dont have my notes here but I did search on the about.com motorcycle forum where I posted the install question and got loads of answers, of which my notes are made up of.

here's the thread:
http://forums.about.com/n/pfx/forum.aspx?tsn=1&nav=messages&webtag=ab-motorcycles&tid=21737

here are the pertinent notes:

QuoteI did the dual stars last spring.  Where are you getting your power lead from?  The reason I ask is that I used a new wire from the battery.  I was concerned that tapping into an existing power lead might overload that circuit.

I used a relay tied into the rear running lights (because of convenient location) and a heatroller mounted through my dash.

For the power, I used an extra fused pigtail (from a battery tender) from the batt, so my ground went back to the neg terminal

QuoteI used a pigtail, which is the connection that comes with a battery tender, and cut the wires.  Maybe a $10 part available in a bike shop or online.  It has a fuse on the hot side, which is a handy feature.  I connected this to the battery, one to pos, one to neg. 

I used a heat-troller to control the level of heat my heated grips would generate.  I don't know if you are doing that, but I suppose you might have a switch in place of the heatroller. 

So, I needed to connect the leads from the battery (pigtail) to the heatroller wires (or the switch if no heatroller). 

But, there is one exception.  I wanted to make it switched, so the circuit doesn't drain the battery if you forget to turn off the grips.  So, I bought a relay from an auto parts place.  I didn't know crep about it, but with all these kids rigging up stereos, they knew what I needed.  Its just a little device, maybe the size of a small matchbox.  It basically is an automatic switch.

The hot lead from the battery takes a detour, into then out of the relay, then continues to the heatroller.

The relay then only lets juice flow through, when the bike is on.  It basically interrupts the flow from the pos wire. 

In order for the relay to work, it needs something to turn it on and off.  Any power wire, will suffice.  I used the 2 wires going to my taillight - the running light.  I used that one because it was right near my relay, and easy to tap into.  So, when I turn on the key, juice goes from the running light, to the relay, then back to the ground side of the running light.  The presence of this juice, opens the switch, letting the main juice flow from the battery, to the heatroller (or switch).  The heatroller, sends the juice to the grips, then back to the ground (neg battery terminal).

OK, this got long, and I don't know if I've totally confused you now or helped!!!

Anyway, go to www.warmnsafe.com  This is heat-trollers official site.  You can find a wiring diagram there that should also help.  Try the one for dual-stars grips - they may be similar to the aerostichs.

QuoteI found a site that explains relays. Its quite good.

http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm

Go to the parts store and buy a Bosch relay(they should know) Connect pole 30 to the battery through a fuse. Connect your load(I suppose its the resistor in your case) to pole 87. This connection between pole 30 and 87 won't be made until pole 85 is energized with 86 as the ground. Just ground 86 to the frame or battery negative and connect 85 to a keyed power source (like the suggested taillight circuit). Now what you have is a small current(taillight) switching on a high current circuit.

QuoteThis is re: the inline fuse.  I'm not sure how they sell those, and whether you need to attach wires or if the come wired already, etc.

The reason I used the pigtail was because (well, I had one laying around and)

It has two round connectors that go on your battery terminals.  It also has an inline fuse which is a blade type which should match your bike - like Scott was saying.

The other end of the pigtail has a connector for a battery tender.  I cut this off and separated the wires. 

It just made the whole inline fuse/battery connection part of the job easier.

These should be available in any bike shop.

then I said:

QuoteI finally got around to installing the heated grip elements yesterday. I was unable to finish due to the cold though (working in the carport while its raining isnt conducive to heat...I finally had to give in to the hypothermia gods and call it a day. Its all in but I didnt heed your warning (or Scott's) and I kept the fuse in...blew it out when the pigtail wires accidentally touched the bike. Didnt have an extra so had to forgo testing the setup. One or two last things to complete or change and it'll be ready for testing.

how did you wire it exactly?

with the dual stars i did this....
red wires to ground, blue wires to low side switch, white wires to high side switch. yellow wire (hot) from the running lights in front. there is a fuse between the running light tap and the switch power input. it did not blow the fuse in the fuse box for the motorcycle headlights. only the fuse i put inline with the grips.
it's like the heater pads are shorting out or something. cause i've got like a dead short.

I suspect the problem, and I'm guessing here, is with your power line. What is the wiring supposed to be? Arent they suppoed to be wired directly to the battery?

Quote from: pantablo on November 12, 2006, 04:49:17 PM
I suspect the problem, and I'm guessing here, is with your power line. What is the wiring supposed to be? Arent they suppoed to be wired directly to the battery?

no, they suggest using a regulated power source, such as the headlight/taillight, or anything that comes on when the key is on.

check this out:
http://www.fjr1300.info/mods/tom3.html

QuoteOptions for Wiring the Dual-Star Elements
The Dual-Star elements are not without their peculiarities. Each one has three wires, which means that you either connect two of them together or else leave one of them unused. For each resistive element, there is a red wire at one end, a blue wire at the other end, and a white wire that is connected somewhere near the middle of the resistive wire.
You can use just the red and blue wire to wire the entire resistive wire as a single element. You can join the red and blue wire together and use the white wire, in which case you will effectively have two short resistive elements wired in parallel. You can also use only one or the other of the blue or the red wire, leaving half of the resistive wire unused, which is what Marc did initially.

With each of these possible methods, it is also possible to wire the right and left side in series, which will reduce the Voltage across each by about half (the resistance of the right and left sides are not equal). If the right and left sides are wired in series, this will also reduce the current by half and thus the power will be about 1/4th of what it is when the full battery voltage is supplied to each side.

Following are the approximate initial Wattages per grip for each of the three different wiring options, assuming that the right and left are wired in parallel:


  Left Right
Parallel (connecting red & blue wire together) 55 Watts 35 Watts 
Blue only (omit red wire) 31 Watts 17 Watts 
Red only (omit the blue wire) 23 Watts 17 Watts 
Series (omit the white wire) 13 Watts 9 Watts 

What we have here is very similar to what Goldilocks encountered when she tasted the three bears' porridge. I am presently using the parallel method but I am considering changing it because I am concerned that it will overheat and burn up. [Marc says: I have both blue and red wired together, and it gets way too hot when you turn it all the way ON -- I' m going to go back to using just the red wire like Tom suggests]
Wiring the two sides in series will reduce the Wattage to even less than the series method, which is almost certainly inadequate. Omitting the blue wire is probably just right (was Baby Bear's porridge the one that was just right?).

There is a potential problem with the red-only method, however, that should be mentioned. On the clutch side, the resistive wire is routed so that the side to which the red wire is connected is on one side of the pad and the side to which the blue wire is connected is on the other side of the pad. (On the throttle side, the two elements run side-by-side over the entire pad.) When the pad is attached to the bar on the clutch side, one of the two effective elements will heat the top of the bar, and the other will heat the bottom of the bar.

This is not likely to be a problem in practice, though, because the aluminum handlebar will conduct the heat very quickly across the gap. This probably explains why Marc never mentioned noticing this effect.

All things considered, the method that I recommend is using the red (and white) wires only, omitting the blue wire. To wire the right and left sides in parallel, simply connect the two red wires, one from each side, to one of the two wire terminals of an SAE connector, and then connect the two white wires, one from each side, to the other wire terminal of an SAE connector.

I recommend that you try this first and switch to the parallel method only if you find that uneven heating on the clutch side bothers you.


Using a Relay with the Heat-Troller
The Heat-Troller is an exceptionally well-designed and well-made device. It is an extremely efficient circuit, with an insignificant amount of internal heat dissipation. It is constructed to simplify the installation, with an SAE terminal for the connection to the load and two battery terminals for direct connection to the battery. However, this means that if you forget and leave it turned on, it will probably run your battery down. It is desirable to connect the Heat-Troller to the battery via a relay so that the battery connection is opened when the main switch is off. Radio Shack part number 275-226 is a suitable relay.
Typically, one side of the coil of the auxiliary relay would be connected to any location in the bike's wiring harness that is connected to the battery whenever the main switch is on. For example, a wire to the running lights, or the +12V wire to the headlight relay (that is controlled by the headlight switch) can be used. The FJR1300 offers an even better option, however, which is to connect the coil of the auxiliary relay so that, like the headlights, the Heat-Troller will be connected to the battery only after the engine has been started.

Quote from: pantablo on November 12, 2006, 11:40:30 PM
check this out:
http://www.fjr1300.info/mods/tom3.html

QuoteOptions for Wiring the Dual-Star Elements
The Dual-Star elements are not without their peculiarities. Each one has three wires, which means that you either connect two of them together or else leave one of them unused. For each resistive element, there is a red wire at one end, a blue wire at the other end, and a white wire that is connected somewhere near the middle of the resistive wire.
You can use just the red and blue wire to wire the entire resistive wire as a single element. You can join the red and blue wire together and use the white wire, in which case you will effectively have two short resistive elements wired in parallel. You can also use only one or the other of the blue or the red wire, leaving half of the resistive wire unused, which is what Marc did initially.

With each of these possible methods, it is also possible to wire the right and left side in series, which will reduce the Voltage across each by about half (the resistance of the right and left sides are not equal). If the right and left sides are wired in series, this will also reduce the current by half and thus the power will be about 1/4th of what it is when the full battery voltage is supplied to each side.

Following are the approximate initial Wattages per grip for each of the three different wiring options, assuming that the right and left are wired in parallel:


  Left Right
Parallel (connecting red & blue wire together) 55 Watts 35 Watts 
Blue only (omit red wire) 31 Watts 17 Watts 
Red only (omit the blue wire) 23 Watts 17 Watts 
Series (omit the white wire) 13 Watts 9 Watts 

What we have here is very similar to what Goldilocks encountered when she tasted the three bears' porridge. I am presently using the parallel method but I am considering changing it because I am concerned that it will overheat and burn up. [Marc says: I have both blue and red wired together, and it gets way too hot when you turn it all the way ON -- I' m going to go back to using just the red wire like Tom suggests]
Wiring the two sides in series will reduce the Wattage to even less than the series method, which is almost certainly inadequate. Omitting the blue wire is probably just right (was Baby Bear's porridge the one that was just right?).

There is a potential problem with the red-only method, however, that should be mentioned. On the clutch side, the resistive wire is routed so that the side to which the red wire is connected is on one side of the pad and the side to which the blue wire is connected is on the other side of the pad. (On the throttle side, the two elements run side-by-side over the entire pad.) When the pad is attached to the bar on the clutch side, one of the two effective elements will heat the top of the bar, and the other will heat the bottom of the bar.

This is not likely to be a problem in practice, though, because the aluminum handlebar will conduct the heat very quickly across the gap. This probably explains why Marc never mentioned noticing this effect.

All things considered, the method that I recommend is using the red (and white) wires only, omitting the blue wire. To wire the right and left sides in parallel, simply connect the two red wires, one from each side, to one of the two wire terminals of an SAE connector, and then connect the two white wires, one from each side, to the other wire terminal of an SAE connector.

I recommend that you try this first and switch to the parallel method only if you find that uneven heating on the clutch side bothers you.


Using a Relay with the Heat-Troller
The Heat-Troller is an exceptionally well-designed and well-made device. It is an extremely efficient circuit, with an insignificant amount of internal heat dissipation. It is constructed to simplify the installation, with an SAE terminal for the connection to the load and two battery terminals for direct connection to the battery. However, this means that if you forget and leave it turned on, it will probably run your battery down. It is desirable to connect the Heat-Troller to the battery via a relay so that the battery connection is opened when the main switch is off. Radio Shack part number 275-226 is a suitable relay.
Typically, one side of the coil of the auxiliary relay would be connected to any location in the bike's wiring harness that is connected to the battery whenever the main switch is on. For example, a wire to the running lights, or the +12V wire to the headlight relay (that is controlled by the headlight switch) can be used. The FJR1300 offers an even better option, however, which is to connect the coil of the auxiliary relay so that, like the headlights, the Heat-Troller will be connected to the battery only after the engine has been started.

I don't see what's wrong with wiring like dual star says. blue low, white high, red ground, yellow hot line. And I'm using a hi/off/low switch, not the heat troller. i guess that's what this is about.

between ground and high, and ground and low, i get 0 OHMs. this is with the ground for the heater elements disconnected.

Well i just got off the phone with dual star. They have had a few problems recently and are suspecting the heater elements are no good. So they are calling the factory and will get back to me when they figure it out. So lucky me I get to basically do it all over again!!

ugh..I mean YAY! LOL.

Quote from: pantablo on November 13, 2006, 12:44:32 PM
ugh..I mean YAY! LOL.

At least I know the problem now...and it's not me....although it is still MY problem...DAMNIT!

Well it's been a week and no call from dual star. So I called them. All he said is they haven't heard back from the company who makes them yet and that it could be a number of thnigs....but my grips have no resistance so I believe that would mean that it is the heater element itself....since they are supposed to have 7.5 ohms on one side and like 12 ohms on the other I believe. Not sure if I should just wait it out or if I should demand a refund or what. I like theirs because there is no need for a resistor.

Quote from: porsche4786 on November 20, 2006, 11:50:38 AM
Well it's been a week and no call from dual star. So I called them. All he said is they haven't heard back from the company who makes them yet and that it could be a number of thnigs....but my grips have no resistance so I believe that would mean that it is the heater element itself....since they are supposed to have 7.5 ohms on one side and like 12 ohms on the other I believe. Not sure if I should just wait it out or if I should demand a refund or what. I like theirs because there is no need for a resistor.

I got mine from here and sound exactly like what you have.  Only took 2 days from purchase to delivery to KC.  Maybe another option.

All made by the same company, so if I buy it from them, there is still a chance I get a defective heater element.

awesome! nice riding weather comming up, but it's gonna be cold, sure wish i had some heated grips!! 

Well I called dual star back, first call was 2 weeks ago and I never got a call from them on the issue. He said he has spoken with the company who makes them and they said they are not aware of a problem. So I simply said, well, there's a problem with mine. He said it's not usually something that will go bad or be defective, but a guy I talked to last week at the same place said they have had a few people with a problem and they even had a list of the people with problems. He said they are on backorder right now so I guess I'll call up California sport touring and see if they have some in stock and I will buy from them, and theirs are $26 a set, instead of $35 for the same thing. So I guess I will have an extra set comming sometime.