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idle at 4000

Started by dchrist, August 12, 2006, 12:01:55 PM

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dchrist

Hi, sorry about this. I posted this at the end of my last topic "please help, the bike don't start" and then I thought, who wants to read about the bike not starting to help me with my idle problem.........

so, is there a way to pull topics that you start? just out of curiosity....

ok, here's my problem.

so now that I have it started I need high idle advice!

with the air mix scews tightened all the way and the idle screw all the way out and the choke off, the bike still idles at 4000 rpms. This is a cold engine although it has been sitting in the sun (forcast today is high 80's). I think the choke works because when I engage it the rpm's spike and then drop when I close it. I don't think there is false or bad air getting in at the boots or airbox because I just finished tightening everything up and I think I did a decent job and I have a good throttle respnse when I close the throttle the rpm's respond well.

The previous owner rejetted and the main jet is 122, and one of the other two (I couldn't tell which without opening it back up and I'd prefer not to do that, but I will if someone says it would really help) is 45. I couldn't read the third one.

thank you very much for your help.

Dave
01 Naked 20/62.5/135 2 washers 2.5 turns K&N drop in V&H full exhaust. SS brake lines. HH pads. Progressive springs.

dchrist

I just went back out to try it again. I got it down to about 1800 then is warmed up a bit and it is now idleing around 3000 warm and with the air mix screws tight. does anyone know where that 1000 rpms went?
01 Naked 20/62.5/135 2 washers 2.5 turns K&N drop in V&H full exhaust. SS brake lines. HH pads. Progressive springs.

Alphamazing

Your air/fuel screws should NOT be turned in all the way. Those are what control your fuel at idle. They should be screwed in all the way until the just touch, then UNSCREWED 2.5 turns

What year model is your bike? If it is an '89-'00 model there are only two jets in there, the pilot jet and the main jet. Size 45 on the pilots? You might need to go down to a 40, as 45 is 3 sizes up from stock (a lot!). Still, even if it is a 45 pilot jet you should be able to get it to idle correctly. Check the air/fuel screws.

If you mean that the air mix screws are the JETS, and that the idle screw is turned all the way out, that could also be a problem. Again, the idle screw needs to be 2.5 turns out or so.
'05 DR-Z400SM (For Sale)
'04 GS500E (Sold)

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dchrist

I'm sorry, I must still be a little confused on the names of things. There are three things down there that I have been playing with. two air/fuel mix screws (one per carb) and these need to be turned with a screwdriver. and there is also one idle screw (or thats what I've heard others calling it) that needs to be turned by hand. the hand truned screw is all the way out (minimum idle) and both the air mix screws are tight even though I know they shouldn't be becasue that is also minimum idle. Its still at 3000 despite all this. I thought that if the air/fuel mix screws were closed the bike wouldn't run but mine does. I turned it out 2.5 turns and there isn't a lot of difference. maybe 2 or 3 hundred rpms higher.

Its an '01 and so has three jets. is this why the pics in my clymer manual are different? if I rejet to 40 will it solve the problem? I don't know why the previous owner chose 45. would just as soon have it idle at 1200 than have biger pilot jets. how about the 122 is that ok? I really know nothing about it. it also has V&H exhaust. I was under the impression that the exhaust and the jets have to match for some reason. is that right?
01 Naked 20/62.5/135 2 washers 2.5 turns K&N drop in V&H full exhaust. SS brake lines. HH pads. Progressive springs.

Mandres

I bet your throttle cable is too tight, holding the butterflies partly open even when you aren't twisting the grip.  There are two adjusters, one at the carb end and one by the grip.  Loosen the lock nut at the adjuster by the grip and turn the adjuster counter-clockwise and see if it makes a difference.

-M

Alphamazing

Quote from: dchrist on August 12, 2006, 03:48:54 PM
I'm sorry, I must still be a little confused on the names of things. There are three things down there that I have been playing with. two air/fuel mix screws (one per carb) and these need to be turned with a screwdriver. and there is also one idle screw (or thats what I've heard others calling it) that needs to be turned by hand. the hand truned screw is all the way out (minimum idle) and both the air mix screws are tight even though I know they shouldn't be becasue that is also minimum idle. Its still at 3000 despite all this. I thought that if the air/fuel mix screws were closed the bike wouldn't run but mine does. I turned it out 2.5 turns and there isn't a lot of difference. maybe 2 or 3 hundred rpms higher.

Its an '01 and so has three jets. is this why the pics in my clymer manual are different? if I rejet to 40 will it solve the problem? I don't know why the previous owner chose 45. would just as soon have it idle at 1200 than have biger pilot jets. how about the 122 is that ok? I really know nothing about it. it also has V&H exhaust. I was under the impression that the exhaust and the jets have to match for some reason. is that right?

Actually, the air fuel screws being CLOSED could result in a high idle (but probably just crap running). Your pilot jets need to be a size 20, the stock is a 17.5. I don't know WHY you have 45s in there. Get the correct pilot jets. The main jet size in the '01 bike is a 127.5 and the mid main is a size 60. The Main jet shouldn't be that small. It's critical that you get the correct jets in there.

For some reason I am under the impression that somone might have stuck pre '01 carbs on your bike. Pictures, maybe?

'05 DR-Z400SM (For Sale)
'04 GS500E (Sold)

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http://wiki.gstwins.com/

dchrist

I'd take some pictures but I don't know how to post them. is it possible that who ever rejetted had no idea what thery were doing? should I just go back to stock? I don't need the performace characteristics of a rejet I'm just trying to learn how to ride, if I can ever get it on the road! I just thought it was necessary for the V&H pipes.

All I know is that the pictures in the clymer manual are different from my carbs. I have no idea what year they are.

Also about my throttle cables, I've been going along thinking if anything they are too loose. there is more than 1mm of free play which is the max spec. Its more like 5mm's. and there is no difference in the idle when I turn the handlebars left or right. I'll turn the adjuster counter clockwise to see if it helps.

I'm taking it back apart tonight to be positive about the numbers on my jets (there are three jets right?) and to measure my butterfly valvue clearance. should they be shut all the way when the throttle is closed? wouldn't this cause a stall?
01 Naked 20/62.5/135 2 washers 2.5 turns K&N drop in V&H full exhaust. SS brake lines. HH pads. Progressive springs.

dchrist

here's another question regarding the idle. Can I do any damamge riding it short distances in stop and go traffic with the idle at 3000-4500? Its not comfortable but I want to ride really badly
01 Naked 20/62.5/135 2 washers 2.5 turns K&N drop in V&H full exhaust. SS brake lines. HH pads. Progressive springs.

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