My GS500 has 13.5K on it and the front brakes are starting to go.  Aside from changing the spark plugs, oil, air filter (K&N), and lubing the chain I've never done any real maintenace on the bike.  What else should I get done when I bring it into the shop for new front pads?

She definitely needs the valve clearance check!

With a socket wrench, a 14mm socket, some pliers and a large screwdriver (or other lever) you can change the front pads yourself, in 5 to 10 minutes.  (I'm assuming a 1996-2000 model here; I haven't messed with other setups.)

But with 13,000+ miles you're right - there are probably several things that need to be checked and possibly adjusted.

The big one that stands out in my mind is valve clearances.  If you're lucky, most of them will still be in spec.  But there's a good chance that at least one shim will need to be swapped out.

To get an idea of other stuff that the shop (or you) may want to do, check out the GS500 Maintenance Schedule.

How about rear pads Kerry. Are they also easy to change at home?

Barring a rusted retaining dowel, or hitch pin...yes!

I would also change fork oil; by the sounds of it you probably change your brake fluid.

Sorry - I "stepped away" for a bit.

I created a HOW TO: Rear Rotor Replacement topic in the FAQ area a year and a half ago, which included pictures and text for replacing the rear brake pads as well.  But the topic is currently empty!?!

I haven't had time to try to recreate the text, but here are the pictures for the brake pad part.

NOTE: You don't need to remove the wheel.  It happened to be off because of the rear rotor replacement.







While pulling that first pin out, push down on the springs with your free hand.  If you don't, each spring will SPROING! as the pin clears it, and may even catch you in the eye. 









Since your new pads will be thicker than the old ones, you may need to retract the piston a bit.  If you're feeling lazy, just use one of the old pads as a lever to force it back into the housing.  (There must be a better way!)

Also, when you put the new pads and shims in they will want to fall right through the opening.  You need to hold them in place with one hand (one pad at a time) as you thread the first pin through the holes with the other hand.

Thanks so much Kerry!
You are an inspiration to me,  thanks to your video I successfully did my own valve clearance check a couple of weeks back (all were OK, one intake valve is getting close at .03mm but decided to leave it alone for now) the fuel hoses were quite old so those were replaced along with air filter and spark plugs, bike is running as good as new 
Once again thanks 
Daniel

If it weren't for riders like you that make the concious decision to pick up a wrench, all of my pictures and copy would just be wasted time, effort and electrons.

Let's hear it for the DIY crowd! 

Thanks so much for all the great info on this forum. I used this to give me the confidence to replace my rear brake pads. It's a good job I changed them when I did. I won't leave them so long next time. I also took the sprocket cover off (used this site for advice) that was a messy job, it was thick with sludge. Keep up the good work.

These are great photos. I wish I had found them before I did my first brake job. Kerry is awesome. I use his posts all the time and his valve job video was more help than any other source. I also always refer to Kerry's site when I want to order parts like brake pads and rotors... This whole site is amazing thanks to people like Kerry.