yeah it is worth it... you'll have a turbo'd GS, which would be farking awesome, not to mention it would be a cool project

shaZam! id buy a kit if someone made it

Oh god another R6/GSX/CBR boy...........

Serenity now, Serenity now........................

Anyways, RangerBrown my head hurts, but I'm going to the library, I'll start running more numbers and asking my local shop.

Oh BTW it's like 500 to 1000 on a turbo plus whatever ranger brown does not fabricate himself. (I think he'll be fabbing the whole thing)

So tell me, where can I procure a 600cc 02 or newer sportbike in great condition for 500 - 1000 dollars?

The defense rests its' case.

lets see...

turbo - $500
turbo flange - $30
misc intake/exhaust piping - $50
misc intake couplers - $20
oil fittings/lines - $80 (yeah not cheap)
Megasquirt - $130
misc wire/connectors - $20
used side mount intercooler - $20
cheapie blow off valve - $40
cheapie adjustable fuel pressure regulator - $30
cheapie manual boost controler - $10
used fuel pump - $20
fuel fittings/lines - $30
2x fuel injectors - free (he already has them)
misc nuts/bolts/etc - $20
used boost/EGT/oil temp/fuel presure gauges  - $150
dyno time - $100 (just a guess, never took a bike to a dyno before, but in any case it's cheaper and better than buying your own wide band O2 sensor and tuning it yourself)

TOTAL - ~$1250 with moderate eBaying/junk yarding and doing your own fabrication/welding... with a little more leg work you could probably get it done cheaper

it does start to nickel and dime you to death, trust me on that one, but it's so worth it to be able to say 'yeah I made that'... in any case, if he shops the parts he can keep it to about a grand, far cheaper than a SS would cost... not to mention the PIMP FACTOR and how freaking awesome it would sound

Id freakin love to hear a GS500FT   (T's for turbo) 

BRRRRRRRRRRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

PSSssssssssssssssssssssssss

BRAAAAAAAaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaannnnnnnnn

PSSSsssssssssssssssssssssss

That preassure blow off valve sounds so sexy.   

ah crap.... i gotta change my pants now

yea this is what i have come up with as well.

Quote from: LimaXray on July 10, 2006, 05:40:59 PM
lets see...

turbo - $500
turbo flange - $30
misc intake/exhaust piping - $50
misc intake couplers - $20
oil fittings/lines - $80 (yeah not cheap)
Megasquirt - $130
misc wire/connectors - $20
used side mount intercooler - $20
cheapie blow off valve - $40
cheapie adjustable fuel pressure regulator - $30
cheapie manual boost controler - $10
used fuel pump - $20
fuel fittings/lines - $30
2x fuel injectors - free (he already has them)
misc nuts/bolts/etc - $20
used boost/EGT/oil temp/fuel presure gauges - $150
dyno time - $100 (just a guess, never took a bike to a dyno before, but in any case it's cheaper and better than buying your own wide band O2 sensor and tuning it yourself)

TOTAL - ~$1250 with moderate eBaying/junk yarding and doing your own fabrication/welding... with a little more leg work you could probably get it done cheaper

it does start to nickel and dime you to death, trust me on that one, but it's so worth it to be able to say 'yeah I made that'... in any case, if he shops the parts he can keep it to about a grand, far cheaper than a SS would cost... not to mention the PIMP FACTOR and how freaking awesome it would sound

well, i have to tell you, i use to own a CBR f3 and it was far less flickable than the gs, and way to damn long. sure it was a nice bike but, it wasnt all that. every one is riding a damn 600. plus this winter is going to be a long one.

Quote from: TarzanBoy on July 10, 2006, 08:24:24 AM
Turbo on the GS is totally not worth it. Even if you do get a 2x upgrade in horspower/torque, that still puts you right below the spec of a race-ready 600cc bike like an R6 which is lighter, handles better, and has appropriately sized tires and brakes for those speeds.

well, when i get started. (first big step is buying the turbo) i will make a complete walk/guide through on the entire project. any/every one will be welcome to use it.

Quote from: nick_villan on July 10, 2006, 09:15:28 AM
shaZam! id buy a kit if someone made it

Nice ideas.....but consider the physics of what you are proposing to do, the GS5 engine was never designed to be turbocharged and  the stressed parts such as the crank, con-rods and bearings simply wont be able to accomodate an 100% increase in power. You might be ok for the occasional short burst but before long you will be pushing the bike home and at the same time carrying bits of engine casing, piston, con-rod and bottom-end in a bucket!
Ever heard of a Honda CX500? it was a water cooled v-twin, but across the frame as opposed to tandem It was  radical when it came out in the late 70`s. Mid eighties saw a a 650 turbo version (at least here in the UK), a guy I know fitted the turbo and associated parts to the non-turbo 500 engine after a full rebuild. After he had got it running smooth it went like sh** off a shovel.......for about 4hours, then it snapped the crank in half!!. We still laugh at him now. OK I know peple have successfully turbo`d GS5`s but I dont know of anyone who has made 80hp with reliabilty.

there were two turbo gs that were makeing over/near 100hp to the ground here

I want to turbocharge my GS500 as well!

But i will try to convert it first to EFI...



Btw, does anyone know if its possible to use a variable ignition point on the GS?



thx

And were these bikes reliable and used daily without major modifications to the moving parts?? or just bikes intended to showcase an individuals Engineering ability?Were they drag- bikes that run for about 10-15secs before a major rebuild?? Dont just say they exsist,  prove to me that someone has got 100hp from a standard GS5 bottom-end without compromising  its overall reliabilty because I didnt see any crank mods in the `Turbo` shopping lists.  

do a search, here there all there, one guy did it for a class project, the the other was runing 27+ psi and high end fuel for raceing. (road track) the bottom end held for three tracks then would need to be replaced

3 tracks? How many miles is that? Not quite the normal 6000 mile service interval is it? Bottom end reliabilty compromised........I rest my case 

whats your point man?

i mean a bike is a toy not a main mod of transportation. and if it is. then i feel sorry for you.

now, i am not sure what point your tyying to make but forced induction is proven to be reliable/safe and inprove gas milage. if done properly

My point as stated earlier is that you cant get 80+ hp out of a standard GS5 bottom end without compromising its reliabilty. If it was possible all the 80hp+ bikes out there would have cranks the size of the GS5 and we all know they dont. You confirmed my suggestion that reliabilty will be compromised when you stated that someone raced a modified one over the distance of 3 race tracks and then a replacement bottom end was required. Yet then you go on to say that forced induction is safe/reliable if done properly. I am confused and I think you are too. My idea of reliabilty is about 20.000miles, not the combined distance of 3 race tracks.

what is that you think that it cant?

read what i said again, he was pushing over 23 lbs of boost, hell a built engine would laston that long in a race,


what i mean by done right is dont over boost, dont detonate (no pinging) run lean ect...

Quote from: sledge on July 10, 2006, 07:02:42 PM
And were these bikes reliable and used daily without major modifications to the moving parts?? or just bikes intended to showcase an individuals Engineering ability?Were they drag- bikes that run for about 10-15secs before a major rebuild?? Dont just say they exsist,  prove to me that someone has got 100hp from a standard GS5 bottom-end without compromising  its overall reliabilty because I didnt see any crank mods in the `Turbo` shopping lists. 

The one I saw had 76HP and 50 some odd lb-ft of torque. He did it as an engineering project for school.

How many times do I have to say it?? The bottom-end will not cope with vast increases in power and torque without some detrimental effect. It is the most stressed part of the engine as it converts the linear motion of the pistons and rods into rotary motion. It was simply not designed to accomodate the extra forces involved when turbocharged, it was designed for  the 40 or so hp a standard bike makes plus a small margin.  By fitting and running a turbo you will be increasing the loading on the bottom-end and therefore reducing its reliability and lifespan. Read through my comments again and point out to me where I said fitting a turbo CANT be done....you wont because I havent said it. Fitting and setting up a turbo wouldnt be difficult for someone who knows what they are doing. I said fitting a turbo will compromise the long term reliabilty of a standard bottom-end, a fact backed up by yourself when you mentioned the race-tracks. Although you could argue the crank failed for other reasons. The crank should at the very least be Tuftriden or Nitriden (do a search for an explaination) in a attempt to increase its strenghth.

Sledge......

Please leave us be, RangerBrown has accepted the risks of which you speak, and this little project is his....

NOT YOURS

If these risks are unacceptable to you that's fine, but really we have no need to justify our actions. Thank you for pointing out that you find these risks unacceptable, but Ranger Brown does. Hence further conversation on that topic is nothing but inane chatter, ammounting to nothing.

I agree the crank is not the sturdiest, but it has been proven in a NA race bike using oversized pistons (actually that bike broke them, but that's my point. It had no crank failures until there were internal modifications) I think it will be suitable, if not used engines can be had for 300 dollars.

Since however it is not my job to address your concerns I leave only the explanation that, Ranger Brown wants to do it, so he's going to. His bike, his risk, his right.


Ranger Brown, anyways now that I'm done chastising another naysayer I wanted to hit you with some tidbits from my readings.

At 10 psi you're looking at the air temperature being raised by over 100 degress F (that is not a typo) Nearly necessitating am intercooler.

You probably already know that you'll have to fab a box over the whole carb assembly.

Going fuelie might be a good idea, but painful. Mega Squirt would be a good choice methinks.

Carbs could be kept, but life would become painful.

I mapped the points you gave me (4.5k 9k and redline) And with 10 psi (at 9 k) you're looking at around 65 hp.

This is a rather large RPM spectrum we're looking for power over. Might want to narrow it to a 4.5k to 9k or 7k to 11k. Would make stuffing this all inside a compressor map a HELL of a lot easier.

You are going to need a fuel pump. Also we could just ram the injectors inside of the carb bodies, that would be an inelegant way of doing it, but effective.

There's a lot of other stuff I read, but my brain hurts ATM so that's all I can squeeze out right now.

But that temp rise in the intake charge concerns me.

I would definately use an intercooler, a small side mount intercooler from a factor turbo'd car would be perfect... perhaps you should also look into squeezing an alcohol injection system in there... or maybe run the thing on ethanol, you'll get worse gas mileage but it will burn cooler and you'll never have to worry about detonation with its 110+ octane.