based on other posts

if when on the highway, and i back off on the throttle the acceleration gets better that may mean that i am lean, so screw it in or out

currently now at exactly 3 turns,

Well doubt that air screw has anything to do when you are up high in the rpm range...You may need to block off 1 of the slide holes. Anyway what set up are you using.
Cool.
Srinath.

currently

stock exhaust
foam filter
125/40 with 2 washers

currently at 3 turns out on the screw

and oh yeah, I can smell gas from the exhaust once in a while

bike jsut doesn't seem .....zen,  

carbs are synched, both sides of the carbs are set up identical, 3 turns

but when up about 5 or 6000 RPM it kinda stumbles when accelerating hard

i've tried it at 2.5 turns, 3.5 but found jsut leaving it at 3 since everyone else has it there

wondering if teh vacum may be messed up, fuel starvation

With stock pipe...and UNI...maybe take off 1 washer...see the other thing I believe has been sorta lost in the shuffle is that I used these thin washers...I have no idea what they were, just that they were thin (under 1/2 mm thick) and they fit...and recently there has been an explosion of numbers...some say #2 some say #4...and I used the thinner one in the GS and few weeks ago John sent me wahsers that are more thicker and seem like the ones I used in my eliminator (keihein carbs)...so I am just thinking some people may be putting in 1-2 of the thicker ones...making the needle too rich. So I'd start by removing 1, and see how it is, and maybe see if thinner ones are available and use that instead of the thick one.
Cool.
Srinath.

i remove a washer tonight, thanks!

Quote from: klimberand oh yeah, I can smell gas from the exhaust once in a while

bike jsut doesn't seem .....zen,  

carbs are synched, both sides of the carbs are set up identical, 3 turns

but when up about 5 or 6000 RPM it kinda stumbles when accelerating hard

i've tried it at 2.5 turns, 3.5 but found jsut leaving it at 3 since everyone else has it there

wondering if teh vacum may be messed up, fuel starvation

OK Here is a tip...problems when demanding power (acceleration etc) are rich, problems when not demanding steady throttle etc...are lean. You, I believe at 5-6K...what is the throttle setting for it BTW...are rich. So if that's right about 1/2 throttle I'd take one washer off and see.
Cool.
Srinath.

would this explain why the bike runs great around town, but kind sloppy on the over 60 MPH!


i'll get back to only one washer tongiht and report back -kris

maybe related, maybe not....

now when starting from COLD


when i slide the choke, it used to have an effect as soon as i touched it, now from point A-Z it sortof kills the bike hen about 1/2 way kicks in andoes it's thing

after being on for a minute, and i start backing it off, it will start to slow the rPMS  if i don't shut it off quickly

I am a bit confused...But I'd say sort out the jetting top down...Mains first, needle next, float level next, air screw next...so dont worry much about starting just yet. That will come soon...you can adjust just that area wihtout touching the rest so you should do it last.
Cool.
Srinath.

so how does one adjust the float level?

doesn't float level apply to the washers?

You take off the bowl and bend the metal tab that pushes the float needle into the seat. It will make it close earlier or later depending on how you bend it. That has no effect on the needle jet. Float needle or needle valve is different from needle or needle jet. Needle jet can be also raised ( or lowered in case of aftermarket) with washers or with adjustable "e" clips. OK fine if you must please check the float level. Use the U tube method. Make sure the floats are right at the top of the float bowl and no more. Dont adjust them. Then take out a washer from the needle. Taking out the washer wont touch the float level. I was asking you to check it just in case one is wildly off. That would be bad.
Cool.
Srinath.

LOL You are going to tie that guys brain into a knot.

it's knoted!

last night i removed a washer, took it for a ride and hated life......more stuttering from the engine than ever before.....promptly went home and put it back to two washers, much much better, still has the staggering at high speeds when i gun it


thinking maybe turn the screws from 3 to 3.5?

Mix screw controls the idle...setting it to 3.5 will make it richer at idle but wont do a thing up top...well here is the thing...it sounds like you have a rip in the diaphragm...see if they are good and intact...if they are then try another washer (unless they are very thin 2 should be plenty...you may need to go up a mina jet but 125 is plenty again for you setup...also see if you have a missing hose or a rip in one of the hoses from the airbox). You also may have a slide that comes up too fast...but that will be a problem if you open the throttle too fast, but will behave if you open slowly. 1 change at a time. And dont lose your patience. And check your float level...they should be equal and be right at the top of the bowl.
Cool.
Srinath.

daiphrams are good, checked them over last night

i'll do some tracing of the hoses and lines tonight

and float levels, ??  not sure , kinda nervous checkin that, pulle dthat dammed thing apart enough now, but will have to if hoses look good!


thanks for your help!

when i re-jetted, i didn't touch teh float level, was i supposed to bend or adjust something

i am assuming there is a spring clip or someting  i shoudl bend up/down (in that thing in the poor man's pictorial is it on the thing that he sas was supposed to be white?)

Float level can be chekced from outside completely...using the u tube method.
Clear plastic tube fitting tight on the drain...Then putit in prime and opne the drain. Do 1 carb at a time and mark off at the carb where it is. It should be right to the top of bowl and no more.
Cool.
srinath.