was it tight enough to affect the compression?

what does low compression do to a honda car?

does the same thing to a bike

Quote from: CRXDrew on July 08, 2006, 01:50:16 PMchecked the valves and both exhaust valves were tight.

R side 2.55 (couldn't get the .038 in there)

L side 2.60 (.038 also didn't go)

You didn't mention whether you could still spin the bucket (in which  the shim sits).  If you can't, you have 0 clearance ... or even "less".  This is where you pop in a "test shim" (say, 2.30 or 2.40) and measure the clearance with thicker feeler blades.

See the "TOO TIGHT" notes on my Valve Shim Selection Chart.

sorry again for the slow response. I was riding my bike... which runs PERFECTLY!!!!!!!!!

R Ex I was able to the the bucket to spin a bit.

L Ex There was no turning the bucket.

Ran to a local shop/dealer and they had plenty of shims in stock and I bought a 250 and 245. The guy even gave me a better price than quoted over the phone. 5 bucks instead of 10 each.  to DGY motorsports. I put a 245 where the 255 was and a 250 where the 260 was. With the 245 I got the .038 in with it being a BIT loose. Lol, my .051 was bent up pretty bad probably from my friend borrowing the feeler but I imagine it is somewhere in the .04x for clearance. On the tighter Left side the 250 was just a lil tight. The .038 just barely got in, so i think its sitting right around .030. I could get another shim and i think I will but later when I feel like tearing up stuff to take lots of fun pics.

Quote from: werase643 on July 08, 2006, 02:31:13 PM
was it tight enough to affect the compression?

what does low compression do to a honda car?

does the same thing to a bike

I dunno if the terms are correct but a poor valve adjustment can drastically throw off the vac that is created by an engine (at least in my experience). I now recall adjusting the valves on my CRX many years ago and I messed up, possibly not adjusting one of the valves when the lobe was all the way loose. Anyway... I ended up making the valve really loose or something like that. I ran the car- and it warmed up. Not heeding the directions of the manual at the time I did the adjustment again with a pretty warm engine. At the time everything seemed cool, engine was quiet no loose chatter but the idle sucked. I believe the valves not having the chance to open all the way screwed with something (compression of each stroke?) and that ended up effecting my vac at idle. My car idled like crap, probably due to my MAP sensor reading funky pressures and my ECU trying to compensate. yada yada yada


With the bike I believe that the tight valves led again to a screwed up vac. And I didn't even think of it until werase said that the pilots pull fuel with the pilots using a venturi effect. Anyway.... long story short I checked the valves, they were tight, i loosened em and now my bike runs extra sweeeeet.

I believe that my bike was essentially starving itself by not being able to pull enough fuel through the pilot jets.

Anyone find anything wrong with anything I typed? I'm gonna try to write up and picture document solutions to the "3k idle hang" for the FAQ.

please do me a favor.....check the comp...hot with the throttle WFO


also do a plug chop at idle and at high speed

this will give you large info on your engine


carbs are not that difficult....the concept has been around for 100 yrs
actually really difficult to copy analog with digital(FI)

there is only 1 or 2 gud set-up for the carbs....
wuth the exception of compensating for elevation

What is a plug chop?

yea, i'll do a compression test later. At this point there is no reason for me to suspect low compression. The bike doesn't burn a drop of oil nor is there an excess of oil coming from the valve cover breather/crankcase (very little blow-by).

what is WFO?

I have checked the plugs at mostly every rpm now. It is slightly rich up top but pretty much perfect everywhere else. The bike runs perfectly now. Yea i suppose carbs are simple but keep in mind this is my first exposure to carbs in any form or fashion. At first I had no idea where to start, I believe I have grasped a full understanding of them at this point. Definitely a different game from sitting on my laptop in the CRX changing fuel/timing tables while mapping AFR with the wideband.

Quote from: Egaeus on July 09, 2006, 07:03:43 AMWhat is a plug chop?

A "plug chop" is where you run the bike at a certain throttle position (not speed, not RPMs, but throttle position) and then flip the engine kill switch to "chop" the engine.  If you're actually riding down the road, you need to pull in the clutch at the same time and coast to a stop.  Then you pull the plugs to check their "color".

Quote from: CRXDrew on July 09, 2006, 12:10:15 PMwhat is WFO?

"Wide Full Open" - although most use a different word that starts with 'F'.