SV650 problem, but I'm posting here because you guys kick butt when it comes to technical troubleshooting suzuki bikes!

My SV650 won't start.  I tipped it over on it's left side while doing a u-turn on a dirt road.  Other than a slightly bent shift lever, some mud on the left handlebar and some gasoline spilling out, it seemed to be fine.  Starting the bike after this became a nightmere:

The bike will not start.  Neutral, clutch in, kickstand up, starter-RUN and nothing.  It will not turn over, it will not even "click" when I press the starter button.  I inspected the fuses and all are OK, and checked the clutch-safety.  I was able to bump-start it by pushing it down a hill and dropping the clutch, so I know it will start.

What can I do here?  Is there a way to hot-wire it?  How do I check/test the electrical system?

If a bike has been dropeed, or even let sit for a while i pull plugs and then turn over by hand. Hydrolock is terrible on rods and pistons. Then check for a fuse that's out.
Cool.
Srinath.

since you can clutch start it and it runs, i would suspect there's something wrong with the starter. i would inspect it and make sure that it has power and the wires and connectors aren't damaged.

Quote from: fuzzymemory
The bike will not start.  Neutral, clutch in, kickstand up, starter-RUN and nothing.  It will not turn over, it will not even "click" when I press the starter button.  I inspected the fuses and all are OK, and checked the clutch-safety.  I was able to bump-start it by pushing it down a hill and dropping the clutch, so I know it will start.

Clutch-safety?  As in your clutch perch kill switch?  Mine went bad after a spill, but it really didn't troubleshoot well.  Both wires were continuous, so was the switch mechanism itself... but when you put those two together, nothing wanted to work.  Check both your kickstand kill switch, and the clutch kill switch again.  As for the clutch switch, you could just open your headlight shell and connect the two leads going to the switch.  Might be able to do the same for the kickstand switch under the bike.  These two things would give you a condition where the starter switch does absolutely nothing.

Does the headlight and oil, neutral indicator light when you turn key to on?

All fuses check out OK.  SV has 2 fuse boxes and I checked every fuse in both boxes.  I'll pull the plugs and check.

I also think it has something to do with the starter or the wiring to the starter.  I tried to "cheat" the clutch safety-switch by sticking a paperclip into both connectors while the plug was pulled out.  I'll try the headlight trick.  Is there a way to test individual switches so I know which one is broken (if one is broken but both override the starter)?
 Thanks so much!

Hmm, let's see if i get this right, as I don't have an SV650 wiring diagram (do you have a manual?)  Actually, the kill switches are sort of in series.  I'm not sure if the kickstand switch wires make it to the headlight, but you will find a point where the wires from the switch have bullet connectors.  This is where you bypass the switch.  Clutch switch has the bullet connectors in the headlight shell.  One at a time should do.  If the problem is further along in the wiring (closer to the starter than the bullet connectors) try hooking a multimeter to the bullets and hit the starter, look for a change possibly.  Although it's unkown to me... I only know how to troubleshoot when I see all the circuit components... dunno what indications starters give in motorcycle terms I must admit I'm new at the repair business.

Oh, clutch switch isn't too necessary for operation, but you'd really want to get the kickstand switch fixed before you crash yourself making a left turn with the stand down!

Oh, and get familiar with the wiring, just in case you want to make any aftermarket mods  Once it stops raining, I think I'll be making my turn signals into running lights as well *grin*

Quote from: TurkinaIf the problem is further along in the wiring (closer to the starter than the bullet connectors) try hooking a multimeter to the bullets and hit the starter, look for a change possibly.

Thanks - I'm gonna run to AutoZone and get a MultiMeter.  What setting should it be when checking the wiring?

Borrow a multimeter!  You don't need anything too elaborate, one of the little sets will do.
Anyways, you want the resistance or continuity setting... only need to know if there's a break in the connection somewhere.

If you dropped it on the left side and after that it won't turn over the starter moter.  I have to agree with privious posts, it's the clutch safty switch.

Paul

Quote from: PkaasoIf you dropped it on the left side and after that it won't turn over the starter moter.  I have to agree with privious posts, it's the clutch safty switch. Paul

The clutch safety switch was my 1st guess.  But I stuck a paperclip into the safety switch (to override it) and the bike still wouldn't work  

Quote from: TurkinaBorrow a multimeter!  You don't need anything too elaborate, one of the little sets will do.
Anyways, you want the resistance or continuity setting... only need to know if there's a break in the connection somewhere.

Cool - how should I test the connections?   Do I leave the bike with the keys set to ON or should it be off?  Do I even want to leave the battery in or should I remove it?  Thanks, Fuzzy

Continuity through the potentially faulty switch?  Since you would disconnect the wires from the main harness for testing, bike should be off... actually keep the bike off for any testing that doesn't involve tracing a path through the ignition.  For now, just try and eliminate bad wiring or switches.

bike started when I shorted the starter relay!  Still won't start under normal circumstances

clutch in, ignition ON, Kill-RUN, neutral engaged, and the bike starts when I cross the 2 starter relay pins with a screwdriver.  This means that the safety switches are not at fault... but what do I test now?

No, that just means you are bypassing all the safeties.  

The relay itself could be bad, but I don't see how it would have.

Is the neutral light on the panel lit when in neutral?  If its out, the switch or wiring to it could be damaged and that would prevent it from starting.

Check all the connectors inside the headlight under the tank (if you haven't already).

Quote from: JamesGNo, that just means you are bypassing all the safeties.  
The relay itself could be bad, but I don't see how it would have.
Is the neutral light on the panel lit when in neutral?  If its out, the switch or wiring to it could be damaged and that would prevent it from starting.
Check all the connectors inside the headlight under the tank (if you haven't already).

The neutral light comes in when the bike is in neutral, and turns off when I shift out of Neutral.  What do I use to check the connectors? THanx.

I think JamesG just meant to make sure all of the connectors are firmly fastened together.

Meanwhile, do you have a repair/maintenance manual for your SV650?  If so, it should contain wiring diagrams for the bike.  It takes a little practice to read them, but they're very handy when you're trying to nail down an electrical problem.

My Haynes manual for the GS500E has color-coded diagrams, with the actual colors of the wires.  Very nice!  I have been able to follow a given wire from where I first see it, through various connectors and wire color changes, to another spot where I can touch a lead from my multimeter.

With such a wiring diagram you could, say, follow the wires from the sidestand safety switch until you find a contact point on either side of the switch.  Hook your ohmmeter to these contact points with the sidestand up (you should get a resistance reading of Infinity).  Then put the sidestand down (you should get a reading in the single digits, if not zero).

Do the same kind of test to check each of the safety switches that would prevent power from getting to the relay.

IMPORTANT: When using an ohmmeter, you don't want to introduce power from the bike battery (which could fry your meter).  Make sure the ignition switch is OFF, and stay away from the + terminal of the battery.

Kerry & all - thanks so much for your help.  I ohmed out the clutch safety switch to determine that was the problem.  I fixed this by shorting the safety, using a paperclip to connect the wires, then covering that with electrical tape.