My clutch is beginning to go (slips into neutral, high RPMs while slowly accelerating, jerks when put into gear, jumps out of gear, etc.) and it is time to replace. However, do I have to replace the whole assembly or can I get away with less? Have you ever replaced your clutch and if so what frustrations did you encounter, any heads up you can give, and in the end would it had been better for a shop to do the work? What other GS model year clutch would fit my 1990 GS500EL?

Thanks.

You replace the friction plates, and sometimes the springs.  It's wicked easy.  Go for it.

But first make sure you're adjusted as much as it will go, just to be sure you really need to do the work.

Quote from: Chuck on November 01, 2006, 07:34:03 PM
But first make sure you're adjusted as much as it will go, just to be sure you really need to do the work.

I must be dumb and don't know it or it's late either way I don't understand.    Are you saying it might not be the clutch or that the cable is not adjusted right?  I'm pretty sure it is the clutch as it is not as responsive while accelerating under load. I've never brought the bike over 65 MPH but with 1 down and 5 up with red line being 10 (I think) I would assume the gears would wind out longer.

Thanks. 

Yup, as your clutch plates wear they become thinner, and as a result changes how much you need to deflect the clutch lever to get into the friction zone.  It can get to the point (depending on your initial adjustment) where when the clutch lever is fully released, there is still tension that is holding the clutch somewhat open.  See if putting a little more slack in the cable helps.  This is not often the case, so it probably won't, at which point you are doing a (very) minor repair.

You can buy the right number of OEM friction plates, or an aftermarket clutch kit (I do whichever is cheaper at the moment).  Some people replace the springs every time, some people (like me) check if they're in spec and re-use them.  An OEM clutch kit might come with new springs.  Also, buy a new clutch cover gasket.

If you don't have a Haynes or Clymer, just use http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tech/clutch_replacement/ or http://www.dansmc.com/clutches.htm or one of 1000 other online guides (knowing that they're not exactly for a GS500, but all motorcycle clutches are basically the same)

Just remember when you're removing the pressure plate screws, go around and unscrew them evenly in a criss-cross to avoid creating any nasty forces on the pressure plate.

If that's not enough info, just say so.

Quote from: davidcl on November 01, 2006, 06:59:52 PM
My clutch is beginning to go (slips into neutral, high RPMs while slowly accelerating, jerks when put into gear, jumps out of gear, etc.) and it is time to replace. However, do I have to replace the whole assembly or can I get away with less? Have you ever replaced your clutch and if so what frustrations did you encounter, any heads up you can give, and in the end would it had been better for a shop to do the work? What other GS model year clutch would fit my 1990 GS500EL?

Thanks.

If it is actually jumping out of gear, it is a gearbox issue, not a clutch issue. If you want me to look at it, I live in Berwyn, not far from you.  IM me and I will give you my contact info.

Quote from: D-Day on November 04, 2006, 09:01:21 AM
If it is actually jumping out of gear, it is a gearbox issue, not a clutch issue. If you want me to look at it, I live in Berwyn, not far from you.  IM me and I will give you my contact info.

Thanks for the offer but you're about 2 hours from me, however, I'll look into the gearbox as well.

Thanks.

you only need to pull one side cover to change clutch plates, but to check the gearbox you need to split the cases (gear dogs and shift forks).   im wondering if you dont have a bad case of missadjusted cable & thin plates with a touch of LLT syndrom (anyone remember that one?)

Quote from: davidcl on November 04, 2006, 10:11:26 AM

Quote from: D-Day on November 04, 2006, 09:01:21 AM
If it is actually jumping out of gear, it is a gearbox issue, not a clutch issue. If you want me to look at it, I live in Berwyn, not far from you.  IM me and I will give you my contact info.

Thanks for the offer but you're about 2 hours from me, however, I'll look into the gearbox as well.

Thanks.

Well, you aren't in Chicago then.  Berwyn is 10 minutes from downtown Chitown.

On that part fiche' it seems like I would need numbers 8 (six of them it looks like), 7, and possibly 10 (the springs). Haven't seen any aftermarket clutches or an OEM clutch (rebuild?) kit. I have seen new plates and a salvaged clutch assembly on the bay. Getting a repair manual right now. Looking at the books or CD (anyone bought one of those?). From there I will look at the diagnostic section and see what else I may need to look into such as the gearbox that was mentioned. However, from my limited knowledge it would seem that the bike would have a hard time going forward (which it does not) say there was something wrong with the gear box. All in all I could pay for my local bike shop diagnose what is wrong which is always the hardest part with something mechanical.

Thanks.   

So all of my parts have come in and I've got my Loctite Blue handy. However, I was reading over the instructions that came with the fiber plates and it says that I must soak them in oil for FIVE HOURS? I don't mind waiting that long, I guess, for perfection but I might be too drunk to finish after that long, j/k.  Anyway, the clymer manual says nothing of this so I'm wondering do I have to a) soak at all or b) soak for FIVER HOURS?

Thanks. 

Soak em soak soak em! You have a wet clutch, soaked in oil. If the dry plates are put under load the may stick together, that would be bad. Soak em some good clean oil.. At least a couple hours.

5 Hours??? is that all?.....Things have progressed. The last time I changed a disc-set the instructions said soak in oil for a minimum of 24hours. Dont be too dissapointed if the problem is still there after replacing the corks. Jumping out of gear is not a problem thats usually associated with a worn clutch, weak detent springs, wear in the selecter mechanism, or wear in the selecter drum/forks or drive dogs are usually the problem.

Why not just Install them and Pour oil in the Motor? Let it set for a while and Turn the Motor Over every once in a while and Work the Clutch Lever a few times. :dunno_white:the Whole Clutch is Going to be Bathed in Oil after it's Installed.

Quote from: Jughead on November 25, 2006, 04:04:27 PM
Why not just Install them and Pour oil in the Motor? Let it set for a while and Turn the Motor Over every once in a while and Work the Clutch Lever a few times. :dunno_white:the Whole Clutch is Going to be Bathed in Oil after it's Installed.

The clutch plates are pressed together when the clutch lever is not pulled, so the plates will not be soaking up the oil.  If the clutch plates are not properly prepped, the clutch plates can glaze and then they will slip for the life of the clutch. 

 If its coming back out gear about as soon as you shift sometimes it could be the lazy toe, but when I had my old 92' just as soon as I would let off the throttle to shift up to the next gear it would drop its self out of gear right before I'd be going to up shift, so I usually ended up shifting right back into the same gear, I had just over 100,000 miles on that bike so I 'm sure it was worn out gears and dogs.
(Weather permiting) Once you get that new clutch put in find a nice quiet street or big empty parking lot would be better and cruise in second gear(about 3,000 RPM) and roll on the throttle to about 7-8,000 RPM's and then slowly let off and let the engine slow you down, and then roll on it again. Try that a bunch of times in second gear and third gear if possible and see if it stays in gear, please be careful and don't focus on your tach. If it comes out of gear that's usually a sure sign of worn gears and/or dogs. This was something I had read here over a year ago, so you might want to search for that Post if you need some more info.

P.S. When I did this on my old bike it did come out of gear about every 5th or 6th time. So again be carefull.

i havent looked into the clutch plates on a gs500 and i hope i never have to. but i had the same problem with my 1975 Yamaha dt175 (which is for sale in San Luis Obispo, CA) and all i did was compress the clutch springs with washers so it would put more pressure on the plates. it worked pretty good and dident cost anything.

I don't understand how the clutch works 

There are the serrated rings, pressed together... but then what?

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/clutch.htm

Thanks NGFL!  I've had people explain clutches to me before (and have had people replace a few for me too ), but, being a visual person, never fully understood them until looking at that website. 

Chilly

genius... almost mind-boggling