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Bar Ends (revisited)

Started by RedShift, November 28, 2006, 06:19:48 PM

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RedShift

Be kind and don't flame me.  This may be trivial to some but then again this topic may be a mystery to others, and they are whom I'm posting this message for.
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I had a three unfortunate drops of my GS500 in the four years I've had'er.  The last learning experience made a quarter-moon mark on the right side.  Had a hankering to make my bar ends look brand new again, so I went about removing them -- without appropriate research I should add.

Ended up unsrewing the bolt.  DON'T DO THIS.  All you need to do is loosen the screw/bolt, then roll the bar end assembly out with steady motion.  It should eventually come out -- don't pull too hard.  (If you have to, spray some WD-40 between the Bar End Weight and the handle bar.)

What does this look like when removed?  Here's a peek:



The weight surrounds the phillips-headed bolt.  Next to it is a 12mm nut-washer, though threaded, acts as a spacer between the bar end weight and moves freely -- pushed against the rubber grommet.  Sticky and compressible, the grommet is what makes the bar end stay put.  It does this because the 10mm nut-washer is pulled into the far end and squeezes the grommet.

The bar end on the right is assembled and ready to go in.  It looks mangled and worn (repeated turns to retighten), but it still has a lot of life left in'er.

In they went.  Aligned and tight, here's one-half of the final result:



So, to close I have two things to share:

  • Do some research before tackling even the most trivial repair project.  Being prepared is never a wasted effort.  You are either vindicated or informed.  Post a question on this form, or better yet, use the SEARCH feature and you'll probably scoop up an answer.

  • Don't drop your bike.  :cry:  It is more stable to get on it rather than push it from the side.  If you've got to push it, lean it towards you - never away.  (Once she starts falling away from you it's a good as dropped.)  And always look where you're going especially when backing up.  (Not that I'm saying I did these things.)
Thanks for listening...  :)
2001 GS500E, stock except for SV650 Flyscreen, Case Guards, Headlight Modulator, PIAA Super White bulb & 17-Tooth Front Sprocket, BLUE, RED and GREEN LED Instrument and Dash Lights

davidcl

So these really work as to avoiding side damage? I've thought about buying them. I've dropped my bike three times and all on the same side. Each time I scratch up the Suzuki emblem cover and this last time I broke the turn signal (pick up two brand new ones for 5 bucks :)). What's nice is the tank has yet to be dented. The bar ends seem like they would work only if the handle bars were held straight so the impact would be first with the handle bars. However, if the handles bar are turned in (as I've noticed dropping it three times I turn them before I drop) it would be useless. Also, has anyone used frame and swingarm sliders? I've also looked at getting case guards too.

Thanks for the information.

scratch

Depending on what bars you have, or get, will determine wheather or not the barends will protect the tank/frame.  Stock bars have a 7 1/2 inch sweep, or pullback.  The further back, the less protection.  Most aftermarket bars are 6 1/2" sweep.  The barends do help protect, by making the bar longer.

I'm still thinking of adapting a pair of those rubber knee protector/frameguards from a Buell.

Another thing to remember is engine guards may actually make it easier to dent your tank, by moving the balance/pivot point lower on the bike; so that when it does fall over the engine will potentially be higher when the bike is layed over.
The motorcycle is no longer the hobby, the skill has become the hobby.

Power does not compare to skill.  What good is power without the skill to use it?

QuoteOriginally posted by Wintermute on BayAreaRidersForum.com
good judgement trumps good skills every time.

starwalt

This is true for the compressed plug bar ends.

Older models have a welded insert that the retention screw threads into.

FYI.  (Hey mods - FAQ this)
-=Doug......   IT ≠ IQ.

God save us from LED turn signal mods!

Get an Ebay GS value  HERE.

1990 GS running, 1990 GS work-in-progress, 1990 basket case.
The trend here is entropy

Flywheel

Sorry about the thread-jack, but seeing your photo reminded me to ask these questions: where do I obtain replacement reflectors for the forks and tail? Are they specific to the GS?
gs500 K2 (blue/silver) + Pirelli Sport Demon tires, Pro 6 stainless brake lines (front/rear), Racetech .85 kg/mm fork springs, 15w Motul fork oil, Kat 600 rear shock, K+N drop in air filter, Kisan PathBlazer/Tailblazer modulators, Oxford heated grips and a Givi A240 flyscreen.

ixolas

Ya I've dropped mine and busted one up but I'm buying a new set off ebay for a few bucks.. but mainly I wanted to give you a pointer about pushing or pulling your bike.  Since I have to back it into my garage, and its uphill I've learned how to do it pretty well.  I find its best to crouch down a little and lean the bike against you with as much weight as you can handle. putting your hip in the seat divot where your inner thigh goes and keeping your shoulders straight ahead.  Put up the kick stand, since it may trip you up and there ya go.  Hope that helps ya.

dgyver

Quote from: Flywheel on November 28, 2006, 07:48:28 PM
Sorry about the thread-jack, but seeing your photo reminded me to ask these questions: where do I obtain replacement reflectors for the forks and tail? Are they specific to the GS?

I have a box full of reflectors, just not too sure which ones fit the GS.
Common sense in not very common.

ecpreston

Quote from: RedShift on November 28, 2006, 06:19:48 PM
This may be trivial to some but then again this topic may be a mystery to others, and they are whom I'm posting this message for.

They were a mystery to me! Just got my first bike, clearly at least on one of mine, the gold nut is missing or down inside the bar, so there's nothing to tighten it up. It's really loose, I unscrew it and am thinking, WTF, this just screws into rubber? And is this other nut that isn't even the right size supposed to be there? Thanks to your pics I now see what's supposed to be going on in there. I'll pull that rubber out and see if I can repair the assembly.  :cheers: :thumb:

ben2go

Yea I have factory welded insets in my bars so no rubbers for me.They bolt directly on.
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