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Sticky Throttle

Started by Dwn4whadever, March 04, 2006, 09:35:32 AM

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Dwn4whadever

Yesterday it was fine you roll the throttle and when you let got it drops back down. Today after i started it i rode it a little bit slow and as i started to increase my speeds on runs i notice that when i held in the clutch the rpms dropped real slow from 3k. I would kinda rev it a little and it would stick around three and then drop real slow. This was startingto effect me when i was going into second gear. I dont know What do you guys think?
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Codger

Mine did this new from the dealer, along with a handful of other idle related issues.  Mine was under warranty.  Once they synced the carbs and straightened out the mixture, everything behaves correctly.  If I rejet,  I can probably get a little more meat in the off idle range.  If it happened quickly, maybe you picked up some junk in the gas and plugged the idle jet.

Search anxious idle and lean mixture, you should find a dozen or so threads on the same subject.
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Acerbis dual sport lights, Progressive springs, Racetech Emulators, Kat600 shock, SW Motech rack, FIAMM 130dB horn, rejetted, Uni Socks, Fly 1010 Yam bars, Acewell 2803.

SeriousGeorge

I've only had mine for a week, but it does the same thing when cold. Once it warms up it's fine. As far as I know it's just the lean factory jetting. From my understanding, if you open the throttle and there is some hesitation before it revs then it's too rich. If it hangs before the revs drop down then it's too lean. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong on this.
1991 GS500e

scratch

You are correct, if it hangs, it's too lean.  Did it happen suddenly?  If so, maybe the vacuum line came loose, one of the carb boots, or airboots, came loose; one of the vacuum caps came off the top of the carbs, or maybe the clog Codger mentioned.  Also, what does it idle at after a long ride now?  Maybe adjust your idle screw to 1200rpm, after the long ride, and see how it acts after that.
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Dwn4whadever

After reviewing of alot of old post i still have a ? My sticking problem is not as bad as before but now it just kinda drops down when i rev it up. My ? is i rode with some of my friends this weekend and all have like FI bikes. When i rev my bike is it suppose to slowly come down like that or should it drop like the I4. I was going turn the airmixture screw before church this morn but i could not find a L screwdriver. I just wanted to know before i go messing with it.

May be i can insert some video on here for you guys to take a listen.  :thumb:
A common mistake that people make when trying to design something completely foolproof, is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools....

Thanks to advances in automation, Nike shoes will be made by robots. Unfortunately, the robots will be made by children in Malaysia.

insulinboy

The inline four is going to wind down a little quicker than your GS but it shouldt be too much quicker.. the I4 motor has more rotating mass than the twin cylinder gs does.. also with the fuel injection the fuel mixture is at a more constant optimum and throtle response is much quicker.. Id say your more than likely running lean.. with the sudden onset Id expect it to be an air leak somewhere.. either a carb boot isnt tight, a vacume line is off, could be a rubber piece with a pinhole in it.. could be as simple as you put an aftermarket air filter in that breaths better than the stock one
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1982 Yamaha XS-650 In Black
Buy Gear before you bling your bike
tighten it till it strips.. then back off 1/4 of a turn

Dwn4whadever

So i did a little bit of wrenching today after my ride. I was trying to figure out why im still holding around 3k. I took off the gas tank and check for loose vacuum lines and cracks in any off the plastic. I couldn't find anything. I put the tank back on and started her up and let her run for a bit then i sparyed WD40  into the airfilter. I was told that this would cause a change in my idle if i had a leak. Nothing happen idle stayed the same....absolutly no change. So i adjusted the airmixture screw out the best i could to where its not hanging AS MUCH when i rev it.

So now i guess i just going to have to jet it so its not running so lean. 8)
A common mistake that people make when trying to design something completely foolproof, is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools....

Thanks to advances in automation, Nike shoes will be made by robots. Unfortunately, the robots will be made by children in Malaysia.

mjm

Quote from: dwn4whadever on March 23, 2006, 12:53:40 PM
So i did a little bit of wrenching ....sparyed WD40  into the airfilter...... absolutly no change. So i adjusted the airmixture screw out the best i could to where its not hanging AS MUCH when i rev it.

You are suposed to spray the WD-40 around the air cleaner boots while it is idling - not into the aircleaner. 

You say you adjusted the air mixture screw - do you mean a single screw on each carb?  If not, you probably mean the idle speed adjusment screw (big knob) mounted between the carbs.  If that is the screw you adjusted, the proper proceedure is to go out and fully warm the bike - ride for fifteen minutes or so - and then adjust the idle to about 1200 ~ 1300 rpm with that screw.  If the idle is adjusted with the bike less than fully warmed, then the idle will indeed hang at around 3000 once the bike is warm.

weaselnoze

what about the clutch cable?   if its not disengaging properly that would cause problems.  check and adjust your clutch cable to spec.

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Dwn4whadever

Quote from: mjm on March 23, 2006, 01:26:19 PM
Quote from: dwn4whadever on March 23, 2006, 12:53:40 PM
So i did a little bit of wrenching ....sparyed WD40  into the airfilter...... absolutly no change. So i adjusted the airmixture screw out the best i could to where its not hanging AS MUCH when i rev it.

You are suposed to spray the WD-40 around the air cleaner boots while it is idling - not into the aircleaner. 

You say you adjusted the air mixture screw - do you mean a single screw on each carb?  If not, you probably mean the idle speed adjusment screw (big knob) mounted between the carbs.  If that is the screw you adjusted, the proper proceedure is to go out and fully warm the bike - ride for fifteen minutes or so - and then adjust the idle to about 1200 ~ 1300 rpm with that screw.  If the idle is adjusted with the bike less than fully warmed, then the idle will indeed hang at around 3000 once the bike is warm.

It was not the screw with the little knob on the end i know thats the one to adjust the idle. My idle is str8. Also i rode the bike for 2hours and i figured i would go ahead and work on it then. The book calls it the pilot screw. adusting it did nothing. I think it maybe that because the bike sat for a while either i need my carbs cleans or need to get it JETTED. Well thanks for Ur help.
A common mistake that people make when trying to design something completely foolproof, is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools....

Thanks to advances in automation, Nike shoes will be made by robots. Unfortunately, the robots will be made by children in Malaysia.

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