Hi

I was wondering if there is a trick changing the fork seals on a gs500 . I have removed all nuts and bolts and snap rings and still cant seperate the forks to change the seal . What am I missing ??

Thanks
Kath

I've never replaced my fork seals yet so I really have no first hand experiance but

does this article help at all?

Quote
FORK SEALS

Doing fork seals is a breeze, get the parts, and fresh fork oil, some like 15w, I like 20w.  Now - a quick and simple way to fork seals.

* I use airtools to make my life easier, not everyone has them or can get to them but you can still do the job with hand tools.

Get the front wheel off the ground (I set mine up High with jackstands), pull wheel, pull caliper and let hang to side, unbolt fender.

While tubes are still in clamps, use rachet with allen socket or air impact wrench (dialed down) if you got it with allen socket and blip it to break the bolt loose almost to the point of coming out.

Get a bucket or old butter bowl and place it under the fork you're working on (keep it there).  Finish pulling the bolt and let the oil drain.

Now you can either loosen the clamps and drop the tubes out and work at a vice (use wood in the jaws so you dont scratch the tubes) or if you set the bike up HIGH do them on the bike. either way the top tubes must be secured solidly in place.

Gently pry up the dust cover that sits over the seals, there is a spring clip that holds the seal in place under the dust cover.  Once clip is removed, take a 1/2" drive ratchet and pull the top caps.  The idea is to NOW unload the springs.  (Remember that butter bowl?  Is it still in place?  Should be.)

Once caps are removed more oil WILL come out.  (Remember any spacers/washers that come out -- they must go back in.)  Pull springs if you like.

Now being as the tube is still secured in Vice or fork clamps, compress the lower tube and give a quick yank to separate the upper and lower, the seal will come out, you will see the Valve that the little allen bolt was holding, those spin when you try to break loose by hand, you get nowhere.

Clean everything up.  If changing dust boot, do it now.  Slide new lubed seal over tube, make sure bushing (if it came out) is back in place, with washer that sits over that but under the seal.  Slide tubes back together making sure the seal is seated, reinstall that clip and dust boot.  Now, recompress the spring and thread top cap back on tight (only need few threads), put allen bolt back in the bottom and blip it tight (be gentle ok, you're not gun man on a pit crew)

Pop top cap and dump in your measured amount of oil.  Replace top cap and tighten.  At this point you can reinstall the fork on the bike (unless you did it on the bike like me) and do the same for the other fork.  Even if only one is leaking, do both at same time.  You already have the oil, seals come as a pair, it only makes sense.

If you dont like my method, that's cool, just follow the book.  I have had both forks DONE and reinsalled running down the road inside 45 mins.  Either way - if you think you can, do it yourself.  Shops want 60$ per fork leg to do it, not including parts.  Seals run about 14$.

Bravo - GALAHS  bravo!!!! 

Welcome to GStwin!

Just for clarification: the bolts spoken of are located at the bottom of each fork leg.

Also, before you slide the new seal on, place a plastic bag (like a sandwich bag) over the top of the fork tube and smear some fork oil over the bag, this will help protect the seal from the sharp edges of the fork tubes.

Hope this helps.

Again these forums at their best!

By the members for the members!