Got my Suburban Machinery bars today- damn they go on easy when compared to the drag bar!  

Here's my question:  I got Progrip 724 grips.  They are sweet-but on the throttle side what did you guys do about the lip that is near the master cylinder?  The suzuki grips have a pocket for the lip- these don't.  The one on the outside of the throttle is so small it really doesn't make a difference.

Also- my clutch seems a bit stiff so I got stuff to lube it.  How do I disconnect the cable?  What adjustments can I do to make it a bit easier/less tight?

Thanks!!!

I just put my new grip up to the lip and left it there. I have the wire for my heating elements coming out through that gap, so it worked out for me.

I shaved that down some so it fit into the tube more.

hmmmm- sounds like a job for my dremel- I will sand it down just a tad so it doesn't roll then.

I must say I like them so far- course I haven't ridden!  :mrgreen:

Thanks I appreciate the help!

I had the same problem with my progrips.  I've read in an older thread that you can either buy OEM grips or get Katana grips which are supposed to be a little more comfy.

Jake

I used a sanding drum on my Dremmel.  Took about 2 minutes.

Cool snapper you'll have to take some pics for all us here on the board  
what model did you get the type 1 or the type 2? and are you having the same problem wih the master cyl banjo bolt hitting the tach housing?

if ya keep it up you'll out mod Pantablo  :mrgreen:

Quote from: Cireif ya keep it up you'll out mod Pantablo  :mrgreen:

bwahahhahaaa...
1989 GSXR 750 REAR WHEEL!  Item number: 2431012283

I think I am a bit behind Pantablo on mods yet.  Maybe I will quietly try to catch up (hahahaha).

The bar hits the tach housing some and yes the master cylinder bolt hits it too, but I have to say it was easier than the drag bar.  That I had to go back and  forth a bunch of times.  The drag bar I have is a bit shorter than some so I didn't have a lot of length to work with.

I am working on getting my barend mirrors and the bar-end weights back on which should be interesting.   My mirrors are not like Pantablos, so I spent some quality time at home depot picking out long screws and such to go through the weights and the mirrors then into the device that hold everything in place!  Should prove to be interesting!
:mrgreen:

I cut my throttle flange with a box-cutter.  It didn't take longer than 2 minutes, and I didin't have to take my dremel out of the box.  Suzuki factory grips are needed only if you don't have access to pro-level tools like box-cutters and dremels     Cost of box-cutter, $0.50.  Comfort of pro-grip grips over stock suzuki grips, priceless.

LOL- thats great.  I have a box cutter too..several in fact.  Knowing exactly where they are: Priceless!

:mrgreen:

Quote from: snapperAlso- my clutch seems a bit stiff so I got stuff to lube it.  How do I disconnect the cable?  What adjustments can I do to make it a bit easier/less tight?

Snapper, just for you   I went out to the parking lot and took some pictures.  The first three pertain to both disconnecting the cable and adjusting it:

1) Pop the cover off the clutch lever pivot bolt head.  Push it down the cable and out of the way.


2) Loosen the large lock ring/nut.  (It should be tight up against the clutch perch.)  If you're only adjusting the clutch lever freeplay, just spin it once or twice.  If you're disconnecting the cable, spin it all the way out to the knurled end of the adjuster bolt.


3) Now spin the adjuster bolt.  If you're adjusting the clutch lever freeplay, you may turn it either in or out.  (In = more freeplay, Out = less freeplay)  If you're disconnecting the cable, turn it all the way in.


4) Make sure that the slits in the adjuster bolt and the lock nut are in-line with the slit in the clutch perch.  Insert something like a thin screwdriver behind the clutch cable and pull forward to get as much slack as you can.  You'll need quite a bit - you have to clear the corner built into the clutch lever and pull the cable end down and out.  If you need more slack than you can get, use the adjuster on the other end of the cable.


(Sorry about the army knife - the screwdriver blade was all I had.  And my windshield got in the way of another shot or two that may have helped.)

5) If you disconnect the cable (to lube it or replace it), reassemble in the reverse order.  Whether reassembling or only adjusting, make sure to tighten the lock nut against the clutch lever perch before you put the cover back over everything.

Hope this helps!

EDIT: Changed links from sisna.com to bbburma.net

Quote from: Kerry
Snapper, just for you   I went out to the parking lot and took some pictures.  The first three pertain to both disconnecting the cable and adjusting it:

Kerry Sucker for the women with a problem...I bet you stop and change tires for the good looking ones too!

OK if I just ignore that last comment, JasonB?  

It just occurred to me that I documented an inferior approach to the cable disconnection problem.  (I knew I should have created a web page of my own.  Then I could change it at will....)

I remember disconnecting the clutch cable without using the adjustment on the lower end of the cable, and without using a screwdriver like I showed in the picture.  (Duh!)

Try the following instead:

1) Loosen the lock nut just a turn or two.
2) Turn the adjuster bolt ALL THE WAY OUT, until it is no longer threaded into the clutch lever perch.
3) Now pull the adjuster bolt forward, bringing the cable with it.  Once the end of the bolt clears the perch, the cable almost falls out of the lever.

If the cable is new, and/or adjusted tightly at the lower end, you MAY not have enough slack to turn the adjuster all the way out.  In that case, go ahead and loosen the lower adjuster.

Sorry for the double-take....  

Thanks Kerry!

I had been taking approach #2 and I don't have enough clearance so I will have to loosen it from the other end as well.   I could almost remove the cable but not quite close enough.  

Thats what I will do!  Thanks!!!!