K&N pods...Yes it will run lean as hell till you put in 40's and you need 150 mains with aftermarket slip on (stock pipe would probably need 147.5 or 145's I think) and start with 3 turns out on the mix screws and go out or in. Floats should be set at the top of the float bowl by the u tube method and 1 washer for a 1/2 mm lift under needle.
I doubt you are rich with that setup...unless your choke is stuck open or something, Lean as hell is more like it. Your idle screw may be too much open causing slide jumping at idle. Intake air leak...spray wd-40 around the manifolds and see if the idle goes up or smoke from the pipe. make sure you dont let the wd-40 get into the air filter.
Cool.
Srinath.

If it is supposed to be running lean because the filter, why are my spark plugs fouling up with sooty black carbon?

I mean I wouldn't mind running it rich if only it wouldnt foul up my spark plugs.

I took a good look at the needle jet and it looks worn, so I will get some new ones this week. My jet needle, which is stock, looks fine though!

Oh and my slide springs seem too short.. looking at the specs the modified springs should be at least 4 inches, but my springs are 3.75.

My coils have been tested and are running with good voltage. There is good compression in both cylinders.


Kellie

The springs being short may mean someone chopped them but see if the ends arelooking like they were cut. I know you have some funky drilled out jets etc but I have never seen a GS run rich...really...unless the choke was stuck open or mix screws open too much or some like that. Dont start replacing stuff at random. The needles (the ones in the slide) dont wear out, and the float needles if they are closing off fuel flow they are OK.
Cool.
Srinath.

Hi guys,

Well I gave up and took my bike to a suzuki dealer, they spent 5 hours on it ($65 CAD per hour) and could not work out what was wrong with it. They are recommending I get new carbs. One interesting point to make is that they didn't try replacing any parts in the carb, upon inspection the parts appeared to be fine.

Tell me if I'm beign ripped off here:
1.5 hours to pull carbs apart, check and put together
1.5 hours to check the timing
1.5 hours to check the valves

Does anyone have any suggestions? Also, because they couldn't find anything wrong with it, would it be wrong to ask the dealer for a discount?
Also, does my bike have a stock carb called a Mikuni BST33? (GS500E 96) and is this label anywhere on my carbs?
Would anyone know what other carbs would work on my bike?

Thanks

Kellie

Kell send me your carbs... I'll set them on my bike/s and send back to you. Or hell I'll sort out Rashad carbs when they get here and swap them with yours when they get here.
Its too painful to see you suffer like this. And I'd pull the carbs into tiny pieces in a hour and a half and in werase's words I am a fat lazy man...
In most cases I'll be done with a valve adjustment in 1.5 hours If I was lazing through it. But that includes draining the gas and putting it back together which BTW is included when the carbs are taken out.
timind and vlaves are the same thing. Unless they are checking it electrically.
OK Sent me info on any special setup you have also. Pipe and K&N or something right.
Cool.
Srinath.

Srinath, thats great of you to offer to look at them. I will take up that offer. Firstly, I spotted another post here which talked about Bleeder pilot jets.. well I have those... I have ordered the NON bleeder type #40 and will try that first.. it could be as simple as that.. I know you say that that kind of thing doesn't matter.. but a few people here have said when they changed pilots, their idle problem stopped. I'm fairly sure we have adjusted our fuel screws properly and it fixed nothing (Im sure the mechanic did too).. so will try one more thing.

These are my stats:
GS500e 96
Mikuni carbs (dont know model number but it fits on my engine properly)
3.0 bleeder Pilot jets (hole is size 40)
126 main jets (bike runs terrifc at 1/4 throttle onwards!)
Stock pipe
K&N air filter dual POD
The Slides have 2 holes at the bottom of each, one has been plugged up
The Needle (which sits in the slide) is stock and doesnt look worn or scratched. The C-clip is at the top of the needle which has 4 notches - (remember we are too rich so thats why I havent adjusted it)
The Needle jet (the hole) seems to be stock with slight wear.. making it a slight egg shape. I don't think this would cause the idling problem though?
The floats were set by the mechanic, I dont know what setting that is yet.
Everything else is stock.

Kellie

Quote from: KeLLSrinath, thats great of you to offer to look at them. I will take up that offer. Firstly, I spotted another post here which talked about Bleeder pilot jets.. well I have those... I have ordered the NON bleeder type #40 and will try that first.. it could be as simple as that.. I know you say that that kind of thing doesn't matter.. but a few people here have said when they changed pilots, their idle problem stopped. I'm fairly sure we have adjusted our fuel screws properly and it fixed nothing (Im sure the mechanic did too).. so will try one more thing.

These are my stats:
GS500e 96
Mikuni carbs (dont know model number but it fits on my engine properly)
3.0 bleeder Pilot jets (hole is size 40)
126 main jets (bike runs terrifc at 1/4 throttle onwards!)
Stock pipe
K&N air filter dual POD
The Slides have 2 holes at the bottom of each, one has been plugged up
The Needle (which sits in the slide) is stock and doesnt look worn or scratched. The C-clip is at the top of the needle which has 4 notches - (remember we are too rich so thats why I havent adjusted it)
The Needle jet (the hole) seems to be stock with slight wear.. making it a slight egg shape. I don't think this would cause the idling problem though?
The floats were set by the mechanic, I dont know what setting that is yet.
Everything else is stock.

Kellie

OK Bleed vs non bleed...some have said bleed makes it rich, others have said it worked fine...I am going to be putting in some bleed jets in mine and trying them out. Till then call me on the fence on that.

126 is rather small, but you have a DJ kit in it right. You can actually compensate for one short comming by changing something else that will kill the running somewhere else.
In your case I think 126 is too small, but the floats have been set so high that it doesn't show up as lean up high but its now rich down low. U tube method for the float and tell me where it is.
I think 128 should be the right jets for the main and lower the floats to the level of the float bowl gasket and that should clean up the thing almost entirely. Then open the mix screw to where it behaves right at idle.
That is exactly why DJ and factory says you need to get the main jet working right before you fiddle with the rest of it. Mains followed by needle then floats then pilots then mix screw.
Anyway send them and I'll sort it out.
Cool.
Srinath.

Ya know what? that makes sense Srinath...

I will go buy 128 mains.. should I get any larger ones as well? The store is good for returning goods not needed.

Let me try it out here (I have a guy that helps me out here), and if I can't get the bugger running, I'll send them.

Kellie

No check your floats. The 2 should be exactly equal and be right at the float bowl to carb body mating face. If its higher than that by more than 2 mm get 128's (if you have DJ's you should already have 128's in the kit as part of the kit) else get 127.5 and 130 mikuni. Then send it to me.
Cool.
Srinath.

I am so excited!! I received my 40 non bleeder pilots in the post and installed them on my bike the same day. I also got 2 emulsifier tubes (the tube the jet needle goes down) which, when compared to my old ones, showed that my old ones were very worn and I could visibly see a size difference in the hole. Anyway I'm not sure which one cured my problem, but ITS FIXED! After $400 of wasted mechanic time, I fix it myself. I am pretty sure it was the pilot jets. ITS LIKE MUSIC TO MY EARS  :mrgreen:

Anyway... I just have one slight problem which im sure is easy to fix... my bike now bogs when i open the throttle..sometimes the idle sticks up high and then comes down. I am wondering if this is a too rich problem or too lean? It will bog straight away when I go into first gear and try and take it for a ride.. I had it out at 3 turns.. lessened the turns and it did not improve it..

These are my new bike stats:
40 non bleeder pilots
128.8 mains (thanks to snirath's advice)
Floats are exactly level with gasket

Should I be turning the fuel screw out more? I don't really know what Im supposed to be listening for when I turn the screws out.
Also, my idle screw... should i just unscrew it so that it's not opening the butterfly things? and.. umm which way do I need to screw to unscrew it?

WOO HOO
Kellie - back on the road soon!

Oh and my jet needle clip is on the top notch.

Kellie

Bog when taking off could be lean...Idle hover definitely lean. ride it 15 mins or so to get it nice and warm/hot then back to your driveway and let it idle for 3 mins or so. Then shut it off. Wait till it cools sufficiently and pull the plugs and see. If they show white/light grey...you're lean. Open the air screw out 1/2 turn. and repeat...Till both plugs dark brown/choclate...Do only 1 change at a time and after each do a thorogh test. Idle screw is that flower shaped thing pointing down wards from the carbs. Set the idle at ~1500 when hot. You jet it to be right at 1500 and it should idle right about 1500 when you are ready to take the choke off - Warmed up.
Bog when taking off may also be slide lifting too fast. We can fix that later though...fix air screw first.
Cool.
Srinath.

Quote from: seshadri_srinathThe springs being short may mean someone chopped them but see if the ends arelooking like they were cut. I know you have some funky drilled out jets etc but I have never seen a GS run rich...really...unless the choke was stuck open or mix screws open too much or some like that. Dont start replacing stuff at random. The needles (the ones in the slide) dont wear out, and the float needles if they are closing off fuel flow they are OK.
Cool.
Srinath.

I have the same problem as Kell. Black smoke out of exhaust, rough idle, sooty plugs. If you saw my previous post, I can improve idle by holding the left plug wire about 3/8" off the plug tip. I think that the extra voltage from the air gap is helping fire through the rich condition. Also where does the upper rubber nipple betwenn the carbs go? If I plug this, the bike run alot better, I know it is supposed to be vented but if I know where it goes I can figure out what plugging is doing to the mixture.

Here's the setup now:
150 / 40 / 3 turns out / 2 washers
no air filter (KN pod is going on as soon as I get it running half decent)
drilled stock can (i know bottleneck)
carbs cough back when they "cough" or when the motor stalls out

The rubber nipple between carbs...goes to the petcock vacuum fitting. makes it suck air if its not in...Plug that and jet the bike after that...You have it too rich.
Cool.
Srinath.

Quote from: seshadri_srinathThe rubber nipple between carbs...goes to the petcock vacuum fitting. makes it suck air if its not in...Plug that and jet the bike after that...You have it too rich.
Cool.
Srinath.

Mine has the petcock coming off a nipple on the left carb's right side up by the manifold. The much larger rubber nipple (above the fuel inlet) has much less if any vacuum compared to the smaller metal nipple the petcock is connected to now.

Thanks.

Show me in Bike bandits diagram...but If that is there on both crabs and they are interconnected with a T fitting I believe it goes to nothing. A hose connects to it and goes to the back to thin air...Its to empty your floats if you drop the bike.
Cool.
Srinath.

Quote from: seshadri_srinathShow me in Bike bandits diagram...but If that is there on both crabs and they are interconnected with a T fitting I believe it goes to nothing. A hose connects to it and goes to the back to thin air...Its to empty your floats if you drop the bike.
Cool.
Srinath.

Yes it's the one that goes to nothing. Thing is if I block it the motor runs much better.

Hey but is anyone gonna help me with my questions?

My petcock is linked to the Carb vaccuum outlet at the top.

I just tried my bike again.. I know the bike doesnt start without the choke in and the throttle closed so Im happy about that... I think I have my Pilot jet finally okay.. now the other jet.. is it too rich or lean.. its hard to troubleshoot.. at the moment I cant even make the bike move when trying to leave from first gear.. it wants to stall the more i open the throttle. I will go outside and mess with it more.

Kellie

Okay well I found out what the problem was with not being able to take off in first gear. I was turning the idle screw the wrong way. I have now unscrewed it off the throttle and now my bike works NORMAL. I am so happy!!  

Even my spark plugs have a BROWN colour

My bike starts from cold only when the choke is in and the throttle is closed (yay). When it warms up and I take the choke off, the RPM stays at about 1700. When I bleep the throttle there is great response.. and it doesnt hang or bog down. Taking it for a ride, it is not sluggish in any throttle position, and it doesn't lurch either.

There is no strong smell of gas anymore, the exhaust isn't white or dark
this is a miracle I tell you!!

Kellie - ON THE ROAD AGAIN (touching wood)  

Quote from: KeLLHey but is anyone gonna help me with my questions?

My petcock is linked to the Carb vaccuum outlet at the top.

I just tried my bike again.. I know the bike doesnt start without the choke in and the throttle closed so Im happy about that... I think I have my Pilot jet finally okay.. now the other jet.. is it too rich or lean.. its hard to troubleshoot.. at the moment I cant even make the bike move when trying to leave from first gear.. it wants to stall the more i open the throttle. I will go outside and mess with it more.

Kellie

Not trying to hijack the thread Kell... I am having the exact same problems. I thought it would help both of us to figure out what the problem is.