Makes sense. I was told about the water not evaporating from the oil if I don't have the engine up to the correct temperature. I did some searching on the forum for more detailed info regarding oil and tire brands.  I think I will try whatever I can get. Do I have to change the oil filter every time I do an oil change? I did the soapy water test on the rear tire. Nothing. They are both over 3 yrs old, haven't had too many miles put on it, the motorcycle has 8330 miles on it, so I think it is time for a change. Thanks for all the help.

You don't have to change the filter every time you change the oil, but many people do. In your case every other oil change would probally be fine. You'll put so few miles on it in 3 months that I doubt the filter would be clogged with particles, but the oil would have fuel and water which shouldn't plug up the filter.

Like I said before, how often you change your oil (for the riding you do) is more important than the type. Synthetics wouldn't be too much better in your case. The main advantage of synthetics is that they handle teperture extremes better, and high operating temps. They will still get dirty and full of gas and oil and in your case won't help. Many people will say what types of oil work well for them, but there aren't many posts about an oil not working. If you get an "energy concerving" oil it can make your clutch slip so stay away from those, change it frequently and you'll be good.

Tires  I got some Kenda crusers but they aren't anything special. Others have much more experience buying tires. Just keep in mind that many bike shops will charge twice as much to mount a tire that you bought somewhere else than one that you bought from them, so even if the tire costs a little more at a shop it may be cheaper to get it from a shop. Call around to find out if this is true in your area. Factor in mounting, shipping, tax, etc. when you find the best deal.

Also it's always MUCH cheaper if you remove your wheels and bring them into the shop rather than just bringing the whole bike in. Also it won't take them as long. Once I rode my bike to the shop and took my wheels off in the parking lot  It was better than spending another $40 or so.

Yeah, but I don't have any tools to take them off. If they are as much of a pain as doing bicycle tires, I will bypass this step and just get them done at a shop. I read the posts on the tires, but I still don't know what type of tires would be best for me for the 2001 model. I need something for all weather and all surface and ones that last a long time. The demons sound good but then I am not sure what I have on the bike now. Will have to check. How much does it cost to change the oil at a shop? It looks fairly easy to do on the bike. I have done it on a car. I think I will get help the first time I do the oil. I got some STP 10W40 and my mechanic friend got mad at me for trying to put crappy oil in the bike. She likes mobil one synthetic high end stuff. I just hope my riding style changes but I don't forsee it in the next 6 months or so. Just putzing around town and going out on some weekend trips. I cannot go on the highway yet. Been riding for only a month.  What is the best running speed for the bike and for how long? These things were meant to withstand all kinds of usage. I follow the speed limit to a T so what do you suggest?

Quote from: Kaizer on October 18, 2006, 12:38:51 AM
.......................... It looks fairly easy to do on the bike. I have done it on a car. I think I will get help the first time I do the oil. ...................................

How to change oil

Quote from: ducati_nolan on October 17, 2006, 09:38:32 PM
To figure out where your tire is leaking, inflate it a little bit above the recomended ammout, say 45-50 or so (let out the excess air before riding though) and then take a spray bottle with soapy water and spray it on your tire. Little bubles will form wherever it's leaking.

Good suggestion!    I wouldn't go above 44psi, but that's just me.  Check the stem as well (or, check it now).

If all you're doing is commuting, I would NOT recommend the sport demons. You can only look to get 3-5K miles out of them. Do a search for the word "tires" with the author as "GSJack" he's the acknowledged tire expert around here. His posts will have recommendations based on both longevity and stickiness. You're gonna need more longevity than stickiness.

It sounds like you need to invest in a good shop manual for your GS.  I had all kinds of unknowns in my head about my K2 before I picked up the Clymer manual for GS500 1989 - 2002.  It answered a lot for me.  And coupled with the Oil Change instructions in the How To's it makes that easy too.  It seems like such a waste of money to have someone else change your oil for you.  Just be careful when you are adjusting the bolts.  A torque wrench could be the best money you ever spend.

Once you have the manual you can use the information on this site to "supplement" the information that you have.  No matter what the manufacturer says there is always room for opinion.

QuoteYeah, but I don't have any tools to take them off. If they are as much of a pain as doing bicycle tires, I will bypass this step and just get them done at a shop

For less than what the shop charges to remove your wheels you can buy the tools. In a pinch a decent crecent will work, but to do most of the work on the bike properly, all you need is: Set of screwdrivers, Set of metric combo wrenches, set of metric allen wrenches, and pliers. Other stuff is handy but these should get you threough 90+% of it. A torque wrench is nice too but you can get by without it.

QuoteHow much does it cost to change the oil at a shop? It looks fairly easy to do on the bike. I have done it on a car

Same answer as above, it's easy. Follow the link that John posted and/or buy a manual

QuoteI got some STP 10W40 and my mechanic friend got mad at me for trying to put crappy oil in the bike. She likes mobil one synthetic high end stuff.

Bahh, for the riding you do just change it often, unless the STP has teflon or fricton modifiers (read the bottle) you're fine. Once you start riding harder, faster, and longer distance then you can think about going to a synthetic. Right now just go cheap and often.

QuoteThe demons sound good but then I am not sure what I have on the bike now. Will have to check.

sport demons don't last long, get something cheaper and longer lasting. It'll be a while before you start pushing the limits of your tires. So long as they are new and have no age cracks it'll do you fine. Once you start riding faster you can look into the sportier tires.

QuoteWhat is the best running speed for the bike and for how long? These things were meant to withstand all kinds of usage. I follow the speed limit to a T so what do you suggest?

about 20-80mph is fine. Once a week or so ride it for 20-30 minutes or so to allow the accumulated gas and water to evaporate. Don't ride on the highway untill you are ready

Yeah, read the site on how to change the oil on the gs. Very good! I did check the entire tire and valve. It is raining today so will have to try the vaseline thing tomorrow.

Good suggestions. I have the clymer manual, actually read the entire thing, but still have to refer to some things once in a while. I wouldn't trust myself to align and put the tires on myself. The oil I will do myself with the help of the website and manual. I did read Jack's notes on tires, HOWEVER, he doesn't mention much about the 2001 model that is why I asked. I guess I can go cheaper on both since I don't go out riding much more than 1-2 hrs a week on long rides. I do very short commutes around town and that is it. I don't see myself doing a cross country trip any time soon. Just remember, my boss and mom JUST found out I have a motorcycle and I am still trying to deal with them, let alone get my ass killed on the highway!

I have a Bridgestone Exedra G550 rear on my 2002.  It's supposed to be rated for GS500E's from 1994-2001 but it works on my bike just fine.  I haven't had any problems but I have only had it for one season.  It was reasonably priced and recommended by the guy who did the safety on my bike. 

As for tools, what specific metric measurements should I use for the wrenches? I have most of the tools myself, except a torque wrench. Where can I get these fairly cheaply? I have an automotive set, but it isn't metric. Also, on the website I read that the dimensions for my tires are 110/70. Is that correct? I will get harder more durable tires than the softer, sportier ones as well. Also, should I change the cheap oil every 3000 miles or sooner? I couldn't find anything on the bottle of STP oil regarding its contents. The oil was from the dollar store. I don't think I want to go that cheap. Also, how often does the K&N air filter need to be changed? It isn't black or discolored. What causes dry rot and can you prevent it? What exactly does it look like? I've only put 300 miles on the bike in a month, but hope to do more riding especially on the weekends.