Ok - so I bought 4 LED turn signals a few weeks ago.  Been having some issues since everything needs to be rewired (next to impossible to find the bullet connectors in the same size so I replaced all of them).  Currently, I have a few weird things happeneing:

1.  When I turn the bike on, the left front comes on solid. 
2.  When I hit the T/S button left or right, they all come on Solid .. but the indicator is never on.
3.  When the bike is in Park, the left front comes on yet again.

I have the Tridon 553 flasther unit installed.  I'm assuming the left front is grounded somewhere but there's no exposed wires that I can find.  I've been looking at the really nice wiring schematic that John Bates posted last year but cannot find how the third scenario would happen (and I'm assuming they're all connected).

Any thoughts?  I can take some pictures and post them tomorrow if they'd help.

PS - I went out to double check what was happening .. bike on centerstand and I have the clutch/starter kill overridden .... bike surged a little when I stared it but fired up.  Walked back to look at the signals and noticed the rear wheel was spinning along haha.

Resistors.


Resistors.


Resistors.


Resistors.


Resistors.


Resistors.


Resistors.


Resistors.

Yeah - about Resistors.  Where exactly do I put those in?  And where can i buy them?  Can't seem to find them anywhere.

And will that fix the front left always being on when the bike is on?

If you have a Fry's you can buy resistors there or the bigger radio shack stores.

No Fry's and the radio shacks around here blow.  I guess I'll look online.

Quote from: MrDan on September 30, 2006, 04:22:24 PM
Ok - so I bought 4 LED turn signals a few weeks ago.  Been having some issues since...

No doubt. Did you look over the FAQ section on LEDs and other notes regarding this?

We would really need to know how the LEDs are supplied. Do they come as a complete unit ready to bolt on or are these bulb replacements?

The Haynes schematic you linked to is nice, but there is too much information there. I made a simplified turn signal schematic over a year ago. It shows just what you need to know regarding the turn signals.

Here it is again...click on it to see the big version


Resistors will do no good until you are certain that you have no wiring errors. Typically when LEDs are installed, the usually symptom is for all four turns signals to come on simultaneously. What most people don't realize about the GS wiring is that even the unused set has current flowing in them. It is what makes the blinker indicator light up. The unwanted set of signals provides the ground for the indicator lamp. LEDs draw so little current compared to the original bulbs that the trick Suz uses to light the indicator causes all four to light up.

Look over my simplied schematic and tell me if it make sense to you. I've included the wire colors (named) to sort out the mess.

Quote from: starwalt on September 30, 2006, 08:16:40 PM
Look over my simplied schematic and tell me if it make sense to you. I've included the wire colors (named) to sort out the mess.

Isn't he wonderful! And did I mention that mrs. starwalt makes THE best chocolate pound cake in the universe? I've heard that mr. starwalt is quite a dancer. Truly a Renaissance couple!! 

How come the Miss Drops-a-lot got some pount cake???

Quote from: The Post Whore on September 30, 2006, 09:23:36 PM
How come the Miss Drops-a-lot  Beautiful got some pount cake???

"Pount" cake?? 

I meant POUND cake...

So...  uh...  why???

I want some!

CCPC may not be to your liking. It takes a refined sense of taste and a mature outlook on the world to appreciate.

You are welcome to fill out an application for consideration.

Did I mention that Pandy is the Director of Applications for new petitioners? 

Quote from: MrDan on September 30, 2006, 04:22:24 PM
Ok - so I bought 4 LED turn signals a few weeks ago.  Been having some issues since everything needs to be rewired (next to impossible to find the bullet connectors in the same size so I replaced all of them).  Currently, I have a few weird things happeneing:

1.  When I turn the bike on, the left front comes on solid. 
2.  When I hit the T/S button left or right, they all come on Solid .. but the indicator is never on.
3.  When the bike is in Park, the left front comes on yet again.

I have the Tridon 553 flasther unit installed.  I'm assuming the left front is grounded somewhere but there's no exposed wires that I can find.  I've been looking at the really nice wiring schematic that John Bates posted last year but cannot find how the third scenario would happen (and I'm assuming they're all connected).

Any thoughts?  I can take some pictures and post them tomorrow if they'd help.

PS - I went out to double check what was happening .. bike on centerstand and I have the clutch/starter kill overridden .... bike surged a little when I stared it but fired up.  Walked back to look at the signals and noticed the rear wheel was spinning along haha.

The brown wire is hot with the ignition key switch in park position.  Did you inadvertently hook this up to the left front turn signal?

Here is the usual solution to the LED problems if the LEDs are not designed for our application.

There are two problems when substituting with LEDs that are not designed as direct replacements for incandescent bulbs.

1. The resistance of the bulbs/LEDs determines the flash rate. Since incandescent bulbs have a different resistance than LEDs, the flash rates will differ.

The el-12 variable load flasher may fix this.

CORRECTION: The el-12 is not a variable load flasher.  It is an electro-mechanical flasher for lamps, not LEDs.

The Trico EP37 is an electronic flasher that should work with either LEDs or bulbs.

2. For the stock GS500 all four turn signals carry current at the same time because the ground for the indicator lamp is through the other set of turn signal bulbs. (If you have the left turn signal switch on, then the ground for the indicator lamp is through the right turn signal bulbs.) The current through the indicator lamp is to low to light the normal turn signal bulbs, but enough to light the LEDs.

The el-12 variable load flasher won't fix this.

The solution for this is to add two diodes to the turn signal circuit.

See customdynamics for the location of the diodes in the circuit.

Quote from: starwalt on September 30, 2006, 08:16:40 PM

Quote from: MrDan on September 30, 2006, 04:22:24 PM
Ok - so I bought 4 LED turn signals a few weeks ago.  Been having some issues since...

No doubt. Did you look over the FAQ section on LEDs and other notes regarding this?

We would really need to know how the LEDs are supplied. Do they come as a complete unit ready to bolt on or are these bulb replacements?

The Haynes schematic you linked to is nice, but there is too much information there. I made a simplified turn signal schematic over a year ago. It shows just what you need to know regarding the turn signals.

Here it is again...click on it to see the big version


Resistors will do no good until you are certain that you have no wiring errors. Typically when LEDs are installed, the usually symptom is for all four turns signals to come on simultaneously. What most people don't realize about the GS wiring is that even the unused set has current flowing in them. It is what makes the blinker indicator light up. The unwanted set of signals provides the ground for the indicator lamp. LEDs draw so little current compared to the original bulbs that the trick Suz uses to light the indicator causes all four to light up.

Look over my simplied schematic and tell me if it make sense to you. I've included the wire colors (named) to sort out the mess.

I actually read over everything about a dozen times.  I linked to the bigger picture since maybe there was an obvious place wires cross or something

Anyway, this is a unit that is commercially available.  It is a twin pack of short stalk LED signals.  Each signal has a board with 3 LEDs inside.  It's actually not that well constructed as the boards sort of float in the housing.

I'll have to check how everything is wired this evening.  It may be as simple as using the Brown wire on the front left (as John mentioned).  I'll take a picture and mark it up this evening.

Good to know you didn't waltz into this totally ignorant and you get two gold stars for giving it a try. 

John had a good wiring idea to check. That's why I simplified the schematic to show only those wires used for the signal circuit. I guess one day I am going to have to get my hands on some of those LEDs and do a thorough analysis/modification write up.

Did the LEDs come with any instructions? If so, it would be great if you could scan them and post them or if the instructions are online I could look there.

No instructions that I could find.  I'll double check this evening.  If I cannot figure this out, I'd be willing to send them on down for you to play with

I actually had your schematic printed and sitting next to me as I was double checking everything this weekend.  I was a little confused since it seems that there are 2 pairs of wires for each light plus a double black wire that the originals were plugged in.  So that meant an extra wire from each pair (does that make sense?)

I have a feeling that I plugged the front left in to the double (ground?) and the brown.  But wouldn't that be 2 grounds and therefore not work at all?  Let alone always on?

I'll see what I can post this evening.

Oh - and I too heard the CCPC was awesome

Hmmm. What year is this bike?

It's an 89.  The wiring looks original - but it might just me old.

Quote from: MrDan on October 02, 2006, 11:10:07 AM
It's an 89.  The wiring looks original - but it might just me old.

My GS project is a 90 as is the donor chassis and the one I plan to buy from a coworker. Just wanted to make sure that my drawing was applicable. Later models may have some minor changes...connectors, wire colors, etc. But they are all very close. The turn signal circuitry is the same operation though.

Current models have more wiring for the throttle position feedback and the electric tach. The signal generator is different also.

Ok .. so here's what I found.  Let me know if it's too small to read




My wires are Red and Black.

John - you were right, I had it connected to the Brown wire.  It looks like maybe the Left Front should connect to Red/Black&White and Black/Black?

Between this and trying to build a DVR, I'm going insane 

Concerning the LEFT FRONT TSignal wiring...

The Red wire from the LED assembly should go to the Black wire of the GS.
[The Black GS wire has +12V when the TSig switch is ON.]

The Black wire from the LED assembly should go to the Black/White wire of the GS.
[The Black/White wire of the GS is nearly always Return (aka Negative, Earth, Ground.]

For the RIGHT FRONT TSig -- Red goes to Light Green.
[The Light Green wire has +12V when the TSig switch is ON.]
Black to Black/White as with the Left Front.

This assumes that the usual convention of Red=+ and Black =- for LED lamps.

This also assumes that you are connecting to the original GS TSig wires. 

An unmodified GS uses the same color for the front and rear TSig wires.