Alright, so I finally got around to getting the correct pilot jets. So I figured while I'm in there I'll adjust the float heights to spec (by measuring), instead of just using the tube method.

Where do I measure on the float to get the correct distance?
Also, I assume I push the little metal tab down or up to adjust it, but is there a place to bend it that is better than others?

Thanks in advance.

apparently the measure method doesn't work, use the tube method

Quote from: LimaXray on April 25, 2006, 12:41:28 PM
apparently the measure method doesn't work, use the tube method

Why do you say that? I used the measure method to set mine the other week and it worked fine.

EDIT: If the carbs are upside down and the float is resting, it's the bottom lip of the part that sticks out a little bit...

Wow that isn't very clear.

dunno... I've read here like a 1000 times to use Kerry's method instead of the manual's method.  Never done it myself so I'm talking out of my ass

Quote from: AlphaFire X5 on April 25, 2006, 12:42:44 PM

EDIT: If the carbs are upside down and the float is resting, it's the bottom lip of the part that sticks out a little bit...

Wow that isn't very clear.

So I measure from the bottom lip thing that sticks out to the top of the flat metal part? 

*Edit: err...when the carb is upside down

Kerry's test is not a method to setting float height, it's simply an easy way to check whether or not it's correct.  I followed the directions in the Haynes manual and it came out perfect (checked by performing Kerry's test).  I'll write what I did by memory so don't take it as gospel:

1.  drain and remove carbs and detach float bowl.
2.  remove float assembly, needle valve and guide.  Clean them up and make sure they're not damaged or sticking.
3.  reinstall needle guide, valve, and float assembly making sure the needle seats properly in the guide.
4.  tip the carb until the needle starts sliding out of it's seat in the guide.  Carefully tilt it back until the needle seats fully, but not so much that the spring-loaded head of the needle starts to compress.  This is a little tricky at first, but if you have the assembly in front of you it will make sense.
5.  holding the carb in that position measure vertically from the gasket surface (with no gasket installed) to the highest edge of the plastic float chamber.  It should be 14-16 mm.  
6.  If you get an out of spec measurement double check that the needle valve is fully seated, but that the spring-loaded part of the needle is not compressed at all.  Make necessary adjustments to the float height by bending the tab on the float assembly.

-M

http://factorypro.com/tech/float_height_adj_procedure.html

Patrick

That's a good link, and the same process that I used.  I don't have one of those tools (and can't see spending $50 on one) so I just used a plain-ole metric ruler.

-M

Sweet, thanks for the link.

There's a lot of good stuff on the Factory site.

http://factorypro.com/tech/indextech.html

Patrick

Ok....yet another won't start deal....

I got all the jets in...shimmed the needles...set the float heights (got it spot on)...etc...

I started out with the air mixture screws set at 2.5 turns out.

Bike started, but ran really rich and would die if I gave it throttle.
So, I set the screws back in and took them out 2 turns; same problem.

ATM I sit at 1.5 turns out, same problem as before.

So, the plain, simple question is why won't my bike start?


Oh, also I wanted to know if the needles came with any washers on them stock. There seems to be 2 under each needle (at the bottom of the plunger thing) and there was already one where I was supposed to put another (between the c-clip and the donut thing)...
Is this right?

Thanks

I found it very hard to check float height when carbs are vertical. I came up with metod that let me check floats: put the carbs on their side, like if the bike would be on his side. There is a interval in float movement where they move freely, and one were they compress a spring and try to rebound. I compress them and let them rebound slowly untill they dont move by themselves anymore. Then floats are stable and not moving, so you can measure the height.

Hope this made any sense and will be helpfull to someone.

Quote from: skoebl on May 13, 2006, 04:32:50 PM
Oh, also I wanted to know if the needles came with any washers on them stock. There seems to be 2 under each needle (at the bottom of the plunger thing) and there was already one where I was supposed to put another (between the c-clip and the donut thing)...
Is this right?

No.
When we opened up 70 Cam Guy's stock carbs there were two additional brass washers in his that weren't in my stock, never-been-opened-before carbs.  One was above, and one was under each circlip.  His is a '91, mine's a '94.
I think the second 'unused' washer was placed in there so the owner wouldn't have to look for them when he wanted to slip the additional washer underneath.

Quote from: scratch on May 14, 2006, 08:27:32 AM
No.
When we opened up 70 Cam Guy's stock carbs there were two additional brass washers in his that weren't in my stock, never-been-opened-before carbs.  One was above, and one was under each circlip.  His is a '91, mine's a '94.
I think the second 'unused' washer was placed in there so the owner wouldn't have to look for them when he wanted to slip the additional washer underneath.

Interesting. Mine were under the doughnut.

But, good news, my bike lives!!! I had a lot of trouble with my floats. I would set them, put them on, put the tank back on, and check them; and they would be fine. Then, as if  by magic, they would end up waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay off (like 3 inches above the float bowls, yes, with gas coming out of the intake). So that took the majority of my day yesterday. I have no idea how far out my air mixture screws are, but I set it by turning them  half turn until the revs wouldn't increase anymore and I had good throttle response when I blipped it to 1/4.

So, in my frustrating rejetting I learned a lot. Now I should probably be able to do it to any bike 


Thanks for all the patient help you've all given me too (particularly Scratch)...without that I'd be soooo lost 

I put mine between the circlip and the doughnut so that i don't have to keep track of them when I disassemble my carbs.

[yt

omfg I can't believe this....It was running fine last night...now it won't start...


I swear I'm sooo close to just giving up....

My float height is off again...Now the right carb is lower (about 1/2 inch) than the other one (other one level with gasket).....

Adjust the right float only.  Try again.  Little steps.  Little by little we'll get it in tune.

Quote from: Wrecent_Wryder on May 14, 2006, 10:13:44 AM
I just put the extra washer between the donut and the washer that was under it.

Is there a plastic flying saucer type of washer that goes on top of all that, too?  The spring is supposed to keep the needle seated by pushing down on the saucer washer.
So, you're going to, or should have, two plastic washers in there.

g6