i just repainted part of my bike with spary paint and it has an orange-peel look to it. I heard the best way to get rid of this was to wet-sand the bike or buff it out. what should I do? 

You should wet sand it and buff it out.  Your hearsay doesn't lie.

Go out and buy 200, 400, 800, 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit sandpaper, and use them in series.  Use each grit of sandpaper until the area looks totally like crap, but you can't see the scratches from the previous grit.  (For the 200, sand until you can't see any shiny bits, or the orange peel texture).  You have to completely dry the area after each grit in order to tell if you're done.  It's a pain in the ass, but it's critical.

If you didn't use clear coat, sand the base coat up to 800 grit, then apply a few coats of clear coat, then start from 200 and work your way up to 2000.

Also buy some rubbing compound (It was called 3M Scratch Remover when I bought it at AutoZone), and follow the directions on the bottle.  This step is *freakin magic*.  If you've done each step right, the rubbing compound will give it a mirror shine.  Wait a couple weeks for the paint to completely harden, and top it off with car wax (like Turtle Wax or your favorite brand).

I just repainted my Airtech fairing with this method, and where I wasn't completely lazy, the results were spectacular.  In the areas where I got tired and didn't sand enough, it looks kinda dull.  I can post pictures if anyone's interested.

Quote from: Chuck on April 18, 2006, 01:33:45 PM
You should wet sand it and buff it out.  Your hearsay doesn't lie.

Go out and buy 200, 400, 800, 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit sandpaper, and use them in series.  Use each grit of sandpaper until the area looks totally like crap, but you can't see the scratches from the previous grit.  (For the 200, sand until you can't see any shiny bits, or the orange peel texture).  You have to completely dry the area after each grit in order to tell if you're done.  It's a pain in the ass, but it's critical.

If you didn't use clear coat, sand the base coat up to 800 grit, then apply a few coats of clear coat, then start from 200 and work your way up to 2000.

Also buy some rubbing compound (It was called 3M Scratch Remover when I bought it at AutoZone), and follow the directions on the bottle.  This step is *freakin magic*.  If you've done each step right, the rubbing compound will give it a mirror shine.  Wait a couple weeks for the paint to completely harden, and top it off with car wax (like Turtle Wax or your favorite brand).

I just repainted my Airtech fairing with this method, and where I wasn't completely lazy, the results were spectacular.  In the areas where I got tired and didn't sand enough, it looks kinda dull.  I can post pictures if anyone's interested.

you used paint from a can? and pictures please.

Chuck when are you going to come hit the Tomhannock with me???

Quote from: budget speed demon on April 18, 2006, 07:29:27 PM
you used paint from a can? and pictures please.

Remember that black GS I posted pics of a couple days ago? That was a spray can paint job, wetsanded 400, 600, 800, 1000, 3M Super Duty rubbing compound, polishing compound, sealer and glaze.

Painting advice

http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_repaint.htm

Quote from: Onlypastrana199 on April 18, 2006, 08:04:54 PM
Chuck when are you going to come hit the Tomhannock with me???

Oh, man... I was thinking of buying a house near Schaghticoke last year (it was on Herrington Rd.), and I *loved* riding those roads around the reservoir.  I'd come and ride any time, as long as it's not this weekend, next weekend, or the one after that!

Quote from: patrick on April 18, 2006, 10:07:30 PM

Quote from: budget speed demon on April 18, 2006, 07:29:27 PM
you used paint from a can? and pictures please.

Remember that black GS I posted pics of a couple days ago? That was a spray can paint job, wetsanded 400, 600, 800, 1000, 3M Super Duty rubbing compound, polishing compound, sealer and glaze.

this one?

Quote from: budget speed demon on April 18, 2006, 07:29:27 PM
you used paint from a can? and pictures please.

Oh, and yes, you can get good results from a paint can, if you do more than just spray it on.  The pictures are on my camera, but my card reader is in my computer at home, so check back tomorrow.

primer

Paint        Dupli color automotive paint in a rattle can.

primer was wet sanded to 800.  paint was stepped - 220 - 400 - 600 - 800 - 2000.  then clearcoated and polished.

less than $30. 

Quote from: 3imo on April 19, 2006, 12:49:28 PM
primer

Paint        Dupli color automotive paint in a rattle can.

primer was wet sanded to 800.  paint was stepped - 220 - 400 - 600 - 800 - 2000.  then clearcoated and polished.

less than $30. 

it looks good on the frame, but its not as glossy as I was expecting it to be. looks exactly like stock, but not nearly as shiny as the body work.

Here she is.  The tank and seat fairing are factory paint.  The blue side panel and black windscreen are spray canned and sanded as per my message.  (200 thru 800 basecoat, 200 thru 2000 clearcoat, then rubbing compound)  As you can see, it reflects just as well as the factory paint job.  The top/front panel was the one where I got lazy and didn't sand enough at each stage, and it shows.  The reflection is dull and blurry.  I was tired and wanted to get done, and I paid for my impatience.  I may re-do it once I get more time on my hands.

Anyhow, I hope we've proven that you *can* get good results on your own if you take it slowly and do every step right.

BTW I could have matched the factory paint at ColorRite for $30/can, but as this was my first attempt, I didn't want to spend too much money.  Instead I used $5/can Duplicolor Ford/GM dark metallic blue base coat (they called it SUV paint for some reason), and $1/can WalMart "Color Place" primer and clear coat.  No complaints.

Oh, and the reason I did this was because I bought the fairing with some "battle damage."  First it was a nasty powder blue.  The previous bike was dropped really hard on one side, and not-so-hard on the other.  It also had a bunch of scratches from me from some aggressive cornering last year.  There's a lot of bondo underneath that shine.

wow. that looks really good! I think I'm going to do a custom paint job out of a can. we'll see how it turns out. thanks for the info everyone

This is a Plasticote Rattle Can Paint Job. Chevy Engine Orange with Universal Black Engine Paint.Just stay away from Duplicolor.After you Spray the Clearcoat over the Base Coat it will Wrinkle.

Quote from: Chuck on April 19, 2006, 04:38:20 PM
Anyhow, I hope we've proven that you *can* get good results on your own if you take it slowly and do every step right.

BTW I could have matched the factory paint at ColorRite for $30/can, but as this was my first attempt, I didn't want to spend too much money.  Instead I used $5/can Duplicolor Ford/GM dark metallic blue base coat (they called it SUV paint for some reason), and $1/can WalMart "Color Place" primer and clear coat.  No complaints.

Hey chuck... That looks awesome. How good is the color match in person? it looks great in the pic.  I wanted to keep that factory color. any chance you still have a can layin around?  the duplicolor suv paint has a # by the upc code. if you can provide me with that # i can pick up a can or two.


Jughead...  cnat beat chevy engine orange    shes a beauty

Quote from: 3imo on April 20, 2006, 06:31:33 AM
Hey chuck... That looks awesome. How good is the color match in person? it looks great in the pic.  I wanted to keep that factory color. any chance you still have a can layin around?  the duplicolor suv paint has a # by the upc code. if you can provide me with that # i can pick up a can or two.

The duplicolor is noticably lighter than the factory color.  (The Suzuki color is called "deep abyss blue metallic" or something, and the duplicolor is mere "dark blue metallic.")  Honestly, it looks like it's supposed to be that way, though.  The two-tone is rather stylish.  Although if I was willing to buy $120 worth of ColorRite paint, I would have done it.  I'm a cheap bastard.

I have the cans in my garage still, so I'll get you the paint code when I get home.

I can't say much to Jughead about Duplicolor sucking.  As I said, that's what I used, and it didn't wrinkle at all.  The paint will wrinkle if you don't use a primer, or if your surface is still wet from wet sanding.  Both of those are nasty situations, and you basically have to sand back down to the bone and start over.  (Ask me how I know!)  The paint will also fail if it's less than 60 degrees, or more than 95 or so.  All those instructions and precautions on the can are there for a reason.  If you pay attention and don't rush things, even crap brand paint will stick.