I recently email GSTWIN.com about over torquing the bolt and it snapped off.  My poor baby was dripping oil.  I was so concerned I ruined the bike, but I asked around, and I asked my Mechanical Engineering professor also and he said it is just a double threaded bolt.  So yesterday while it was nice out I took it out and he gave me a new stud to put in.  My baby purs now, I just bought her so she isn't regiestered yet, but she still desreved a ride around the block.  Just letting people know when doing an oil change, DONT OVER TORQUE THE BOLTS.  I went out right away and bought a 70$ Chraftsman torque rench.  I have no pictures of her right now, I will have my dad take a few.  Shes nice, Vance and Hines exhaust, Jet Kit, New paint job...I just got her for 950$ from a friend.  The only thing is that the left blinker works, but the right works, but it stays lit and doesn't blink.  I checked the bulbs and switched them, so that leaves me to think that it is the relay.
What do other people think it is?  Thanks
Sincerely,
Brandon

i over tightend one of my bolts but it didn't snap
thread got ruined :x

my bike's elektronics where screwed up to, only my brake light worked
so i rewired the whole thing

the left blinker works but the right works, and it stays lit?  
if left or right does blink it's not the blinker relay cause the blinking is controlled by the same relay

But how much does it cost? Where can I get the wires? and How hard is it?  Thanks...

overtightening the bolts is a common problem. They're very delicate.

Read on for a fix:
http://pantablo500.tripod.com/id10.html

Welcome to the forum too. Lots of good people here with lots of info. Hopefully one will have an answer for you about the trun signal. Only thing I can think of is an incomplete circuit-wire touching ground or something related to the specific wires of that turn signal. Check the wiring for fraying at the connections esp.

So... what is the correct torque for the oil cover nuts?  If the bolts are 6mm, is it around 7 ft-lbs?  I ask, because mine is leaking after an oil change, and it's awfully tempting to just tighten them down some more (I did not use a torque wrench to tighten them).  

I'd rather not dump all the nice new synthetic oil out just to clean the surfaces again and retorque those nuts.  Should the mating surface around the oil cover o-ring be dry and free of oil to insure a good seal?  Do you need to remove the o-ring, or just leave it in-place (it looked like it was in good shape, and I did not remove it during the oil change.)

if its leaking make sure your gasket is mounted right with a little bit of oil smeared on it..  before you tighten it down.. if the gasket is worn just replace it.

I buy the STP-SMO-00 filter and it comes with a gasket, the last time i did a change i replaced it even though it didnt need to be done, and this time i will do so too.. why keep an extra gasket when it comes along with teh filter anycase.

Quote from: Rema1000[...]Should the mating surface around the oil cover o-ring be dry and free of oil to insure a good seal?  Do you need to remove the o-ring, or just leave it in-place[...]

I don't think "dry" and "free of oil" are necessary, but it MUST be free of grit or particles of any kind.  For me, the best way to ensure that is to:

* Remove the O-ring
* Clean the entire mating surface and the O-ring groove
*  Wipe off the O-ring itself (lint-free, of course), or use a new one
* Don't forget to similarly clean the mating surface on the engine block!  It's easy to neglect that area, since it's kinda hard-to-get-to in between the exhaust pipes.  And the front tire does a good job of distributing lots of "grit" in that area.

Before reassembling I dip my finger in a fresh quart of oil and put a couple of drops in each segment of the O-ring groove.  After I install the O-ring in the groove I smear it with a thin layer of clean oil.

PS - Someone recently told us about taking off JUST the oil filter, without pulling the drain plug.  They said that a surprisingly small amount of oil drained out, nowhere near the total capacity.  Care to confirm that for us?   :mrgreen:

I forgot one little item.

You also need to make sure that the O-ring hasn't slipped OUT of the groove and gotten pinched between the mating faces.  Guaranteed oil leak when that happens....

I'm pretty-sure the o-ring was looking good (without pulling it out); I cleaned both sides of the cover with WD40 and Viva towels (not lint-free).

The leak is small: when I park it, I see about 2 drops on the ground within a minute.

My first plan of attack will be to take-off the domed nuts one at a time, clean them (wd40), add loctite-red, put back and use a torque wrench this time (but what torque?)

If that fails, then I'll take the whole thing off and remove the o-ring.  Too bad my genuine Suzuki oil filter did not come with a replacement o-ring.

For that matter, my oil drain bolt didn't have one on (probably the previous owner threw it away after finding it the cause of a leak, or something).  It was a real pain to use a torque wrench on the drain plug, since the torque scale faces the floor.  I had to use a mirror to see the torque scale!

I was semi-kidding about the "lint-free" part - I'm sure the paper towels I usually use AREN'T.

This is a long shot, but ... the drips you're getting are definitely new motor oil?  Light golden color?  And they're coming from the oil filter cover?

I only ask on the outside chance that you're actually getting black gooey drips from somewhere around your shifter lever, which would be accumulated chain lube.

------

As far as the torque value for the domed nuts, I couldn't say.  I just get them "snug" - which I'm sure doesn't help much.

If you DO end up taking the cover back off, you might want to buy a $3.00 FRAM CH6000 (or the STP filter mentioned previously), just to have a new O-ring to try.  You could reuse it when you install the aftermarket filter at your next oil change, perhaps.

I am not sure red Loc-tite is such a good idea.  We use it at work and a lot of the nuts are REALLY hard to remove.  With the fragile nature of the oil-drain studs, this may not be good.  

I don't use a torque wrench on these studs.  Just good and snug.  No leaks at all in 7800 miles and 4 or 5 oil changes.

dont use loctite.. you will never get those bolts off.....

Oh the nuts will come off but you'll snap the studs when they do!

i had recently done my first oil change on a gs, and 1. re-used the o ring, and the washer on the drainplug. (which i dont believe in, but i was broke), i did not torque them (either one) and so far no leaks. as far as your torque wrench goes, might consider using a clicker type wrench. easier to use in hard to see areas. ive got dial,clicker,&beam type wrenches. the clicker gets used the most. also i dont even torque the spark-plugs  as far as that goes use whichever wrench that you like. and either get a printout of the torque specs from a dealer, or get a clymer manual. (available from this site :mrgreen: )which i need to do also

Quote from: The_good_guyif its leaking make sure your gasket is mounted right

...and...

Quote from: KerryYou also need to make sure that the O-ring hasn't slipped OUT of the groove and gotten pinched between the mating faces.  Guaranteed oil leak when that happens....

You guys got it in one: I removed each nut one-at-a-time, inspected and retightened, but still had a small leak: one drop per 17 seconds.  So I finally said good-bye to my nice synth oil and removed the cover.  Sure-enough, the o-ring had slipped and gotten squished.  In-fact, the squished part was so squished that it looked more like a smear, and had to be rubbed-off with paper towel (guess I overtorqued those nuts!).  I didn't have a spare gasket yet, so I cleaned the old one up, put the cover back on, and it's holding for-now (no leak).

Quote from: KerrySomeone recently told us about taking off JUST the oil filter, without pulling the drain plug.  They said that a surprisingly small amount of oil drained out, nowhere near the total capacity.  Care to confirm that for us?   :mrgreen:

Well, I didn't remove the oil filter; just the cover.  And I lost only 1/3 to 1/2 quart of oil.  After the inital 1/4-cup came-out, there was a steady little trickle the whole time I was cleaning-up the cover.  I assumed that a little oil was flowing through the filter.  But maybe the filter element was just draining itself slowly, and I wouldn't have lost any more oil, even with the filler cap open and the filter off.

I think next time I replace the O-ring, I'll have a mirror laying under the filter cover, so I can see the O-ring.  Also, now that I think about it, the bottom nut felt "different" from the other two last nuts time (when the o-ring slipped):  the other two went from loose to snug within a quarter-turn; but the bottom nut was mostly-snug, but would still turn a bit more.  I thought that maybe the bolt was starting to slip, but I guess the O-ring was just getting squished.

Too bad my genuine Suzuki part #16510-45040 "FILTER,ENGINE O" didn't come with a replacement O-ring.