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Major Chain issue

Started by banner, October 09, 2006, 01:31:16 AM

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banner

Hey guys,
I have an interesting chain problem. Whenever i tighten my chain i put it on the sidestand loosen the main bolt. Give it wack with a soft hammer and then adjust the chain. Then i tighten up the main bolt; all this while on the centerstand. What has been happening to me is the right hand side adjuster comes way loose after a ride in the twisties or even a normal ride (more in the twisties). So what i have to end up doing is to tighten up the right hand side way more (1-4 mm) than the left hand side.

This last time the difference was like 4 mm and that worried me; before it had been just one thread difference. Any ideas or suggestions?

Peace

hmmmnz

tighten up your axle more :D
it happens
pod filters, costum r6 quill exhaust(no baffles)40/140 jets, heavy duty springs, sv650 rear shock, gsxr srad tail, bandit 600 4.5 inch rim with 150 tyre, gsx twin disc front end "1995 pocket rocket"  ridden by a kiwi in scotland

Chuck

Do you have a torque wrench?

rangerbrown

why are you useing a hammer to titen the chain?
nee down mother F***ers

Cal Price

According to Mr Suzuki's manual you only need to slacken the sprocket-side nut and then use the adjuster bolts on either side, then retighten to a torque of 56 foot-pounds.

My Honda was and my Yamaha is the same, designed to be slackened and tightened one side only, it's normal.

I have done this myself, not using a torque, just simply tightening it up. It seems OK.
Black Beemer  - F800ST.
In Cricket the testicular guard, or Box, was introduced in 1874. The helmet was introduced in 1974. Is there a message??

Chuck

Quote from: Cal Price on October 09, 2006, 08:23:56 AM
use the adjuster bolts on either side

On this side of the pond, that means both sides. :)

Oh, and rangerbrown is right.  What the hell are you doing with a hammer.  Put that away.   :icon_rolleyes:

MarkusN

As I understand it he whacks the axle on the head to get the whole shebang loose after loosening the nut.

There are a lot of individual parts involved that are clamped together with the axle. Rattling them a bit makes sure everything moves freely.

I usually have to do that as well before I can move the axle around manually. A little rap is all it takes. (I usually don't even bother to get a hammer, I just rap it with the wrench.)

Chuck

Turning the adjusters will do fine, even if all the spacers and jazz are not loose.  The adjusters apply enough force to get the axle where you want it.  Not hammering it also minimizes the chance of the axle coming to the rear of where the adjusters want it, since the adjusters can only pull (they won't push the axle forward).  But everyone has their technique.  Anyway, a lot of discussion in the absence of the original poster.  My recommendation stands, to trade in the hammer for a torque wrench.  Not having a torque wrench is like riding at night with no headlight.  You might make it some distance before something bad happens, but something bad will inevitably happen.

banner

hmm..yeah i just use the soft hammer/rubber mallet to loosen the whole deal. I'm not using a torque wrench so that might why its coming loose on one side...perhaps its not tight enough. I"ll give it  a go with the torque wrench and see if that helps

Thanks for the suggestions guys:)
Peace

Cal Price

A torque wrench is a good piece of kit to have, major understatement. A decent wrench does not cost too much if you look around, I got a suitable one for about a quarter of the price i had to pay for a delicate torque-driver that I needed for portable radio chasis/case work.
Black Beemer  - F800ST.
In Cricket the testicular guard, or Box, was introduced in 1874. The helmet was introduced in 1974. Is there a message??

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