untill i see 3 mechanics  that all agree 100% with eachother on how this is done. i will do it my way. i will run it up in the RPMs but not in a flogging mannor. i change the oil filter 3x inside 1000 miles but the oil only once maybe twice (depends on how much cutting is going on) once the 1000 miles is up i pull the covers and double check valve lash and bolt tightness(all engines not just bikes) from that point i will start floggin it as i would normaly and chainging the oil/filter on schedule. never had a problem with breaking in ANY engine this way.  some engines i have to go by HOURS of running, i judge on what the workload is and decide from there. be it a 350 cummins,5.0 ford. 25h evenrude,or a tacumsa.im not saying my way is correct, just  never had one give me issues with this break in methode

I believe you just need to worry about wearing in the Pistons.  

1) dont let the idle drop below 1500 (bad) because not alot of oil will be splashing around the inside of the cylinder (underneath)
2) dont just let it sit, ride it hard in 1st and 2nd gear to seat the rings,  AND you dont want a mirror finish on the cylinders thats called glazing the cylinders and is bad,  it is caused by just sitting at say 5krpm for a long time without changing.  you actually want little nooks and crannys all over the place to hold the oil so the rings can slide over them.

So basically just ride it normal but dont sit at 1 rpm for a long time (Until after like 50 miles) and yes the Idea of going full on from 10-40 is a good idea.  Just go out to a country road, get going then wack it open get up to 10grand and then just close the throttle(stay in gear) and your rings should be seated.  

PS the 500 mile thing from the factor is for a brand new motor with everything new in the case and of course those nice metal shavings.  

Thanks for the advice you guys.  It will be VERY difficult for me to take it to 10k rpm so early on but at the same time, it might be a good idea so a problem will show up sooner within my warranty period.

The don't go below 1500rpm I never thought about... thanks!

Up to 10k and roll off the throttle....  

Barna

If you want a techinical explanation.  

When you are just idling there is just enough energy to push the engine over 2 times.(if there was more then it would rev up)  so the rings dont really get alot of pressure put on them, along without having a load to build pressure in the cylinder.  So by just letting it idle you are sliding the rings on the cylinders which will slowly polish the inside of the cylinder thus glazing it.(bad)  but if you ride it hard you will build up pressure in the cylinder which will put pressure on the rings which will wear into the cylinder wall (good)  now by running it up to (ok lets say 8k) you build alot of pressure/heat etc from the top of the ring (higher pressure in the cylinder) now when you roll off the throttle this creates a big vaccume (thats why you slow down) inside the cylinders thus creating a pulling force on the rings to help them wear from the other side.  and The most breaking in will be in the first 20-30miles.  

As said before the 500-1000 mile manufacture "warning" is just A. to cover their ass and B. try to get the warranty to expire before you start running the engine hard.  

I just bought a new one after a 39year layoff from bikes, The mechanic at the dealer advised plenty of variation, don't sit around at the same revs and, yes, keep under 5k for the first 500m and 8k up to a thousand. I'm just getting into the 8k stage now and compared with previous the world is changing shape. Bloody brilliant!

Wow, lots of good info here!

I had no idea about that idle thing! Ill keep that in mind.. since i have let it idle lower than 1500 a few times.

SO i guess my motor has been broken in pretty well then.. whew!