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bike wont start. water in tank?

Started by calvert0014, May 11, 2006, 07:58:27 AM

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calvert0014

i have been having a problem with my bike lately, it is a 91 with 21,000 miles on it. first of all about a week ago it was running perfectly but a couple of days ago i left it uncovered while i was raining for a little while. the next day when i went to ride i wouldnt start for nothin in the world, when i looked in the tank there was water at the bottom so i drained the entire tank the carbs an the fuel lines and got all the water out. when i put fresh gas in it, it ran perfectly again. but yesterday when there was alot of dew in the morning it wouldnt start again at all i did notice some small water droplets in the gas but not much. i spent all of yesterday trying to get i started. the problem is that gas is not getting to the engine. i open the drain plug and found that both carbs were full but still the spark plugs were dry. i cant figure out whats wrong i definately dont want to have to take the carburetors apart. Any suggestions?
1991 gs500e  w/ 21,000 mi

LimaXray

I don't think you should be getting water in the gas tank from just some rain or dew.  Try getting a bottle of dry gas and put that in the gas tank.

I would bet it's the ignition system.  As things get older, namely the plug wires, they don't work very well when they get wet.  It can get to the point where even high humidity will keep things from running.  Try getting some dielectric grease and putting a little in each spark plug and coil boot.  Also, there is this spray stuff that you can use to dry everything out.  Don't know what it's called, but if you go to the autoparts store they will know.

While you're at it, check the resistance of your spark plug wires with a multimeter and let us know what you get.
'05 GS500 : RU-2970 Lunchbox : V&H Exhaust : 20/65/145 : 15T : LED Dash : Sonic Springs : Braided Front Brake Line : E conversion with Buell Dual Headlight : SW-Motech Engine Gaurds ...

Wrecent_Wryder

#2
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calvert0014

yeah, you can it sort of sits at the bottom and when you shake the bike it moves around.

in response to LimaXray's post, i dont know but water gets in there somehow i think that the old fuel cap lets it in somehow. also, is it enough to be able to see the spark on the tip of the plug when it is out of the engine? or even though i see spark there could be an ignition problem?
1991 gs500e  w/ 21,000 mi

The Buddha

Crap pocket will get water and not quite let it get into the gas. Of course you have 3 gallons of water and you're screwed ... crap pocket will also rust out and make your life living hell ...
Cool.
Srinath.
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I run a business based on other people's junk.
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calvert0014

im at a total loss, i have to take my motorcycle test tmr morining and the bike wont start for nothing. all water is out of the tank and fuel lines, i bypassed the tank mounted petcock and i have run a line strait to the carbs, checked the carberator drain plugs, both bowls have gas in them but no gas isnt getting to the engine, both the spark plugs are dry when i pull them. also there definately is a spark. should i try and take the carbs apart tonight and see if something is clogged? need to get this fixed
1991 gs500e  w/ 21,000 mi

calvert0014

if the coils need to be replaced would you see any spark at all from the plugs. i am asking this because i finally was able to get fuel to the cylinders and when i take the plug out i do see a spark (not sure how bright it should be) but the bike will not start it wont even hint at it, ive got it hooked up to my cars battery (with engine off) and all it does is crank and crank like the plugs arent even connected. any sugestions?
1991 gs500e  w/ 21,000 mi

calvert0014

1991 gs500e  w/ 21,000 mi

GeeP

#8
Been there, done that.  My GS had 1.5 gallons of water in the tank when I bought it.   :laugh:

Here's what you do:

Go down to Wal Mart and buy the following:

8 quarts of 92% rubbing alcohol
2 cans of carb cleaner
1 roll of paper towels

You will also need:

1 metric socket set to remove the tail plastics and tank
1 #2 phillips screwdriver
1 standard screwdriver
1 plastic hammer (to drive out emulsion tube)
1 pair needle nose pliers (to fiddle with the control cables)
1 pair safety glasses
1 pair chemical gloves
1 container to hold the contaminated gas
1 large LIGHT COLORED dishwashing bowl or similar


Method:

Turn the petcock off and mark the location of the petcock hoses.  Remove the fuel line to the carburetors and put it in the container.  Put your petcock in the "prime" position and drain all the fuel.

Remove the tail plastics and then remove the tank.  Turn your petcock to the "off" position.  Now dump TWO bottles of rubbing alcohol into the tank.  Close the lid and shake like hell in all directions for several minutes.  The alcohol will combine with the water, even in tiny crevices, and remove it from the tank.  It will also dislodge whatever crap is within the tank so you can flush it out.

After shaking for several minutes open the cap, turn the tank upside-down and shake out all the alcohol into the dishwashing bowl.  You'll see water and crap.  Dump the bowl where you don't mind killing the grass and repeat three more times.  By the third load the alcohol should be coming out clean.  On the last batch, turn the petcock to "prime" and allow some alcohol to run though the lines and petcock.

Your tank should now be spotless inside.  Put it aside, now we get to do the carbs.  I hope you have a Clymer's manual available, if it's your first time you'll likely be needing it.

Remove the carbs from the engine.  Disassemble them ONE AT A TIME on your kitchen table.  This will prevent mixing parts, and will also make it easier to find whatever you drop.  Start by removing the float bowl, vacuum cap, and slide.

Look for crap in the bottom of the float bowl.  Next, remove the float, float needle, main jet, and idle jet.  Remove the emulsion tube from the housing, being careful not to break the slide guide.  Trick:  Unscrew the main jet all the way, then re-thread it about a half-turn.  Tap on it with a plastic hammer to remove the emulsion tube.  Hold the carburetor in your hand, DO NOT place it on a table such that the slide guide will contact the table as the emulsion tube is unseated.  You may have to gently remove the emulsion tube from the slide guide once you have removed the assembly from the carburetor body.

Now take out your safety glasses, chemical gloves, and carb cleaner.  Put the straw on the can and spray the hell out of every passage from both directions.  Use the whole can if necessary.

Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.  Be especially careful that the floats operate freely.  Mechanic's trick:  GENTLY shake the carburetors up and down once assembled, the floats will sometimes stick.  If you can hear them rattling they're not stuck.

Put it all back together and put a gallon of gas in it.  Pull your spark plugs to check for fouling.  If fouled, you can get by if you brush them thoroughly with a brass brush.  Reinstall and fire it up.  Remember:  You'll need to put the petcock in the "prime" position to start it the first time.

You should be able to get this thing running tonight, in time your test tomorrow.   :)

Keep the thing out of the rain, and keep the tank full to prevent condensation from forming in the tank.  If your cap leaks, go to the local sign shop and have them cut out a circle of magnetic sign material in your favorite color.  Make it about 3" larger than the gas cap.  Just slap that on there to keep the rain out.

Good luck on your test.   :thumb:
Every zero you add to the tolerance adds a zero to the price.

If the product "fails" will the product liability insurance pay for the "failure" until it turns 18?

Red '96
Black MK2 SV

calvert0014

thank you so much for your response and i will definately do that (unfortunately i missed my appointment). but first i want to make sure that dirty gas is the only issue. i am getting fuel(can see it and smell it) to the cylinders and there is a spark (not sure how strong its supposed to be) , i have taken the fuel filter out so air isnt an issue, and it ran good a few days ago so compression didnt magiaclly dissapear. but when i try to start it just cranks and there isnt any signs that it is even thinking about starting. even if not well , under those conditions it should run right? i have been through the manual a dozen times looking for something that i missed. 
1991 gs500e  w/ 21,000 mi

calvert0014

well im just going to clean the carbs an the tank and if that doesnt im going to take a slege hammer to it.
1991 gs500e  w/ 21,000 mi

The Buddha

Sell to me cheap ... right before the sledge hammer part ...  :laugh:
Cool.
Srinath.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
I run a business based on other people's junk.
-----------------------------------------------------------------

GeeP

Quote from: calvert0014 on May 13, 2006, 08:56:54 AMwhen i try to start it just cranks and there isnt any signs that it is even thinking about starting. even if not well , under those conditions it should run right? i have been through the manual a dozen times looking for something that i missed. 

Not necessarily, you need the right amount of fuel for it to run.  If you can smell fuel it's likely flooded.  Remove both plugs and motor the engine over for a few seconds.  Then leave it for an hour or so.  Put fresh plugs back in.  Charge the battery while you're cleaning the tank and carbs, just not in the same room.   ;)
Every zero you add to the tolerance adds a zero to the price.

If the product "fails" will the product liability insurance pay for the "failure" until it turns 18?

Red '96
Black MK2 SV

calvert0014

alright i finally got it fixed, it was the carbs they were filthy, i got a fuel filter put in and i used GeeP's method to get all traces of water out of the tank. everything seems to be fine im just happy it wasnt anything electrical. thanks everybody!!!
1991 gs500e  w/ 21,000 mi

GeeP

Glad to hear it.   :thumb:

I meant to mention an in-line fuel filter, but forgot all about it.  If it's one of those little translucent thingys replace it after the first few tanks of gas, then every year. 

If it's a sintered bronze filter you clean it after the first few tanks, then once a year.
Every zero you add to the tolerance adds a zero to the price.

If the product "fails" will the product liability insurance pay for the "failure" until it turns 18?

Red '96
Black MK2 SV

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