Hi everybody, this site has been a great resource for my '04 GS500F.  Because of it, I've managed to change my oil, clean/wax the chain, and change the brake fluid.  Next up I'm going to tackle checking my valve clearance, but lastly, I need help with chain tensioning.  I followed the owner's manual, but after loosening the axle nuts, I mistakenly unscrewed the tension bolts on the end of the swingarm 

I've used the alignment marks to the best of my ability, but it looks like a 'rough-estimate' at best, and I'm one of those anal types when it comes to alignment on my bike.  I've searched for the string method, but all the links came up dead. Right now I've got about 3/4" of play on my chain, before it was about 1.75 of slack.

Anyone have a step by step for ensuring my rear wheel is tracking correctly?

Second question:  I'm still getting familiar with motorcycles, but will taking out all the slack in my chain get rid of the chain slap I think I'm experiencing when I roll on and off the throttle?

TIA,
Randy

The marks on the swing arm are very accurate...use them thats what they are for

Quote from: veeref on April 20, 2006, 06:31:32 PM
................................Right now I've got about 3/4" of play on my chain, before it was about 1.75 of slack.
.........................

TIA,
Randy

1.75 is way too much, 3/4 is on the tight side.  One inch +/- a little bit is recommended.

Quote from: cell_491 on April 20, 2006, 06:39:02 PM
The marks on the swing arm are very accurate...use them thats what they are for

This is not completely true.  Yes, the marks are very accurate, but the side plates with the "V" shaped indicator have a huge amount of play in them.  As they rock back and forth, the "V" marks will move as much as 1/16" or more.  Yes, veeref, using the factory set up for alignment is a "rough estimate" at best.  Some have suggested measuring from the rear edge of the swingarm to the centerline of the axle bolt.  This method works very well for me. 

-Turd.

What I do is guess.  Okay, so it's not that bad.  I get them aligned as well as possible using a combination of the marks and the number of threads visible on the tensioner bolts.  Then, I ride a bit.  I look at the rear sprocket.  If one side is wearing more than the other (shiny), then the tensioner on that side is too tight compared to the other side.  I then readjust and check in this manner until the chain is right and the sprocket's wearing evenly.

Once this is straight, I tension the chain by using equal turns on each side, of course.

Quote from: John Bates on April 20, 2006, 06:48:08 PM1.75 is way too much

I don't even wanna tell you what mine is right now.   

As far as alignment...  I dunno, can you measure the distance from the wheel to the swingarm in a few places?  The repair guide say anything about it?

Quote from: veeref on April 20, 2006, 06:31:32 PM
Second question: I'm still getting familiar with motorcycles, but will taking out all the slack in my chain get rid of the chain slap I think I'm experiencing when I roll on and off the throttle?

Unfortunately the answer is no. Most of that slap comes out of the gearbox, not the chain, as the gears have a backlash of 10 to 15° in their dog wheels.

The marks on the swingarm are accurate enough for me, but the plates with the V notches do have too much freeplay to ignore. 

When aligning the wheel after chain or tire replacement, I make the adjustments with the axle bolt snugged down a bit to keeps things in place.

Then I grab a couple of pieces of 2x3" wood about a foot long and place the end of one under the swingarm up against the indicator plate from the rear and give it a couple raps with the other piece of wood.  Repeat on the other side. This will rotate the plate on the left side clockwise as far as it will go and the one on the right side counterclockwise eliminating any inaccuracy due to the freeplay.

It's importantant that the plate on the left side be the one rotated clockwise as the final tightening of the axle bolt nut will tend to turn that plate clockwise. Keeps the marks in alignment after tightenind the axle nut.

Don't worry about those silly little indicators too much.

If your bike is still straight (ie. no accidents) count the threads of the aduster bolts on the end of each swing arm. Make sure they are the same each side, then tighten back up the axle bolt.

Quote from: Turd Ferguson on April 20, 2006, 07:57:27 PM

Quote from: cell_491 on April 20, 2006, 06:39:02 PM
The marks on the swing arm are very accurate...use them thats what they are for

This is not completely true.  Yes, the marks are very accurate, but the side plates with the "V" shaped indicator have a huge amount of play in them.  As they rock back and forth, the "V" marks will move as much as 1/16" or more.  Yes, veeref, using the factory set up for alignment is a "rough estimate" at best.  Some have suggested measuring from the rear edge of the swingarm to the centerline of the axle bolt.  This method works very well for me. 

-Turd.

Cool, I measured from the end of the swingarm to the center of the bolt, but I hope Suzuki's manufacturing tolerances allow them to make them the same length.  I'll go double-check it when I get back into town.

BTW:  Where's the cheapest/best place I can find a new cotterpin for the left side?

Randy

Any auto parts store will have a whole selection of cotter pins.  I personally always buy the "multi-pack" type boxes.  This way you have a few for the rear axle nut, a few for the front axle nut and a bunch of other sizes should you need them for some other project down the road.

-Turd.

Just a quick question that has always puzzled me. 

Why don't the Australian bikes have a cotter pin?

Hi there,
Yes, this is one of the worst features on the GS500 -- an idiot designed the chain adjusters on this bike. They have FAR TOO MUCH PLAY compared to other motorcycles I have owned and maintained in the last 31 years.

Here is a previous thread:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=24039.0

    Re: Wheel Alignment Pain!
« Reply #1 on: February 10, 2006, 08:08:08 AM »

Yes, the chain adjusters on the GS500 are the worst of any bike I've owned in the last 31 years. I have written about them here on the forums before. Ugh.
But as bad as they are, you need to get the wheels aligned correctly. The 4th notch on one side and the 5th notch on the other side of the swingarm is NOT acceptable because it will not handle correctly as you ride down the road.
You just have to take your time, loosen the axle and turn the adjuster nuts while pushing up on the FRONT BOTTOM of the chain adjusters to help get it all correctly set. Add to this that you must do the chain adjustments with the bike OFF its centerstand (it tensions the chain differently when the bike is off the centerstand and that's how Suzuki specifies this chain be adjusted), so it is quite literally a ballet in metal and adjusters as you adjust the adjusters and keep the bike up. I use the sidestand, set the adjusters, then check it by holding the bike upright. Then tighten the axle, tighten the adjuster locknuts, and check the chain tension as you hold the bike straight. There should be .5 to .75 inches of play in the middle span of the chain. If it feels right, then now you have to push the bike forward and back to be sure there are NO tight spots in the chain, where the adjustment is too tight. If one spot is too tight, then loosen the axle again and readjust the chain to make it properly tensioned at that place in the chain.
It is a hassle, believe me, but you need to do it right so the bike handles properly while you are on it.
I also recommend using a torque wrench to tighten the axle -- 36 to 58 ft.-lbs. -- when you are done. Then you won't have issues with damaged wheel bearings and bent brackets from overtightening.
And forget cotter pins. Long ago replaced my cotter pin with a reusable hitch pin clip, which works great. See a picture and sizes at:
http://www.westernwireprod.com/fastcontent/hitchpins.html



You can get them at any hardware store for cheap.
 
My first post on the adjusters, from 2004:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=8119.0

Be sure to adjust the chain with the bike OFF the centerstand so you get the correct free play. This is a pain because you have to be careful NOT to cause the bike to fall over as you do it.
Just remember, AN IDIOT DESIGNED THIS SYSTEM on this bike, and you will be fine. 
Best wishes,
Todd

The "v" notch brackets are accurate enough to align the rear wheels !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The first time I removed the rear wheel to take get the tire swapped out, the bike was down for a few days cause I couldn't align it right.  At the time I wasn't aware of GSTWIN.com...so I went to the dealership.  (used bike dealer, not brand specific)

The service guys were cool and allowed me to watch and learn.  Experience is the key. They didn't use hammers,didn't count threads or do anything "extra" that is not in the service manual.

the "trick" is to tighten the axel just enough so the tensioners can still be tightened effectively, but not so loose that you can bang it side to side with the palm of your hand.

SO...
#1: line up the "V" marks, and pull back on the rim to tighten the chain.
#2: tighten the axel, just enough
#3: then make your final adjustments.

if one chain tensioner is loose (usually brake side) you will have to start over again. trying to finish from this point is useless.

again, Experience is KEY. Be patient and give yourself time to learn.  Do it, ride it confirm its straight,  then loosen it and do it again, just to hone your technique.

I swapped out my rear "gunmetal" rim off my 99'(tire is bald) with my 01' silver rim.  15 minutes flat.  easy as pie.  no counting threads, no banging, just follow the service manual.

Quote from: Trwhouse on April 21, 2006, 08:26:46 AM
Be sure to adjust the chain with the bike OFF the centerstand so you get the correct free play. This is a pain because you have to be careful NOT to cause the bike to fall over as you do it.
Just remember, AN IDIOT DESIGNED THIS SYSTEM on this bike, and you will be fine. 
Best wishes,
Todd

Adjusting the chain "off" the centerstand, although recommended, is a pain in the ass.  It is way easier to do it on the centerstand and then check your freeplay after you've completed your adjustment. if its off your "technique" just needs to be honed.

It is a pain, but all you need is practice.  I wouldn'tsay it was an idiot design, just simplistic/cheap.  easy enough to work with though.

The GS500 chain adjusters have worked fine for me for over 110,000 miles.  Adjustments are made on the centerstand, that's what it's for.   

Hi there again,
Runsilent, I agree, it's easier to do the chain adjustment on the centerstand.
But the Suzuki shop manual for the bike says to do it on the sidestand for accurate adjustment and gives the .8 to 1.2 inch freeplay measurement based on the bike being on the sidestand.
The chain tension is entirely different when the bike is on the centerstand, so I do the adjustments the way the manual describes to be sure I'm getting it to the tension for which it's designed.
Are other people doing it the factory-recommended way or have they been using the centerstand and using a different measurement for chain slack on the centerstand?
An interesting topic.
Best wishes,
Todd

Quote from: Trwhouse on April 21, 2006, 08:52:45 AM
But the Suzuki shop manual for the bike says to do it on the sidestand for accurate adjustment and gives the .8 to 1.2 inch freeplay measurement based on the bike being on the sidestand.

That makes me glad I never bought a Suzuki shop manual.   

Quote from: Trwhouse on April 21, 2006, 08:52:45 AMThe chain tension is entirely different when the bike is on the centerstand, so I do the adjustments the way the manual describes to be sure I'm getting it to the tension for which it's designed.
Are other people doing it the factory-recommended way or have they been using the centerstand and using a different measurement for chain slack on the centerstand?

Just make sure that you have at least minimal chain slack when the bike sags to the point where front and rear sprocket and swingarm bearing align; that's the toautest position. If it's not pulled straight there, you're fine.
and if it is, you hear it; the chain will make a grinding noise entering the front sprocket when taut.

Wow, you guys make this really difficult.

Unless the adjusters are already out of alignment, you only have to adjust them, or back them off the same number of turns, equally.  Even if you remove the wheel for a tire change, or for a new chain and sprockets, you will only have to back them off the same number of turns equally.

Chain adjustment - With the bike on the centerstand, find the tightest spot on the chain.  I use a round screwdriver (philips) like an axle, or tensioner pulley, to push up in the middle of the lower run of chain to find the tight spot.  Observe where, at what position the rear wheel is, the spokes, or where the air valve is.

Then take the bike OFF the centerstand, and put it on the sidestand, move the bike back or forth (usually back) to position the rear wheel as above.  Check the chainslack.  If it is not within spec (usually too loose), then adjust it.

Loosen the axle, maybe tap it to the left, this will releive enough tension that you may tighten the adjusters evenly.

Just do a little bit at a time, as it is easier to tighten than to loosen it back up and start over again (I will explain this proceedure later).

Retighten the axle without the cotter pin, and check your slack; if it is within spec, good, you're done!  If not, loosen the axle again and tighten it up a little more and check.  Repeat til it is within spec.

If you overtighten the chain, loosen the axle, back off the adjusters the same amount, just a little beyond the last adjustment, stand up, grab the grabhandle, put your right foot on the rear wheel, pull on the grabhandle, and hold with you foot.  This should pull the bike (swingarm) back towards the adjuster plates.  Now, tighten up the adjsuters again, til proper tension is achieved.