I went out riding this morning but didn't get too far.  I was rolling up to a stop sign, I downshifted to first, the rpms dropped to almost nothing then jump back up, didn't think much of it bike was idling fine. I went to take off get on the throttle and the bike starts to die, let off it goes back to idle. I try this again this time bike backfires loudly then quits, no power lights out and everything. Thankfully Alpha's white tail hasn't arrived yet so the fuses are all readily accessable. green plug with a red cap on the right side of the bike-under that is a 20amp fuse which blew...had my dad's boss bring me out a new one, replaced and the bike comes alive like nothing was wrong. I rode all the way home with no further incident. what could have caused that fuse to blow? could it just be a freak thing? any advise would be greatly appreciated.thanks in advance

Random blowing fuse -> most probably cable insulation chafed somewhere. A Buddha Loves You to search that.

That it happened when donwshifting to first is some hint in the direction of the neutral sensor / indicator, though.

I went back out on the new fuse, rode for about an hour everything was great. I got home had some lunch then went to run an errand and get 2 blocks away and it happens again . I got some more fuses and pushed the bike back home traced all the wires I could find nothing seemed to be chaffed so I taped up all the bare wires i could find, replaced the fuse went for another short ride around the block and everything is fine. I don't understand what could be causing this as it occurs so randomly. Last thing I could think of is the relays getting hit with too much wind as it only blows fuses since I took off my rear plastic? I'm betting that is highly unlikely.

Quote from: MarkusN on March 31, 2006, 10:01:36 AM
Random blowing fuse -> most probably cable insulation chafed somewhere. A Buddha Loves You to search that.

That it happened when donwshifting to first is some hint in the direction of the neutral sensor / indicator, though.

Like he said.  Look for "rub" points where the wires rub the frame for instance and the insulation wears away.  Electric problems can be a betch for sure.  Sorry I can't be more exact but I would say start pulling plastic or whatever needed and see if some wires have worn out through vibration etc.  IF you find this kind of short it is easily fixed with electrical tape and plastic rap.  This may not be your bikes problem but I have seen it on other bikes.

yea i did that and taped up everything i could find but didn't see any chaffed wires the only other thing i can think of is the voltage regulator 

I just looked at my Cylmer manual and it says you HAVE to use the Suzuki Pocket tester to check the regulator.  If you use a ohm meter it could lead to wrong diagnosis. The stealer may test it or just switch it out to test it.
The only other similar problem I have had and it was on a '78 cb750 was I had a short in the key ignition area.  I replaced it and that fixed it.  I feel for you, I hate electrical problems and being colorblind makes it almost impossible to fix for me.
Keep plugging at it.

Have you done any work on the bike lately?  This is where I usually try to fix one thing and break something else, like knock a wire loose for instance.

i haven't done anything other than remove the rear plastic, i checked all of the wires around there about 3 times now and haven't seen anything. wiring really sucks wish it was something mechanical at least it would be easier for me to figure out, when it comes to electrical problems i'm lost.

I think I finally found where the problem on mine was by starting it and grabbing and shaking various electrical units.
So if you can start it and it is idling try moving various wires or circuits and see if you get a reaction.

Quote from: Absolute Rescue on April 01, 2006, 10:23:10 AM
yea i did that and taped up everything i could find but didn't see any chaffed wires the only other thing i can think of is the voltage regulator 

It is unlikely the solid state electronics of the VR would be intermittent...not impossible...just not likely.

I have to side with the shorting supply wire theory until we get more data.

Do you have any mods? Different turn signals, integrated brake/turns, etc.?

My comments on this matter maybe helpful but its a long shot. When the fuse blows have you just immediately done something like hit the brakes or turn on the indicators? I once had a rear tail light burn-out on a bike (think it was an XL125)  that in effect caused a short circuit as opposed to an open circuit. The filement blew but shorted itself out and over to the brake light filement at the same time same time. It was a real 1000 to 1 event. Every time current flowed through the circuit it took out the fuse as in effect it was causing a direct short to earth. Took me a while to figure it out and that was after spending hours looking for a chaffed cable.

everything electrical on the bike is stock. I took it out yesterday and didn't seem to have any problems no blown fuse on about a 15 mile trip. The only time the fuse would blow is when I was stopping didn't seem to correspond with the signals because the first time it happened they weren't switched on, could be something with the brakes i'll have to look into that when i get home next weekend.