Ok, this will be a long post with several low-quality pictures.  My digi-cam is older than dirt so please bear with me.  If you have any questions about the following process e-mail me: mike_manders@hotmail.com

-edit-  Be absolutely sure to unscrew and remove the main jet before trying this.  If you don't you will damage the carbs, possibly badly enough to scrap them.

Intro

I just bought my first bike a week ago; a 2000 model GS500.  I got the bike cheap because it doesn't run.  The previous owner hurt himself and gave up motorcycling.  Unfortunately (for me) he let the bike sit, untouched for upwards of two years.  I knew I had a lot of work ahead of me but that's all part of the fun right?  The first order of business was to remove and clean the carbs.  Following the procedure in the Haynes manual everything was going fine until it came time to remove the emulsion tube and plastic slide support. 



The offending pieces can be seen here so everybody knows what I'm talking about.  The fouled gasoline had turned to glue and these parts were stuck tightly to the carb body.  Pressing as hard I could did not even budge them.  After posting here it was suggested that screwing the main jet in a tiny bit and tapping it with a mallet might unseat the emulsion tube.  In my case, this didn't work.  As the carb manufacturer did not see fit to allow any way to get a tool onto the slide support for removal I had to figure something else out.

Here's what I came up with:

These are the parts you will need to build the tool.  I bought everything from Lowe's and it was about $6.00 total.

1.   Threaded rod - I used a #6-32 rod about 6 inches in length
2.   #6-32 hex nuts - you'll need two of these, I bought a pack of 5
3.   #6 washer - only need one, came in a pack of 4
4.   #6-32 wing nut - only need one, came in a pack of 2
5.   #6-32 nylon insert lock nut - only need 1
6.   #6 split lock washer - only need 1
7.   Small wooden semicircular disk, about 1/2" deep with a 1/2" radius. - I'm going to refer to this as the pull block.  I cut mine from a piece of dowel I had lying around.





These are two pics of the pull block so you can get an idea of the size and shape.  This piece is going to fit inside the circular cutout in the plastic slide support.  It needs to be thinner than the slide support so it won't hang on the carb body during removal.  You need to drill a hole through this piece (visible in the second pic) so that the rod can thread through it once it's in place.

Glad to hear you got it out.  Whatever works!  

You will also need something like this:



I found this at Lowe's too, it's a plate for mounting in-wall electrical sockets.  You can hunt down one of these or just use any sturdy piece of metal or wood wide enough to fit across the carb input chamber.  You need to put a hole (or just buy something with a hole already there like I did) in the center for the threaded rod to pass through.


Assembling the tool

1. Take the threaded rod and slide it through the hole in the metal plate. 
2. Thread the two hex nuts onto the rod
3. Slide the lock washer onto the rod
4. Thread the lock nut onto the end of the rod. 

You should end up with an assembly like this:



5. Drop the pull-block into place in the slide support (this is difficult to explain unless you're looking right at it.  You'll see how it fits in       there if you find yourself going through this procedure).  This pic should give you an idea of how it fits:

6. Carefully pass the other end of the threaded rod through the hole you drilled in the pull block. 
7. Thread the flat washer and wingnut onto the rod as it exits the pull block. 

This is a blurry shot of the wingnut, washer and pull block in place in the slide support:

Using the tool

1. Once the tool is assembled, with the pull block firmly secured to the threaded rod and resting against the inner wall of the plastic slide support, lay the metal plate flush against the carb input opening (I used some electrical tape between the two to prevent damage). 
2. Thread the hex nut closest to the plate down snug against the plate.



3. Tighten the other hex nut against the lock nut compressing the lock washer between them. 
4. Grab the lock nut and hex nut together with a pair of pliers and brace them as you use a wrench to tighten the second hex nut against the metal plate.  Holding the lock nut and hex nut will prevent the rod from rotating while the other hex nut applies pressure.



5. Continue tightening the hex nut and the pull block will be drawn towards you slowly, pulling the plastic slider support assembly with it. In this pic you can sort of see the slider support seperating from the carb body. 



Once it has become unstuck you can remove the sluder support and emulsion tube.



6. Once they're clear of the carb body press down on the emulsion tube to unseat it from the slider support and remove it for cleaning.  Don't forget to clean/replace the o-ring on the face of the slider support.





That's all there is to it.  Clean everything out real nice and reassemble.  Removing these parts was a real problem for me until I figured out this method, I hope someone else can use it too.

-M

good work, granted ive had enough odds and ends parts collect in my bench,box,shed from diff cars, trucks and bikes tha i used another emultion tube that was totaly clogged over from another bike as a drift punch and after 3 days of soaking the part with WD-40 i carefully knocked the old tube out  but the puller idea works nice too.

thank you.  At first I was planning to do what you did; use some kind of punch on the the end of the emulsion tube.  I decided against it because I was worried about damaging the threads for the main jet. 

Just added an -edit- to the first post so it's very clear.  You must, must, must unscrew and remove the main jet before using this procedure.  If you try to use the puller with the main jet installed you will damage the slide support or emulsion tube, and these parts are not sold individually!

-M